Ultra sonic cleaner
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RZ1

Original Poster:

4,476 posts

228 months

Saturday 3rd January
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Over the past year I’ve ended up as the unofficial “small engine” fixer for friends, family and neighbours

Mostly:
2 stroke petrol kit (strimmers, hedge trimmers, small lawnmowers)
Carb clean, fuel line/filter swaps, plug checks
The usual “it ran last summer…” situations

I’m now looking to level up my setup by investing in an ultrasonic parts cleaner to do a proper job on carburettors and small engine parts (without the endless scrubbing).

I’d love recommendations from anyone who’s already doing this:
What tank size is the sweet spot (6L / 10L / bigger)?
Any brands/models you rate for reliability?
What cleaning solutions/chemicals work best (and are safe on aluminium)?
Any do’s/don’ts you learned the hard way?

Longer term, I’m also considering turning this into a small side hustle / hobby not just 2 stroke:
• 4stroke mowers
• Small engines in general (mini motos, quads, generators, etc.)

clockworks

7,078 posts

167 months

Sunday 4th January
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I use ultrasonics primarily for cleaning clock parts, but also for airbrushes, electric motors, watch bracelets, etc.

My main tank is 6 litres (actually holds just under 5 litres at the "max" level), plus a smaller one - about one litre.

My first tank, bought nearly 30 years ago, was a 3 litre made by Elma. Very expensive, but still works. Seems to be down on power though - can't punch holes in tin foil.

About 5 years ago I bought a couple of 6 litre tanks from eBay sellers. One had an English supplier's name on it, the other was a straight Chinese "GT Sonic" at half the price (around £60). Identical units, with different control labels.
If buying again, I'd just go for the Chinese machine.

I use ammoniated clock cleaning fluid in the main tank. Great for brass and steel, but can discolour nickel plating and die-cast alloys.

The small tank is just filled with water. I put small parts in glass jars with a suitable cleaning fluid - acetone, thinners, isopropyl, soapy water - and put the jar in the tank.

Tank shape is something to consider, as well as volume. Most sizes are available in "tall and skinny" and "short and wide".

Get one with a drain valve (much easier to empty) and a heater (degreasing works much better at 50 degrees).
A basket is essential, as is a lid if you are using a chemical cleaner.

jfdi

1,300 posts

197 months

Sunday 4th January
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As mentioned above unless you're buying a very expensive long running brand they'll all be the same Chinese units with a different badge. I've got a 30 litre unit which is great in that it fits just about anything in but the drawback is filling it. If I'm cleaning small parts I'll fill the tank with cold water and place the part in a jar or tub filled with hot water and cleaner. 90% of the time a much smaller unit would be perfectly fine as I mainly use it for push bike parts but still glad I went big on the occasions I want to stick brake calipers from the car in it.

clockworks

7,078 posts

167 months

Sunday 4th January
quotequote all
jfdi said:
As mentioned above unless you're buying a very expensive long running brand they'll all be the same Chinese units with a different badge. I've got a 30 litre unit which is great in that it fits just about anything in but the drawback is filling it. If I'm cleaning small parts I'll fill the tank with cold water and place the part in a jar or tub filled with hot water and cleaner. 90% of the time a much smaller unit would be perfectly fine as I mainly use it for push bike parts but still glad I went big on the occasions I want to stick brake calipers from the car in it.
The cost of filling is one reason I stuck with a 6 litre tank.

The cleaning fluid I use (Horolene) now costs about £150 for a 5 litre can. Gets diluted with 7 parts of water, so a 30 litre tank would cost around £100 to fill.


RZ1

Original Poster:

4,476 posts

228 months

Sunday 4th January
quotequote all
My thinking is a smaller 6l type size as I’m mostly going to be cleaning smaller carb parts.

jfdi

1,300 posts

197 months

Sunday 4th January
quotequote all
clockworks said:
The cost of filling is one reason I stuck with a 6 litre tank.

The cleaning fluid I use (Horolene) now costs about £150 for a 5 litre can. Gets diluted with 7 parts of water, so a 30 litre tank would cost around £100 to fill.
Hence full the tank with plain water, put the part in a jar with the diluted cleaner.

FlyVintage

324 posts

13 months

Sunday 4th January
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I have also have a 6ltr cleaner; it has a heater and drain valve. Model 1860QTD. I sized the purchase specifically for carburettors and have had 4 barrel Holley, Carter and Weber DCOE in it without issue.

For cleaning fluid I just use water and a good splosh of Surfex HD. 40 minutes at 50c and the carb bodies come out like new. Just remember to wash off in clean water straight away afterwards and then a low bake in the oven. Protect with some WD40 and reassemble smile

clockworks

7,078 posts

167 months

Sunday 4th January
quotequote all
jfdi said:
clockworks said:
The cost of filling is one reason I stuck with a 6 litre tank.

The cleaning fluid I use (Horolene) now costs about £150 for a 5 litre can. Gets diluted with 7 parts of water, so a 30 litre tank would cost around £100 to fill.
Hence full the tank with plain water, put the part in a jar with the diluted cleaner.
That's what I do in my smaller tank when cleaning watch or carriage clock parts. I can get three jars in there for "3 step" cleaning.

My 6litre tank is just about big enough to hold a longcase (grandfather) clock back plate - if I remove the basket. A 10 litre tall would be better.

Jonny_

4,613 posts

229 months

Sunday 4th January
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About 8 years I bought a 15 litre cleaner with heater, basket, lid, drain valve, digital timers etc for ~£130 on eBay. For the difference in price the bigger capacity seemed a good idea. It's just a generic unbranded Chinese thing but it works well.

Depending what I'm cleaning I'll use diluted APC, citric acid, or a crumbled dishwasher tablet (this in very hot water makes for a mega effective degreaser). Citric acid shifts corrosion but be careful on anything plated.

The built in heater takes quite a while to heat water from cold, so best to fill the tank with hot water and use the heater to maintain temperature.

Plastic takeaway containers with lids work really well for cleaning small parts like nuts and bolts.

Legacywr

14,425 posts

210 months

Sunday 4th January
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You mentioned you’re tired of endless scrubbing… I don’t think an ultrasonic tank is going to let you do away with that, they’re really for a final clean rather than a big clean.

andrewcliffe

1,436 posts

246 months

Sunday 4th January
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I've got two - a small one and a larger one. Tend to use a more dilute detergent in the smaller one. Both heated with timer.

https://mistralie.co.uk/collections/ultrasonic-cle...

JoshSm

3,204 posts

59 months

Sunday 4th January
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clockworks said:
The cleaning fluid I use (Horolene) now costs about £150 for a 5 litre can.
Bit steep for what looks to be a fairly basic mix of ammonia, acetone, meths and butyl acetate.

RZ1

Original Poster:

4,476 posts

228 months

Sunday 4th January
quotequote all
How did people manage to be 10 litre ones 15 years ago for £150. circa £200 seems to be the going rate for a 6l one

clockworks

7,078 posts

167 months

Sunday 4th January
quotequote all
JoshSm said:
clockworks said:
The cleaning fluid I use (Horolene) now costs about £150 for a 5 litre can.
Bit steep for what looks to be a fairly basic mix of ammonia, acetone, meths and butyl acetate.
20 years ago it was pretty cheap. I bought two 5 litre cans a couple of years ago, £80 each. I need to buy some more, and was shocked at the current price.

Looking at what else is available, L&R ammoniated concentrate works out at £85 for 5 litres (actually comes in US gallons, so 3.8 litres). I've been impressed with the L&R watch cleaners, so I'll give it a try.
2 years ago, Horolene (British made) was cheaper than L&R (American made).