Composite cladding a small building
Composite cladding a small building
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Tant

Original Poster:

509 posts

214 months

Thursday 15th January
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Hello all, I'm after a bit of advice please. We have a biomass boiler at home which is enclosed in this rather sad looking wooden enclosure. It's sad looking because it's on the north of the house, never sees any sun, so the wood never dries out, and despite my best efforts to keep the paint in good order, the wood never really dries enough to take paint properly.

I intend to reclad it in March, so i didn't bother repainting it last "summer"..(live in south west Scotland). Anyway I know how much material I need but I'm not sure what sort of starter bars and finishing pieces and corner pieces I need. The current wood cladding is about 12mm thick, so the composite will not be too different. The colour will be a mid grey like the window surrounds

Any experience or tips would be appreciated.
Ta
Ant

emicen

9,089 posts

240 months

Thursday 15th January
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I didn’t do the fitting but we used EcoScape composite cladding for our house, they have detailed installation instructions online which show what starter bars etc you need.

For me, first step would be checking the cladding manufacturer’s website and seeing if they have similar.

Mr Squarekins

1,475 posts

84 months

Thursday 15th January
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https://www.cedral.world/en/cladding/

Cedral is good. All you need is here I think, even instructions.

smokey mow

1,326 posts

222 months

Thursday 15th January
quotequote all
It varies slightly depending on which system you use, but for the two corners you ll need a couple of external corner profiles in the matching colour and for the bottom the plank starter profile.

https://www.jameshardie.eu/gb-en/products/accessor...

The size of the starter profile you need will depend on the depth of the tiling batten that you fix the cladding to. A 25mm thick batten will need the 25mm profile etc.

The installation instructions show you how to detail all the different junctions.

https://james-hardie.bynder.com/m/235d285cf5b88ecb...

Make sure you also use stainless steel nails for fixing as steel will rust quickly and stain the boarding.

blueg33

44,313 posts

246 months

Friday 16th January
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smokey mow said:
It varies slightly depending on which system you use, but for the two corners you ll need a couple of external corner profiles in the matching colour and for the bottom the plank starter profile.

https://www.jameshardie.eu/gb-en/products/accessor...

The size of the starter profile you need will depend on the depth of the tiling batten that you fix the cladding to. A 25mm thick batten will need the 25mm profile etc.

The installation instructions show you how to detail all the different junctions.

https://james-hardie.bynder.com/m/235d285cf5b88ecb...

Make sure you also use stainless steel nails for fixing as steel will rust quickly and stain the boarding.
Hardieplank is excellent. We use it on factory built new build houses. Only 1 issue in 14 years of use, and thats where it was cut with a saw and touched up. Its best cut with a simple guillotine.





Edited by blueg33 on Friday 16th January 08:25


Edited by blueg33 on Friday 16th January 08:26

Tant

Original Poster:

509 posts

214 months

Friday 16th January
quotequote all
Brilliant, thanks for the tips gents, much obliged

DonkeyApple

66,102 posts

191 months

Friday 16th January
quotequote all
Tant said:
Brilliant, thanks for the tips gents, much obliged
Looks like a very pretty cottage. Do you absolutely want a plastic box on the rear? Bare timber would no doubt look much nicer and would last decades.

blueg33

44,313 posts

246 months

Friday 16th January
quotequote all
If using a cladding, its likely to be fixed on battens. This can create a chimney effect so you may want to look at fire stopping at the top and bottom of the cavity (especially as the building houses a boiler and abuts the house). I'm not sure if you can get it in small quantities, but something like Tenmat FF102 Ventilated Fire Barriers will close the cavity in the event of a fire. Possibly overkill, possibly not.

SHutchinson

2,269 posts

206 months

Friday 16th January
quotequote all
If you’d permit a small thread hijack, it appears we have a number of cladding experts assembled that I’d like the opinion of.

If this were your house what type of cladding system would you consider to replace this crumbly wood installed by the builders.



I can get a slightly better picture if needed, this one was handy as I recently used it to prove to my wife that I’d put the Christmas lights up.

GasEngineer

2,068 posts

84 months

Friday 16th January
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DonkeyApple said:
Looks like a very pretty cottage. Do you absolutely want a plastic box on the rear? Bare timber would no doubt look much nicer and would last decades.
Neither of the recommended options are plastic - (although plastic is available).

Cedral is better quality than Hardieplank and consequently more expensive.

blueg33

44,313 posts

246 months

Friday 16th January
quotequote all
SHutchinson said:
If you d permit a small thread hijack, it appears we have a number of cladding experts assembled that I d like the opinion of.

If this were your house what type of cladding system would you consider to replace this crumbly wood installed by the builders.



I can get a slightly better picture if needed, this one was handy as I recently used it to prove to my wife that I d put the Christmas lights up.
Another one for hardieplank

emicen

9,089 posts

240 months

Friday 16th January
quotequote all
blueg33 said:
If using a cladding, its likely to be fixed on battens. This can create a chimney effect so you may want to look at fire stopping at the top and bottom of the cavity (especially as the building houses a boiler and abuts the house). I'm not sure if you can get it in small quantities, but something like Tenmat FF102 Ventilated Fire Barriers will close the cavity in the event of a fire. Possibly overkill, possibly not.
Fireproofpaint.co.uk don’t have an MOQ iirc

hidetheelephants

33,275 posts

215 months

Friday 16th January
quotequote all
Cladding a boiler in plastic seems like a bad idea, have you looked at steel profile sheeting?

JD

3,086 posts

250 months

Friday 16th January
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DonkeyApple said:
Tant said:
Brilliant, thanks for the tips gents, much obliged
Looks like a very pretty cottage. Do you absolutely want a plastic box on the rear? Bare timber would no doubt look much nicer and would last decades.
Exactly my thinking, all cladding from a factory looks too even and would not look in keeping.

I’d refresh the weatherboarding if it’s knackered and paint it with Bedec barn paint which is incredible stuff.

blueg33

44,313 posts

246 months

Friday 16th January
quotequote all
hidetheelephants said:
Cladding a boiler in plastic seems like a bad idea, have you looked at steel profile sheeting?
Hardiplank is not plastic. It’s cement based.