Adding some loft lighting, help with wood... BS spec issues
Discussion
My electrician has said he can come in the next few days now. I was going to do the loft lighting myself but now he's offered while also here doing other tasks I thought why not.
But my loft has no simple way to attach battens that'll point straight down.
Current look of the roof trusses.

Thinking of doing this.


Using a short bit of 50mm x 25mm batten, and drilling pilot holes and 4mm shank wood screws, attaching them to every other roof truss apex. These are 2ft centres.
Then using 50mm x 25mm batten along the length of the roof apex. Then the LED battens and wiring can run along this route.
I just went to the merchants and bought what I assumed was BS roof battens so I can get on with prepping it, asking initially for the JB Red which they didn't sell.
But it seems there is "BS" and BS5543. Or what now seems to be Type-A BS, and BS5543.
I'm not sure what BS I've actually bought, and how it differs from BS5543 with regard to longevity in a roof space.
In any case, what I've got is clearly just the garden variety copper(?) pressure treated type?

I note BS5543 has a 60yr expected lifespan. Does generic pressure treated Type-A "BS" lath/batten have that type of expected lifespan?
Also it looks like BS5543 is better quality wood, kiln dried, and also treated (not sure if the treatment is better), so it's technically a better product.
Am I ok to use this? It cost about as much as proper BS5543 battens for 10x 3.6m.
Or should I send it back and get something more suitable?
The priority here is obviously longevity in the loft space, and that it's not going to act as an early failure point for pest infestation, mold growth etc, as it'll be pinned up against the apex of almost all my roof trusses!
But my loft has no simple way to attach battens that'll point straight down.
Current look of the roof trusses.
Thinking of doing this.
Using a short bit of 50mm x 25mm batten, and drilling pilot holes and 4mm shank wood screws, attaching them to every other roof truss apex. These are 2ft centres.
Then using 50mm x 25mm batten along the length of the roof apex. Then the LED battens and wiring can run along this route.
I just went to the merchants and bought what I assumed was BS roof battens so I can get on with prepping it, asking initially for the JB Red which they didn't sell.
But it seems there is "BS" and BS5543. Or what now seems to be Type-A BS, and BS5543.
I'm not sure what BS I've actually bought, and how it differs from BS5543 with regard to longevity in a roof space.
In any case, what I've got is clearly just the garden variety copper(?) pressure treated type?
I note BS5543 has a 60yr expected lifespan. Does generic pressure treated Type-A "BS" lath/batten have that type of expected lifespan?
Also it looks like BS5543 is better quality wood, kiln dried, and also treated (not sure if the treatment is better), so it's technically a better product.
Am I ok to use this? It cost about as much as proper BS5543 battens for 10x 3.6m.
Or should I send it back and get something more suitable?
The priority here is obviously longevity in the loft space, and that it's not going to act as an early failure point for pest infestation, mold growth etc, as it'll be pinned up against the apex of almost all my roof trusses!
Watcher of the skies said:
I think you're over thinking this a bit... 
+1 plenty of Victorian roofs with untreated timbers that are fine.
The life expectancy is a bit odd. Do you expect your house to collapse after 60 years?
Having said that, given that you can get the stuff that you are happy with for no financial penalty why not do that? It's your house and you can remove a worry of yours easily.
Ok perhaps I’m over thinking it then.
I’m just not sure if ‘green’ and ‘wet’ timbers are a good idea in a loft or not, especially when bound to rafters, due to dimensional stability considerations?! (In practice though it’s all moving in the direction that shouldn’t matter)
On the bracing, yeah there are big diagonals (look like original pine T&G floorboards)
The longitudinal ones are a bit toss though.
Easy enough to go down and update those once I have some nice lighting
I’ll try a few merchants and try get some bs5543 stuff then.
It was only £35 ish for this batch, so I’ll just repurpose for something else if they won’t swap it on delivery.
Wrt chains etc, I did consider that but still gonna need a route for wiring support etc.
Having a nice linear run makes sense for lots of reasons.
I’m just not sure if ‘green’ and ‘wet’ timbers are a good idea in a loft or not, especially when bound to rafters, due to dimensional stability considerations?! (In practice though it’s all moving in the direction that shouldn’t matter)
On the bracing, yeah there are big diagonals (look like original pine T&G floorboards)
The longitudinal ones are a bit toss though.
Easy enough to go down and update those once I have some nice lighting

I’ll try a few merchants and try get some bs5543 stuff then.
It was only £35 ish for this batch, so I’ll just repurpose for something else if they won’t swap it on delivery.
Wrt chains etc, I did consider that but still gonna need a route for wiring support etc.
Having a nice linear run makes sense for lots of reasons.
TA14 said:
The life expectancy is a bit odd. Do you expect your house to collapse after 60 years?
Having said that, given that you can get the stuff that you are happy with for no financial penalty why not do that? It's your house and you can remove a worry of yours easily
The plan is to treat all the existing timbers now (I’m 45 yrs old) and fingers crossed it’ll get me through till I’m no longer needing a roof over my head Having said that, given that you can get the stuff that you are happy with for no financial penalty why not do that? It's your house and you can remove a worry of yours easily

The last thing I want is to be up there in my 60s arsing around with these battens because they’re not a good mix with a loft environment.
Of course this is just sensible planning. I appreciate the reality might be quite different to expectations.
But yes, will just try get the better quality material as it’s a dead certainty it’ll be happiest for intended purpose.
Yeah the intention is to get it all nicely lit then work around making good, including some decent eaves vents so I can get insulation properly tucked in but retain airflow.
Currently they’re a mixed bag but as far as I can tell from my humidity and temp sensors and observations it’s breathing nicely.
But always good to belt and braces as I can tell it’s been faffed with in places.
Currently they’re a mixed bag but as far as I can tell from my humidity and temp sensors and observations it’s breathing nicely.
But always good to belt and braces as I can tell it’s been faffed with in places.
Bucket123 said:
I would be sorting out the moisture issue that you think is going to cause all the wood in your loft to go mouldy first.
Over an expected 30yr+ timescale that logic fails.Which is why we have bs5543 being revised and becoming more stringent over time, to make sure roof spaces stay dry and waterproof over time.
I would sort out issues, but I can’t remain permanently vigilant, nor do I want to be.
I’m happier to simply try do the best I can reasonably do when I do a job.
fourstardan said:
Watcher of the skies said:
I think you're over thinking this a bit... 
Lights will come on soon I think!
Just make a block of wood thats cut into a triangle...
I go in my loft about twice a year to get suitcases lol
If only shades for lamps had been invented! We could call them 'lamp shades'... nah, it'll never catch on

Simpo Two said:
fourstardan said:
Watcher of the skies said:
I think you're over thinking this a bit... 
Lights will come on soon I think!
Just make a block of wood thats cut into a triangle...
I go in my loft about twice a year to get suitcases lol
If only shades for lamps had been invented! We could call them 'lamp shades'... nah, it'll never catch on

My roof is 25deg pitch so an LED batten with a 120deg angle should be good. With a batten every 4m or so I should get nice even lighting up there for doing all the jobs planned.
I also need my wife or daughter to be happy to use the loft for storage as I'll be up there every other day otherwise, so having anything that allays concerns about bogeymen, monsters, spiders, etc, is a must.
Plus good quality lighting helps me remain vigiliant with weekly checks for leaks, mold, and infestations.
TA14 said:
+1 plenty of Victorian roofs with untreated timbers that are fine.
The life expectancy is a bit odd. Do you expect your house to collapse after 60 years?
Having said that, given that you can get the stuff that you are happy with for no financial penalty why not do that? It's your house and you can remove a worry of yours easily.
Yeah ssh don’t tell my 1930s roof will you!The life expectancy is a bit odd. Do you expect your house to collapse after 60 years?
Having said that, given that you can get the stuff that you are happy with for no financial penalty why not do that? It's your house and you can remove a worry of yours easily.
Mr Whippy said:
Sorry I should have said it'll be LED batten lights so it's a fat soft light, not 60w incandescent bulbs.
My roof is 25deg pitch so an LED batten with a 120deg angle should be good. With a batten every 4m or so I should get nice even lighting up there for doing all the jobs planned.
That will be much better than what you have, yes. Be careful with how many lumens you get; I was a member of a club that swapped fluorescents for LEDs and when they were all on it was like walking into the sun.My roof is 25deg pitch so an LED batten with a 120deg angle should be good. With a batten every 4m or so I should get nice even lighting up there for doing all the jobs planned.
As for wood, it's wood. Lasts for longer than you will, don't worry about it.
If you family are that worried about bogeymen and monsters, hire a counsellor... and don't mention the phrogger

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