Hardwired induction hob or 13 amp plug?
Discussion
I’m shopping for an induction hob and I noticed you can get identical models, one with a 13 amp plug and the other hardwired.
The three pin plug limits the maximum power output to 3.7 kW, in practical terms you can only use one zone on full power at a time, two zones at 2/3rd power, or all four at about 25%.
The alternative is a hardwired unit which draws 7.4 kW, which let’s you use more power on all zones at the same time, but I’ve no idea if the wiring in my mid 90s house supports this.
Also I’m questioning the need to have more than two zones on simultaneously on anything more than 2/3rds power.
What are people’s suggestions? I’m coming from gas, so in any case it’ll be a big change and learning curve for me.
The three pin plug limits the maximum power output to 3.7 kW, in practical terms you can only use one zone on full power at a time, two zones at 2/3rd power, or all four at about 25%.
The alternative is a hardwired unit which draws 7.4 kW, which let’s you use more power on all zones at the same time, but I’ve no idea if the wiring in my mid 90s house supports this.
Also I’m questioning the need to have more than two zones on simultaneously on anything more than 2/3rds power.
What are people’s suggestions? I’m coming from gas, so in any case it’ll be a big change and learning curve for me.
Audis5b9 said:
See the gas v induction thread that was on here not long ago... lots of thoughts / experience shared about 13A induction.
Thanks! I had no idea it was such a debated topic.There is definitely a lot of hate for the 13A, from what I see.
Ken_Code said:
Your wiring (unless damaged or done wrong) should easily be able to accommodate the hard-wired one.
If that's true for most houses, why would anyone want a 13-amp model? Just to save on an electrician's fee?Ken_Code said:
SkinnyPete said:
If that's true for most houses, why would anyone want a 13-amp model? Just to save on an electrician's fee?
I suppose it gives you the option of sticking it in an island, or away from the hard wiring point without needing to have any wiring work done.Our Nef hob was supplied with two cables one for 13A the other for a much higher Amperage (can't remember the figure) If the higher Amp (with it's many benefits) is chosen there's a couple of straight 'jumpers' ro be used in the input supply box. As many have said in the other thread "only use 13 Amp as a last resort".
Ken_Code said:
Your wiring (unless damaged or done wrong) should easily be able to accommodate the hard-wired one.
I’m not sure it’s as simple as that, I believe that a proper one requires a 32amp feed with 6mm cable.My experience with a 13amp induction hob is that they are fine unless you are cooking a big meal and need 3 or 4 pans on the go.
ChrisNic said:
I’m not sure it’s as simple as that, I believe that a proper one requires a 32amp feed with 6mm cable.
My experience with a 13amp induction hob is that they are fine unless you are cooking a big meal and need 3 or 4 pans on the go.
Which is what the oven feed ought to be. If it’s not then it’s not been done right.My experience with a 13amp induction hob is that they are fine unless you are cooking a big meal and need 3 or 4 pans on the go.
If the OP’s not sure it should be properly checked.
Audis5b9 said:
The 13A ones are used on boats and motorhomes quite regularly.
It's a great way to flatten a 12V battery! IMHO they really only work in boats etc if they're on shore power - which means you have to be in the marina to use it, or fire up a generator. However they're being increasingly fitted because 'gas is dangerous' and 'electricity is green'.SkinnyPete said:
If that's true for most houses, why would anyone want a 13-amp model? Just to save on an electrician's fee?
It's more than just the fee.You'd need to run a new cable from the consumer unit (fuse box) - and in some house layouts, that can be a significant undertaking.
If the consumer unit has spare slots, then a good start, otherwise may mean a new consumer unit on top.
It's the right way to go though, at some point you'll hate yourself for being constrained by 13A.
Ken_Code said:
ChrisNic said:
I’m not sure it’s as simple as that, I believe that a proper one requires a 32amp feed with 6mm cable.
My experience with a 13amp induction hob is that they are fine unless you are cooking a big meal and need 3 or 4 pans on the go.
Which is what the oven feed ought to be. If it’s not then it’s not been done right.My experience with a 13amp induction hob is that they are fine unless you are cooking a big meal and need 3 or 4 pans on the go.
If the OP’s not sure it should be properly checked.
The cable coming out of the wall where the oven and old gas hob plugs into is definitely thicker to my eyes than the stuff you see behind light switches and 3 pin plug sockets.
The electrician is coming next week so I'll know for sure then, but it's good to have an idea beforehand.
Simpo Two said:
Audis5b9 said:
The 13A ones are used on boats and motorhomes quite regularly.
It's a great way to flatten a 12V battery! IMHO they really only work in boats etc if they're on shore power - which means you have to be in the marina to use it, or fire up a generator. However they're being increasingly fitted because 'gas is dangerous' and 'electricity is green'.Regbuser said:
From the dist brd picture, your B32 amp RCBO is for your oven? With no spare ways for a separate circuit for an induction hob that may require another 32A protective device and appropriately sized cable. So you may be limited to a 13A plug top item.
Thanks.A new cable can be channelled into the wall easily enough, but whats the going rate for fitting a new consumer unit?
SkinnyPete said:
Regbuser said:
From the dist brd picture, your B32 amp RCBO is for your oven? With no spare ways for a separate circuit for an induction hob that may require another 32A protective device and appropriately sized cable. So you may be limited to a 13A plug top item.
Thanks.A new cable can be channelled into the wall easily enough, but whats the going rate for fitting a new consumer unit?
But, it requires the attendance of a qualified electrician to assess the characteristics of the installation and advise the correct and safe requirements for any additions.
thread resurrection
re fitting the kitchen , the original cooker and hob are hard wired to a separate 45A 2-GANG DP COOKER SWITCH which also has & 13A DP Switched socket. ( 6mm twin and earth )
The replacement cooker comes with 2.5mm twin and earth , the replacement induction hob is on a 13 amp plug . The integrated built in kitchen unit also has space for a built in Microwave .
The new oven hard wired to the 45 A switch , the Hob plugged into the 13 A switched socket , how best to connect the microwave on the same ring circuit ,
thanks
re fitting the kitchen , the original cooker and hob are hard wired to a separate 45A 2-GANG DP COOKER SWITCH which also has & 13A DP Switched socket. ( 6mm twin and earth )
The replacement cooker comes with 2.5mm twin and earth , the replacement induction hob is on a 13 amp plug . The integrated built in kitchen unit also has space for a built in Microwave .
The new oven hard wired to the 45 A switch , the Hob plugged into the 13 A switched socket , how best to connect the microwave on the same ring circuit ,
thanks
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