Painting a dank, damp, musty old outbuilding
Discussion
I've an old outbuilding that looks to me to be made of 1950's concrete blocks with no DPC. The walls are quite damp. I want to paint it so was thinking:
1 - Remove vegetation growing over/around it.
2 - Reroof and add guttering.
I was thinking of (1) adding a waterproof paint on the outside to stop rain penetrating the walls from the outside and (2) using a limewash paint inside to allow any damp in the walls to breathe out.
Does this sound a good plan, any better ideas?
Thanks.
1 - Remove vegetation growing over/around it.
2 - Reroof and add guttering.
I was thinking of (1) adding a waterproof paint on the outside to stop rain penetrating the walls from the outside and (2) using a limewash paint inside to allow any damp in the walls to breathe out.
Does this sound a good plan, any better ideas?
Thanks.
No need for lime wash paint.
A "proper" emulsion paint has some breathing properties - used for bare / new plastered walls.
A vinyl matt, the usual emulsion, is less apt to breathe.
Use the first and you should be okay.
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Scarletpimpofnel said:
I've an old outbuilding that looks to me to be made of 1950's concrete blocks with no DPC. The walls are quite damp. I want to paint it so was thinking:
1 - Remove vegetation growing over/around it.
2 - Reroof and add guttering.
I was thinking of (1) adding a waterproof paint on the outside to stop rain penetrating the walls from the outside and (2) using a limewash paint inside to allow any damp in the walls to breathe out.
Does this sound a good plan, any better ideas?
Thanks.
I'd start by removing all the vegetation and also digging out around the base so that the soil level is nicely below the floor level etc. Clear any gutters and check they're working and check the roof. Then leave it to see what the actual issue is. Once upon a time it would have been perfectly dry. 1 - Remove vegetation growing over/around it.
2 - Reroof and add guttering.
I was thinking of (1) adding a waterproof paint on the outside to stop rain penetrating the walls from the outside and (2) using a limewash paint inside to allow any damp in the walls to breathe out.
Does this sound a good plan, any better ideas?
Thanks.
Giving that time to dry out or not dry out will basically determine what, if anything you need to do.
It depends on the ground conditions and also the exposure to weather, and also what your hopes and expectations for the building are.
Is it just somewhere out off the rain to store a garden spade and stuff, or will it be a workshop for fine carpentry?
Sometimes vegetation actually keeps some rain off, and also can be nicer to look at than a crude shed. OTOH, ivy and some other plants can do a lot of damage.
There are all sorts of options including cladding the outside or lining the inside.
Sometimes damp proofing the floor is one of the best improvements.
Decent masonry paint is often a good option, you can buy versions which are rain-proof but have some breathability.
Sorting out the roof, with good overhangs and gutters would be the priority?
Is it just somewhere out off the rain to store a garden spade and stuff, or will it be a workshop for fine carpentry?
Sometimes vegetation actually keeps some rain off, and also can be nicer to look at than a crude shed. OTOH, ivy and some other plants can do a lot of damage.
There are all sorts of options including cladding the outside or lining the inside.
Sometimes damp proofing the floor is one of the best improvements.
Decent masonry paint is often a good option, you can buy versions which are rain-proof but have some breathability.
Sorting out the roof, with good overhangs and gutters would be the priority?
I have a solid break outbuilding, it isn't really all that damp, but there are two areas of the wall that are problematic. I have a leaking gutter and there's a tarmac path under the drop, it splashes up and leaves a far bigger area damp than you would think. Then one side has had the ground built up about 50cm against it, that wall is also damp believe it or not!
I get damp inside in winter terribly, when it is cold and wet if you spend and time in there you create moisture and it condenses. It was so bad before Christmas that my kitchen wall cupboards in there were wet to the touch! I run a dehumidifier as soon as I remember.
You will be able to get it so it isn't suffering from damp, but unless it's heated and insulated you're still likely to have issues with damp air and condensation in use.
The advice about cladding is good, that would be a simple fix for a single-skin construction, especially if it could do with an aesthetic overall anyway, but it might not be necessary.
I get damp inside in winter terribly, when it is cold and wet if you spend and time in there you create moisture and it condenses. It was so bad before Christmas that my kitchen wall cupboards in there were wet to the touch! I run a dehumidifier as soon as I remember.
You will be able to get it so it isn't suffering from damp, but unless it's heated and insulated you're still likely to have issues with damp air and condensation in use.
The advice about cladding is good, that would be a simple fix for a single-skin construction, especially if it could do with an aesthetic overall anyway, but it might not be necessary.
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