Sealing cut ends of worktops.

[OutInTheShed]

Is there anything likely to be in my shed that does the job in one go?
I have used a few coats of yacht varnish in the past.
What do people use these days?
Wasn't thixofix the thing?

Would 'instant nails' or something be good?

[PhilboSE]

Without telling us how well stocked your shed is, or what the worktop is made from, hard to answer your question.

But if it’s a chipboard worktop, then a waterproof sealant like PVA or yacht varnish would do. Heck, even silicone gunned on and spread with a flat would do it.

I’d guess most such chipboards aren’t sealed with anything…

[OutInTheShed]

Fair comment!
It's a normal chipboard/laminate worktop.

I guess most things are better than nothing.
In the past i've noticed these things can soak up many coats of paint/varnish primer and still be porous.

[Bucket123]

I just used some spare silicone sealant. I just used my fingers to ensure the whole surface was coated. I'm not sure if use pva to be honest as i would want something more waterproof.

[wolfracesonic]

If it’s just for a shed, use a metal bacteria strip with some clear silicone behind it, waterproof and will help to protect the worktop from the rigours of shed life.

[JoshSm]

I usually use varnish, does the job without buildup though can take 2 or 3 coats. Usually start with a heavily applied thinned one to get it to really soak it in, the later ones then just coat/fill gaps. Works for water and moisture absorption protection & quick to apply everywhere.

PVA isn't a moisture sealant and silicone or instant nails would cause too much buildup & doesnt do much to waterproof anything, though silicone into a joint is a fine idea if nothing better on the shelf.

D4 glue might work, assuming a non expanding one. Thin to apply, waterproof, will definitely help bind the edge. Not so great as a general coating but on a cut edge should be fine.

[OutInTheShed]

Thanks!
The job is getting more complex.
I might need to mitre two worktops.
Is it best to actually glue the joint?
I'm tending to think not in this case, as the kitchen may get modified before too long.
If we seal the joint edges and fill the join with coloured sealant, that should be OK but dismantle-able if needed later.
It's a mate's annex. Doesn't need to be a show home, but needs to look OK at first sight and be robust.

[Pixel Pusher]

If you think it might be temporary, why not use a dry biscuit joint to keep the mated surfaces level then add a couple of worktop clamps to pinch the gap tight.

Simple to dismantle then as no glue required.