Concealed Shower Handset Outlet - thread length
Concealed Shower Handset Outlet - thread length
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Discussion

Gad-Westy

Original Poster:

16,128 posts

234 months

Convoluted title. I'll try to explain and will post some pics in a sec.

Bought a concealed shower set. Concealed valve, fixed rainfall head and separate wall bracket for a handheld hose for rinsing down.

I'm fitting this to a new stud wall and have not boarded either side of it yet but it's being plastered in two weeks time so I do need a plan.

Anyway, the problem, the bracket that holds the handheld shower is also the water inlet so has a pipe fitting that goes through the wall. This is a G1/2 threaded full length. There is a rubber washer to seal against the visible side of the wall and another washer with a nut to seal against the inner hidden part of the wall. You'd then fit a 1/2" female connector to it and pipe that back to the shower valve outlet.

Here's the problem. The threaded part is way too short! We'll have tiles about 10mm thick accounting for adhesive then another 15mm or so of plasterboard and plaster. So 25mm so far. I'd then ideally have put some ply or something up behind the plasterboard in that area to strengthen it all. Call that another 10mm. So that is 35mm before I even think about the fitting or 25mm if I forgo the wood stiffener. But the actual thread length only gives you approx. 30mm total once the nut is fitted. So even if I tightened the nut straight to the back of the plasterboard, I'd only have 5mm of thread for a fitting.

I don't want to cut the plasterboard away and have this thing only hanging from a tile. That sounds like a recipe for either pulling the tile straight off the wall or cracking it if it ever gets knocked.

I could maybe do something local where I replace the plasterboard in a small area with something stiffer and attach through the tile and that only. A stainless bracket or some cement backing board or something? Open to ideas!

Or I could forgo the nut and fit a right angle wall plate type fitting (like my second pic) to a noggin at an appropriate depth and screw straight into that. That's probably my favourite option but I'm bothered about the fact that when I tighten the fitting, I'll be trying to seal against the tille and the 1/2" fitting at the same time. I guess plenty of PTFE tape will probably make that work but everytime the bracket is ever twisted slightly it will be moving in the 1/2" thread which doesn't sound ideal.

Anyone have any thoughts?

BTW, the fixed shower head has plenty of thread to do exactly the same task. Go figure...


Edited by Gad-Westy on Wednesday 28th January 08:00

Gad-Westy

Original Poster:

16,128 posts

234 months

GasEngineer

2,030 posts

83 months

I've used these before.

It's a different setup where a length of 15mm tube goes through the wall and the outlet pushes onto that.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/aqualisa-shower-hose-wa...

Gad-Westy

Original Poster:

16,128 posts

234 months

GasEngineer said:
I've used these before.

It's a different setup where a length of 15mm tube goes through the wall and the outlet pushes onto that.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/aqualisa-shower-hose-wa...
Cheers. That looks like a much more sensible solution. A bit more money but this one would be much more in keeping with the rest of the fittings.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bristan-shower-wall-out...

Will be very annoying if I have to spend another £55 when the thing supplied appears to be basically not fit for purpose. But it might be the best option.

Danns

407 posts

80 months

You can get thread extenders - M-F adapters if she comes up to short, had to use this on my thru wall bath spout.

Couple of points - there are metal brackets which act as a noggin the to hold the wall plate, much better solution as I used in the pic below.

why are you going for / tiling onto plasterboard? now the time to use wedi board, tape seal the joints and do it properly (unless Ive read your OP incorrectly)


B'stard Child

30,706 posts

267 months

Danns said:
You can get thread extenders - M-F adapters if she comes up to short, had to use this on my thru wall bath spout.

Couple of points - there are metal brackets which act as a noggin the to hold the wall plate, much better solution as I used in the pic below.

why are you going for / tiling onto plasterboard? now the time to use wedi board, tape seal the joints and do it properly (unless Ive read your OP incorrectly)

That's what I've used in the past (although I really like the bracket arrangement you've done there - looks nice and rigid) thumbup

Danns

407 posts

80 months

Cheers.. effin' heavy 300mm shower head on a longish arm that holds about 5 litres of water when the shower is off, I didn't want to take any chances!

Took me a while to find as no obvious google hits.. "Abacus Easi-Plan" is the name of those brackets

miroku1

413 posts

128 months

You just screw on a compression female iron to 15mm brass connector at second fix stage and screw this into the back plate elbow or whatever you have fastened in the wall , easy job

Gad-Westy

Original Poster:

16,128 posts

234 months

miroku1 said:
You just screw on a compression female iron to 15mm brass connector at second fix stage and screw this into the back plate elbow or whatever you have fastened in the wall , easy job
cheers, though I'm not sure I'm following that. One of the main issues is that I don't have enough thread left over to screw anything to it or am I missing your point? And if I was going to skip the use of the nut, why not just go straight into a plate elbow with the fitting provided and skip the female iron bit?

Edited by Gad-Westy on Wednesday 28th January 12:33

Gad-Westy

Original Poster:

16,128 posts

234 months

Danns said:
You can get thread extenders - M-F adapters if she comes up to short, had to use this on my thru wall bath spout.

Couple of points - there are metal brackets which act as a noggin the to hold the wall plate, much better solution as I used in the pic below.

why are you going for / tiling onto plasterboard? now the time to use wedi board, tape seal the joints and do it properly (unless Ive read your OP incorrectly)

Cheers. I'd wondered about something like that. Only thing I don't love is that I still couldn't clamp directly across the wall itself as there would be no thread left for the adaptor. I guess it's not huge issue though.

Regarding Wedi board. The wall in question is not all tiled. A long wall with only some of it in the shower area. I had wondered about wedi board but presumably I'd still then want to skim over it otherwise I'd have a step of a couple of mm? Can you plaster onto wedi board? Rightly or wrongly I was going to use moisture resistant plasterboard and a separate tanking product. One of the walls is original so I'm a bit stuck with that one.

Danns

407 posts

80 months

Ah came across the same step issue you describe, overcame it with a chunky trim (went for solid marble throughout which made such trim pieces more readily available, can make out the before and after in the right hand side of pics below.

Towel rail stays nice n dry if anyone is wondering!

Was my first time doing a bathroom, there s a few errors but overall rather nice.





ETA...Wait hold up... now I think about it... I put the plasterboard up and brought it to same level as the front face of the wedi.

Edited by Danns on Wednesday 28th January 13:00