Removing a radiator... what is best method?

[Scarletpimpofnel]

I've a radiator (fed by 10mm polypipe) behind a settee. I don't want to relocate it, just remove it to use the space. There are two easy options so I don't have to raise floor boards etc, I think:

1 - Drain the system. Cut the polypipes. Put inserts in then add cap ends to both pipes. Put pipes behind an inspection hatch so that they can be inspected and connected to if the radiator is ever reinstated.

2 - DON'T drain the system and instead turn off both the regulator valve and the TRV. Undo both valves from the radiator and in place of the radiator connection fit a blanking cap to both ends. Then feed the pipes (including affixed valves!) into the wall space. Add inspection hatch so they can be inspected if necessary.

The second option is quicker imo and makes adding the radiator back in the future much easier.

Anyone see any issue with option 2 as that is my preference?

Many thanks.

[JoshSm]

Nothing obvious wrong with option 2 that I can see vs option 1?

It's more reversible and it's no worse for dead legs.

[Scarletpimpofnel]

JoshSm said:

Nothing obvious wrong with option 2 that I can see vs option 1?

It's more reversible and it's no worse for dead legs.

Thanks for that. Dead legs don't matter in a non drinking water system right?

[Panamax]

Just watch out for the very basic fact that radiators are full of all sorts of old crud at the bottom. Spill that on your carpets and you'll never get it out.

Think very carefully before you start.

[JoshSm]

Panamax said:

Just watch out for the very basic fact that radiators are full of all sorts of old crud at the bottom. Spill that on your carpets and you'll never get it out.

Think very carefully before you start.

Plumb tub(s) and plumb thumbs might help? And a tarp/old towel.

[richhead]

why not just join the two pipes somehow?

[clockworks]

richhead said:

why not just join the two pipes somehow?

I'm not a plumber, but my understanding is that radiators are generally plumbed in parallel.
Replacing a radiator with a length of pipe will effectively "short circuit" all the other radiators.

[Scarletpimpofnel]

Panamax said:

Just watch out for the very basic fact that radiators are full of all sorts of old crud at the bottom. Spill that on your carpets and you'll never get it out.

Think very carefully before you start.

Yes good point a large tub and lots of towels ready.

[nwmlarge1]

Scarletpimpofnel said:

Thanks for that. Dead legs don't matter in a non drinking water system right?

They do if the system is not correctly dosed with inhibitor.

They have the potential to develop bio material, that will find its way in to strainers and pumps within the system compromising its efficiency, not least to comment on the heat loss and latency with additional pipework.

[unzippy]

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/17tMGYSQW3k?feature...

[richhead]

clockworks said:

richhead said:

why not just join the two pipes somehow?

I'm not a plumber, but my understanding is that radiators are generally plumbed in parallel.
Replacing a radiator with a length of pipe will effectively "short circuit" all the other radiators.

Also not a p;umber hence the question mark, and what you say may well be true

[Griffith4ever]

richhead said:

clockworks said:

richhead said:

why not just join the two pipes somehow?

I'm not a plumber, but my understanding is that radiators are generally plumbed in parallel.
Replacing a radiator with a length of pipe will effectively "short circuit" all the other radiators.

Also not a p;umber hence the question mark, and what you say may well be true

Putting a length of pipe between the two tails is no different to having a rad there, with the valves both fully open surely?

[clockworks]

Griffith4ever said:

richhead said:

clockworks said:

richhead said:

why not just join the two pipes somehow?

I'm not a plumber, but my understanding is that radiators are generally plumbed in parallel.
Replacing a radiator with a length of pipe will effectively "short circuit" all the other radiators.

Also not a p;umber hence the question mark, and what you say may well be true

Putting a length of pipe between the two tails is no different to having a rad there, with the valves both fully open surely?

A straight length of 15mm copper pipe is surely a lot less restrictive than a radiator, and the circulating water would take the easy path?

I suppose it would be theoretically possible to balance the flow, but would the existing lockshield valve have fine enough adjustment to achieve the required (or higher) delta T?

Of course, you could just fit a length of pipe to act as the capping, and fully close the lockshield valve. Back to the "dead leg" situation though, plus you've got the problem of hiding the pipe.

[Black_S3]

Scarletpimpofnel said:

I've a radiator (fed by 10mm polypipe) behind a settee. I don't want to relocate it, just remove it to use the space. There are two easy options so I don't have to raise floor boards etc, I think:

1 - Drain the system. Cut the polypipes. Put inserts in then add cap ends to both pipes. Put pipes behind an inspection hatch so that they can be inspected and connected to if the radiator is ever reinstated.

2 - DON'T drain the system and instead turn off both the regulator valve and the TRV. Undo both valves from the radiator and in place of the radiator connection fit a blanking cap to both ends. Then feed the pipes (including affixed valves!) into the wall space. Add inspection hatch so they can be inspected if necessary.

The second option is quicker imo and makes adding the radiator back in the future much easier.

Anyone see any issue with option 2 as that is my preference?

Many thanks.

I'd rule out 2 as TRV pins do have a habbit of leaking eventually. It's also no bad thing to drop the system, see what state the waters in and flush/refil with a correct dose of inhibitor. Maybe a bit more time consuming but the easiest way is dropping it all, especially if you have an externall drain off..... As for ease of replacing the rad Id imagine youd be new valves and a drain down then anyway.

Dont get hung up on deadlegs either, its catergory 3-4 fluids in a heating system anyway. Def dont link the flow and return together, even if the whole system 'works' after doing this it has a habbit of fking entire runs of pipework overtime as any sludge/magnetite slowly builds up unnoticed on the most restrictive runs rather than making its way back to the filter and you'll only find out when its too late.

[Scarletpimpofnel]

Black_S3 said:

I'd rule out 2 as TRV pins do have a habbit of leaking eventually. It's also no bad thing to drop the system, see what state the waters in and flush/refil with a correct dose of inhibitor. Maybe a bit more time consuming but the easiest way is dropping it all, especially if you have an externall drain off..... As for ease of replacing the rad Id imagine youd be new valves and a drain down then anyway.

Dont get hung up on deadlegs either, its catergory 3-4 fluids in a heating system anyway. Def dont link the flow and return together, even if the whole system 'works' after doing this it has a habbit of fking entire runs of pipework overtime as any sludge/magnetite slowly builds up unnoticed on the most restrictive runs rather than making its way back to the filter and you'll only find out when its too late.

Thanks for that. I take your point about TRV valves leaking eventually, good point.