Cable for electric oven from isolator
Discussion
I'm having to swap out my dying gas built under oven and go back to electric as there appears to be virtually none made now.
I did leave the old 6.0mm electric feed to the kitchen when the new one was fitted, although this is behind a fitted unit now plus it's black and red cable so getting on a bit.
My plan is to run a new length of 6.0mm twin and earth from the consumer unit to the new oven as this can easily be done to the corner fitted oven.
I will fit the isolator in one of the cupboards to meet the distance regulations.
My question is, is it ok to ruin twin and earth from the isolator to the oven or should it be a heat resistant flexible cable, like immersion heater cable?
I did leave the old 6.0mm electric feed to the kitchen when the new one was fitted, although this is behind a fitted unit now plus it's black and red cable so getting on a bit.
My plan is to run a new length of 6.0mm twin and earth from the consumer unit to the new oven as this can easily be done to the corner fitted oven.
I will fit the isolator in one of the cupboards to meet the distance regulations.
My question is, is it ok to ruin twin and earth from the isolator to the oven or should it be a heat resistant flexible cable, like immersion heater cable?
OutInTheShed said:
Last ovens and hobs I saw came with cable on.
Oven was <13A.
Hob was a lot of amps. 25 maybe.
It should probably be flex as it's only semi-permanently installed.
I'm not a sparks though.
It's going to be a double oven to get a grill in the top so I think it will need more than 13ampOven was <13A.
Hob was a lot of amps. 25 maybe.
It should probably be flex as it's only semi-permanently installed.
I'm not a sparks though.
Not picked the oven yet.
Easternlight said:
It's going to be a double oven to get a grill in the top so I think it will need more than 13amp
Not picked the oven yet.
Look up Diversity.Not picked the oven yet.
A suitable flex would probably be more appropriate than solid T&E: in fact T&E from the isolator to an outlet near to the oven (cable buried of course) would be better than direct wiring into the isolator.
Easternlight said:
It's going to be a double oven to get a grill in the top so I think it will need more than 13amp
Not picked the oven yet.
Our single oven has a grill in the top, but I suspect a double oven might be over 13A.Not picked the oven yet.
It's normally possible to drownload the manual for things you're considering.
Some appliances these days can be programmed to limit the max input power, for example it might allow top oven to be 3kW or bottom oven to be 3kW but limit the total to 4kW or something. Our hob is like that, but its wired 'stoutly' so the options menu is set for full power.
The isolator switch is above the worktop, but there's a 'cooker outlet' under the worktop. ISTR the flex on the oven wasn't very long and came from the most awkward corner. You need enough flex to slide the oven out....
Easternlight said:
I'm having to swap out my dying gas built under oven and go back to electric as there appears to be virtually none made now.
I did leave the old 6.0mm electric feed to the kitchen when the new one was fitted, although this is behind a fitted unit now plus it's black and red cable so getting on a bit.
My plan is to run a new length of 6.0mm twin and earth from the consumer unit to the new oven as this can easily be done to the corner fitted oven.
I will fit the isolator in one of the cupboards to meet the distance regulations.
My question is, is it ok to ruin twin and earth from the isolator to the oven or should it be a heat resistant flexible cable, like immersion heater cable?
I used this stuff for my oven. https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/2015172-6...I did leave the old 6.0mm electric feed to the kitchen when the new one was fitted, although this is behind a fitted unit now plus it's black and red cable so getting on a bit.
My plan is to run a new length of 6.0mm twin and earth from the consumer unit to the new oven as this can easily be done to the corner fitted oven.
I will fit the isolator in one of the cupboards to meet the distance regulations.
My question is, is it ok to ruin twin and earth from the isolator to the oven or should it be a heat resistant flexible cable, like immersion heater cable?
Mr Pointy said:
Thank you. Very informative.I have had new cookers, hobs, ovens and microwaves over the last few years.
Many appliances are very cryptic when it comes to the electrical requirements and some appliances come with connection cables but many don't.
A traditional electric cooker that is a combined induction hob and double oven with grill is rated 220V 12 kW which is max 54 Amps and yet the supplied cooker connection cable is only 4.0mm2 flex.
I think some hobs for instance come with multi-core flex, so they can be wired to more than one phase.
Each phase might be 4sqmm?
In some worlds, 4sqmm will carry much more current than is normal in domestic wiring. It's a matter of ambient temp, whether there is convection cooling or what and the temperature rating of the insulation. among other factors!
Each phase might be 4sqmm?
In some worlds, 4sqmm will carry much more current than is normal in domestic wiring. It's a matter of ambient temp, whether there is convection cooling or what and the temperature rating of the insulation. among other factors!
I suspect 6mm would be fine, especially with diversity.
However that being said I’m normally belt and braces. The last thing you want is your mcb/rcbo tripping on Christmas Day when you’re cooking the dinner and you’ve got everything on. The wife wouldn’t be happy! Look at what power your ovens need and go from there leaving some head space.
Running in twin and earth to the isolator is fine. Personally id then run twin and earth to this behind your oven to make your life easier/give you flexibility in the future. https://www.electricpoint.com/stanic-duo-dual-cook...
I’d then run heat resistant flex from your oven into the cooker connection. Use ferrules if needed.
However that being said I’m normally belt and braces. The last thing you want is your mcb/rcbo tripping on Christmas Day when you’re cooking the dinner and you’ve got everything on. The wife wouldn’t be happy! Look at what power your ovens need and go from there leaving some head space.
Running in twin and earth to the isolator is fine. Personally id then run twin and earth to this behind your oven to make your life easier/give you flexibility in the future. https://www.electricpoint.com/stanic-duo-dual-cook...
I’d then run heat resistant flex from your oven into the cooker connection. Use ferrules if needed.
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