Composite door diy
Discussion
Has anyone attempted doing a DIY? My uPVC door is broken the entire mechanism is shot . I can't even close the door so I've just put 2 screws straight through it to keep it secure.
Seen the below from a local supplier on eBay. My frame from bottom of the cill to top is 2100. This is 2040. How much can I pack this out, would or could I make this fit or do I need a frame/unit that's dead on or near 2100.
Also if anyone has ever done this DIY then some pointers please
Thanks
Seen the below from a local supplier on eBay. My frame from bottom of the cill to top is 2100. This is 2040. How much can I pack this out, would or could I make this fit or do I need a frame/unit that's dead on or near 2100.
Also if anyone has ever done this DIY then some pointers please
Thanks
You need to ask him if the 2040 is overall including cill as there is no cill in the screen grab you’ve posted.
With a cill you’ll be close to 2100, when measuring up I give 10mm in width and height to allow fitting, plumbing and levelling up.
You haven’t said what your existing width is.
With a cill you’ll be close to 2100, when measuring up I give 10mm in width and height to allow fitting, plumbing and levelling up.
You haven’t said what your existing width is.
If the gearbox etc can’t be replaced a composite upgrade would be worth doing.
Heights : check the cill is or isn’t included in the overall measurements. Cills are available in different ‘depths’ (how far they stick out over the wall) and are generally 30mm in height underneath the door frame. You can also add a knock on frame piece at the top to add to the overall height but it doesn’t look ideal. They’re available in different heights.
Tips : get it all square so it locks without binding - a long spirit level is well worth having. Drill the holes into bricks not mortar. Rapier bolts are what most fitters use but to be honest rawl plugs and some long no 10 or 12 screws would be fine. Put packers of varying thicknesses where the fixings are - don’t force too many in there so the frame bends, just slot them in gently, then foam it all once the screws have been nipped up a touch and you’ve checked it locks ok. Bits to fit are maybe 30 odd quid, worth investing more in a proper foam gun and some cleaner though as it’s a million times more controllable than the aerosols.
Make sure the door is the right way round too. Don’t laugh, I had a window fitted upside down with all the frame drain holes at the top.
Heights : check the cill is or isn’t included in the overall measurements. Cills are available in different ‘depths’ (how far they stick out over the wall) and are generally 30mm in height underneath the door frame. You can also add a knock on frame piece at the top to add to the overall height but it doesn’t look ideal. They’re available in different heights.
Tips : get it all square so it locks without binding - a long spirit level is well worth having. Drill the holes into bricks not mortar. Rapier bolts are what most fitters use but to be honest rawl plugs and some long no 10 or 12 screws would be fine. Put packers of varying thicknesses where the fixings are - don’t force too many in there so the frame bends, just slot them in gently, then foam it all once the screws have been nipped up a touch and you’ve checked it locks ok. Bits to fit are maybe 30 odd quid, worth investing more in a proper foam gun and some cleaner though as it’s a million times more controllable than the aerosols.
Make sure the door is the right way round too. Don’t laugh, I had a window fitted upside down with all the frame drain holes at the top.
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