Fill and redril awkward hole

[Duke Caboom]

Our front door shares a frame with a window so the total length under the lintel is about 1500mm wide.

There is a single concrete screw going up into the lintel in the middle. Over the years the hole in the lintel has enlarged to the extent that the screw fell out. The frame therefore moves quite a way every time the door is opened or closed.

I'm looking for a product with a narrow enough and long enough nozel to squirt through the screw hole in the frame and fill the hole in the lintel so it can be redrilled and a new screw fitted.

Any suggestions? Or alternative strategies?

Thanks

[fat80b]

Two part R-KEM resin from Screwfix

Fill the hole and shove the screw back in and it’ll hold forever

[sherman]

Polyester resin ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soudafix-P300-ST-Polyeste...

[Rough101]

Chem fix of whatever type

[smifffymoto]

In the old days we just hammered a wooden peg in and cut it flush.

All this resin and stuff is a messy solution to a simple problem.

[Huzzah]

Couple of new fixings rather than just one.

https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-torx-frame-fix...

[megaphone]

Drill it out and use a Rawlplug.

[Duke Caboom]

Thanks for all that replies. Just to be clear- I can't access the hole directly, unless I dismantled or removed the door / window frame.

[megaphone]

Duke Caboom said:

Thanks for all that replies. Just to be clear- I can't access the hole directly, unless I dismantled or removed the door / window frame.

Drill straight up through the frame, that's how it was done in the first place. Problem with drilling a lintel is you may hit a steel reinforcement bar.

Edited by megaphone on Tuesday 11th February 08:14

[The Gauge]

If drilling up through the frame and into the lintel, could there still be the plug left in the hole that will get chewed up by the drill bit? If so maybe it would be better to ignore the current failed fixing and drill a new hole few inches away from it, or maybe even drill 2 or 3 holes spread out?

I'm guessing that due to there being only one fixing, over the years as the door has opened and closed it has caused this fixing to weaken, sounds like that stress needs to be spread out amongst a few other fixings so the same doesn't happen again?

[Baldchap]

An easy fix is to remove the screw, squirt in some Mitre Bond activation spray and bash in as many Mitre Bond covered cocktail sticks as you can. Cut them off flush.

Five minutes later reinsert the now very tight screw.

[wolfracesonic]

You say concrete screw, I’m guessing you mean something like this…



…so it probably has a 8mm clearance hole with a 6mm hole in the lintel. Resin would be good but most of the mixing nozzles I’ve used with it are bigger than 8mm let alone 6, plus you can’t actually see where the resin ends up. I’d do as suggested as above on use a frame fixing like this…



If you have a drill, I’d enlarge the hole in the lintel to 8mm to receive an 8mm fixing, if you don’t you can get 6mm ones. If you do get the drill out and are feeling confident, another couple of fixings wouldn’t hurt.

[Fatboy]

If it's not ridiculously loose, you could unscrew the concrete screw, squirt some polyurethane glue into the hole, cover the screw with polyurethane glue and screw it back in - the polyurethane glue will expand as it dries, filling the gap, and also force it's way between the frame and lintel and should give you a solid fixing again...

[Len Clifton]

I wouldn’t bother with glue, it won’t last. As above, use a proper frame fixing plug instead.

[wolfracesonic]

^ I think the issue is getting a nozzle small enough but long enough to go through 70mm or so of door frame and into the hole in the lintel.

[Duke Caboom]

Thanks for all replies. Yes, issue with any form of gunk is going to be a thin enough, long enough nozel combined with not being able to see what I'm doing.

So I'll go for 2 new holes, with some form of narrow plug.

Thanks