Lifting floor boards, what else to do while boards are up
Discussion
As per title, we will shortly be replacing our first floor floorboards.
As the new boards will be screwed and glued, I was to pre-emptively do works so that we dont have to pull them up again in the future.
So far the plan is to:
- Add sound insulation between joists
- Replace downlighters with ones suitable to go under insulation
- Put pipe insulation on all hot water runs
- Run Cat 6 cable to each room/ landing back into loft.
I dont think we want to add any power sockets to any room, so thats not needed. Ceiling speakers have been veto'd by the boss...
What else should we be considering?
As the new boards will be screwed and glued, I was to pre-emptively do works so that we dont have to pull them up again in the future.
So far the plan is to:
- Add sound insulation between joists
- Replace downlighters with ones suitable to go under insulation
- Put pipe insulation on all hot water runs
- Run Cat 6 cable to each room/ landing back into loft.
I dont think we want to add any power sockets to any room, so thats not needed. Ceiling speakers have been veto'd by the boss...
What else should we be considering?
When I did this I marked the location of any pipes and cables on top of the floorboards with a black marker before the carpet was fitted.
Also infilled the space with Rockwool. Thie has added sound insulation between flloors as well as heat insulation . This keeps the ground floor warm and if I need heat upstairs can put the radiators on.
I also screwed the floorboards down rather than nails to prevent sqeaking boards
Also infilled the space with Rockwool. Thie has added sound insulation between flloors as well as heat insulation . This keeps the ground floor warm and if I need heat upstairs can put the radiators on.
I also screwed the floorboards down rather than nails to prevent sqeaking boards
If you don't already have minimum 2 zone heating, depending on heating system... consider pipework alternations to facilitate?
Inc running a supply cable for a nest etc thermostat to wall position.
Likewise wet "summer" bathroom towel rail if you don't already have/may want.
Unsure of age of house but check cable runs / hidden junction boxes. Remove/replace where necessary.
Any chance you may want / add further exterior lights in future?
Inc running a supply cable for a nest etc thermostat to wall position.
Likewise wet "summer" bathroom towel rail if you don't already have/may want.
Unsure of age of house but check cable runs / hidden junction boxes. Remove/replace where necessary.
Any chance you may want / add further exterior lights in future?
Sporky said:
Inlineonline said:
Bury a time capsule for future generations?
I was going to say "leave a cryptic note". In modern times, you should probably be leaving a Nike trainer or the remains of last nights KFC under the floorboards

Danns said:
If you don't already have minimum 2 zone heating, depending on heating system... consider pipework alternations to facilitate?
Inc running a supply cable for a nest etc thermostat to wall position.
Likewise wet "summer" bathroom towel rail if you don't already have/may want.
Unsure of age of house but check cable runs / hidden junction boxes. Remove/replace where necessary.
Any chance you may want / add further exterior lights in future?
We already have Drayton wiser kit so heating is sorted... Inc running a supply cable for a nest etc thermostat to wall position.
Likewise wet "summer" bathroom towel rail if you don't already have/may want.
Unsure of age of house but check cable runs / hidden junction boxes. Remove/replace where necessary.
Any chance you may want / add further exterior lights in future?
House was built in 1984.
Exterior lights is actually a very good point, I have one sat in the garage ready to fit and hadn't fully decided on cable run yet so thats a good shout.
williamp said:
Also, buy one of these

Remove the metal pole and lay it down, along with a few artifacts from the year the house was built- an old newspaper, for example. Maybe some rusty kitchen knives.
Never tell a soul...
We did find a rusty shotgun under the insulation in the loft shortly after moving in, so we may well find a skeleton or two when we pull the floorboards up!
Remove the metal pole and lay it down, along with a few artifacts from the year the house was built- an old newspaper, for example. Maybe some rusty kitchen knives.
Never tell a soul...
Bikesalot said:
Quite timely this and sorry for the hijack.
Has anyone added sound insulation inbetween joists and it made a noticeable difference?
We are putting it down but not entirely convinced it will make any difference, but it's only about £70-100/ room so thought worthwhile even for a small gain. Has anyone added sound insulation inbetween joists and it made a noticeable difference?
I think it will help with talking noise, but not people walking round.
Edited by Audis5b9 on Wednesday 13th May 18:24
Bikesalot said:
Quite timely this and sorry for the hijack.
Has anyone added sound insulation inbetween joists and it made a noticeable difference?
It does make a difference if you do it properly, but unless you factor in some decoupling (membrane and/or resilient bar) it still won't be as good as it could be.Has anyone added sound insulation inbetween joists and it made a noticeable difference?
A project I'm working on specifies min 100mm of 10kg/m3 insulation between joists. We'll probably use Rockwool RWA45 (45kg/m3) as from experience that does make a difference.
Howlin Mad Murdoch said:
Out of interest, can this work with downlighters?
You can buy downlighters specced to go under insulation (IC rated - Insulation Covered) https://electricalwholesalers4u.com/products/knigh...
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