Cutting Out 'Worktop' Keeping Offcut To Infill Sink
Cutting Out 'Worktop' Keeping Offcut To Infill Sink
Author
Discussion

KTMsm

Original Poster:

28,977 posts

279 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
I'm building a camper and want an Oak 'worktop'

This may be 15-25mm thick (re purposing an old table)

I need to cut out the undermount sink cleanly as I want to use the offcut over the sink as worktop space is minimal (I'll cut the hole to show the lip of the sink, to hold the infill)

Are there any other options than a careful jigsaw and a lot of sanding ?

I thought about a router but a quick google shows the thinnest one available is 6mm which is a too big

Road2Ruin

5,955 posts

232 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
KTMsm said:
I'm building a camper and want an Oak 'worktop'

This may be 15-25mm thick (re purposing an old table)

I need to cut out the undermount sink cleanly as I want to use the offcut over the sink as worktop space is minimal (I'll cut the hole to show the lip of the sink, to hold the infill)

Are there any other options than a careful jigsaw and a lot of sanding ?

I thought about a router but a quick google shows the thinnest one available is 6mm which is a too big
I doubt it will ever look 'tidy' no matter how careful you are. Go for the jigsaw, sand, and then I would fit some kind of 'gasket' to make it snug and tidy it up. You could probably get a length of rubber or silicone, which you can cut, and then stick it to the infill part.

Simpo Two

89,289 posts

281 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
My boat has the same idea, a round sink under a 'corian' worktop. The edges are angled so the infill sits flush in the hole, and has a finger hole in the middle so you can lift it out. They must have used a separate piece for the infill.

KTMsm

Original Poster:

28,977 posts

279 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
As it's grained I have to use the offcut

I wouldn't use a gasket - it's a budget build but there are limits

Maybe cut it with a jigsaw and then run a router around both ?

Road2Ruin

5,955 posts

232 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
KTMsm said:
As it's grained I have to use the offcut

I wouldn't use a gasket - it's a budget build but there are limits

Maybe cut it with a jigsaw and then run a router around both ?
It doesn't matter how little you cut off and how smooth you sand it, it's going to be loose. Thet will also be a lip, which will collect debris and annoy you. Maybe go for a bit of alloy or stainless as an edge piece, if you don't fancy rubber.

TooLateForAName

4,888 posts

200 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
could you get someone to cut it with a cnc lasercutter?

paulwirral

3,619 posts

151 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
Use a circular skil saw to cut the straight lines and a jigsaw to do the corners, very slowly and carefully on the corners .
If you use a jigsaw for all the cut it will make a mess , run off all over especially the vertical cut through the wood .

Skyedriver

20,688 posts

298 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
paulwirral said:
run off all over especially the vertical cut through the wood .
I will second that.

thepritch

1,564 posts

181 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
As it’s a budget build, using offcuts / old tables for a worktop may be the only option to you.

But I’d personally avoid using oak for a kitchen worktop. Water reacts with the wood and over time black lines / stains appear. Others may be able to suggest how best to protect the wood to prevent this, or ways to remove them, but I never found a solution and it spoiled our worktop after only a couple of years.

Blakeatron

2,552 posts

189 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
If you want a really tight fit then your option is to fully cut the square out via slicing the top and then reglue the ‘frame’ back together - this way you could have zero gap.

Or if you are careful with a plunge saw and track you could get a 2mm kerf and just hand saw the corners

ferret50

2,296 posts

25 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
MDF base, with Formica glued on top?

But completely seal the MDF!

This would allow a close fit 'lid' with a central hole as Simpo suggests.


KTMsm

Original Poster:

28,977 posts

279 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
It's not a proper (thick) worktop so I'm hoping blade drift will be minimal

I'll probably only use it a few weeks a year, so I'm not too worried about water damage although I am worried enough about damp that I won't be using MDF or chipboard anywhere


ferret50

2,296 posts

25 months

Saturday 1st February
quotequote all
Make sure you cover all bare metal with a warm surface to limit condensation.

I have found that cab windows are the most difficult to deal with, I have the fob control for my diesel heater clipped very close to my bunk!

We travelled from N Norfolk to the Algarve just last week, and despite decent levels of insulation, cab windows were running with water each morning.



OutInTheShed

11,651 posts

42 months

Sunday 2nd February
quotequote all
You want to be really careful with weight in a campervan.

One way to make the hole cutting easier is to rout around underneath, so you end up doing the actual cut through a couple of mm of wood.

DonkeyApple

63,174 posts

185 months

Sunday 2nd February
quotequote all
KTMsm said:
I'm building a camper and want an Oak 'worktop'

This may be 15-25mm thick (re purposing an old table)

I need to cut out the undermount sink cleanly as I want to use the offcut over the sink as worktop space is minimal (I'll cut the hole to show the lip of the sink, to hold the infill)

Are there any other options than a careful jigsaw and a lot of sanding ?

I thought about a router but a quick google shows the thinnest one available is 6mm which is a too big
A router is going to give the cleanest finish when following a template. The gap is then easily filled using a plastic trim around both the edges.

Simon_GH

777 posts

96 months

Sunday 2nd February
quotequote all
You could glue one of those worktop protectors to the top of the cutout so you can slot it in and out securely. I would give you useable work space e but clearly won’t be completely level.

Fatboy

8,224 posts

288 months

Sunday 2nd February
quotequote all
Cut the hole with a router, then glue on a bit of contrasting wood strip to the cut-out and trim it down to a snug fit with the router - you'll not be able to hide the joint, but a bit of mahogany/iroko etc. round the edges will look fine as it's deliberate...