‘Steaming’ this laminate back into position?
‘Steaming’ this laminate back into position?
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Discussion

Aerate

Original Poster:

323 posts

179 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
My engineered floor has delaminated in a single spot. Removing and replacing is out of the question as it has electric (I know ?) underfloor heating. Obviously I can t clamp. I was considering steaming the veneer to give it more pliability and then re gluing.

To steam the wood, I was going to make it wetter than damp, but not soaking and warming it with a heat gun. Then I was going to insert glue as far as possible and then apply as much weight as I can (more than the gym weight in the photo). Is my steaming technique going to be any good? What sort of glue do I need? (bearing in mind that the substrate will be damp).


Edited by Aerate on Wednesday 4th November 09:36

p4cks

7,542 posts

230 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
There's no photo

Aerate

Original Poster:

323 posts

179 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
p4cks said:
There's no photo
Quite right - fixed

Huzzah

29,065 posts

214 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
I'm not expert but how about leaving it dry whilst the weight is there, then glue it once dry?

Sford

525 posts

181 months

Wednesday
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Not sure on glue but a damp sponge on top would probably help the moisture get into it without flooding it. You might find it expands though when damp and then won't fit in the hole.

Russet Grange

3,185 posts

57 months

Wednesday
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I'd just buy the best wood glue and whck a big old weight on it for a couple of days.

Titebond seems to be the glue of choice for professionals.

W12GT

4,490 posts

252 months

Wednesday
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I d opt for a good heat resistant contact adhesive given you ve got the electric UFH mats directly below it.

Edited to add - I’d also turn the UFH off for 24hrs before and 24hrs after glueing it too.

CypSIdders

1,286 posts

185 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
How much force does it take to push the offending piece back into place?
If you can push it back with your fingers then gluing it should work.
Wood glue should work, expoxy will also do the job!

W12GT

4,490 posts

252 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
Also - that floor looks very dry and like it should have been resealed/oiled. If you know the manufacturer I’d suggest asking their opinion.

Purosangue

2,788 posts

44 months

Wednesday
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keep dry

I wouldnt use a wood glue as these really act under pressure ( clamping )

A strong epoxy two part glue spread under the laminate , then a very heavy 100kg object placed over the joint leave 24 hrs

then re seal your entire floor

OutInTheShed

14,876 posts

57 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
Steam does make some woods, including oak, very flexible.

You could try with a hot air gun. But it's easy to scorch the wood.

If you can get the wood to bend back into place, then any decent glue will do, in the old days, you'd use something like a flat iron to hold the wood down while the glue set.

JoshSm

5,383 posts

68 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
Purosangue said:
keep dry

I wouldnt use a wood glue as these really act under pressure ( clamping )

A strong epoxy two part glue spread under the laminate , then a very heavy 100kg object placed over the joint leave 24 hrs

then re seal your entire floor
Getting epoxy in would be a pain. A D3 wood glue would work fine.

I'd get a large bore syringe and inject towards the back edge, then just push down the top to spread it.

In theory the gap should be very tight and need little glue (and want something very fluid) as you're trying to rebond two mating faces, and if they aren't pushed tight it'll be wrong anyway.

Weight (and steaming) really depends on how flexible that top laminate is.

Also remember to allow for glue leakage - I'd mask all the top faces around where you're working.

JoshSm

5,383 posts

68 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
Also, re. steaming, why not just use a steam iron on it through a tea towel? Flat, allows for applying pressure, lots of direct steam without everything getting wet.

If you don't have one buy one, they're cheap.

Beetnik

579 posts

215 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
Purosangue said:
keep dry

I wouldnt use a wood glue as these really act under pressure ( clamping )

A strong epoxy two part glue spread under the laminate , then a very heavy 100kg object placed over the joint leave 24 hrs

then re seal your entire floor
I'm looking forward to the next thread started by the OP "How do I remove a 100Kg object I've accidentally glued to my laminate floor"

Aerate

Original Poster:

323 posts

179 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
Beetnik said:
I'm looking forward to the next thread started by the OP "How do I remove a 100Kg object I've accidentally glued to my laminate floor"
Erm… now you come to mention it…

😉

Simpo Two

93,032 posts

296 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
Luckily the room is full of weights. So whatever glue you use, I'd cut a square of plywood the width of the plank, to ensure all the weight is applied where it's needed, force glue into gap with a thin spatula, then pile weights on top and leave as required.

What's the surface under the wood?

Purosangue

2,788 posts

44 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
Beetnik said:
Purosangue said:
keep dry

I wouldnt use a wood glue as these really act under pressure ( clamping )

A strong epoxy two part glue spread under the laminate , then a very heavy 100kg object placed over the joint leave 24 hrs

then re seal your entire floor
I'm looking forward to the next thread started by the OP "How do I remove a 100Kg object I've accidentally glued to my laminate floor"
simple

Chumley.mouse

964 posts

68 months

Yesterday (05:55)
quotequote all
You don’t need a heavy weight, an acro prop will do. Just protect the ceiling from marking and something to spread the force out to stop it damaging the plasterboard.

Aerate

Original Poster:

323 posts

179 months

Yesterday (08:13)
quotequote all
Chumley.mouse said:
You don t need a heavy weight, an acro prop will do. Just protect the ceiling from marking and something to spread the force out to stop it damaging the plasterboard.
This is a great idea. Sadly the room has a vaulted ceiling. With Electric UFH the vaulted ceiling was a terrible idea!

paulwirral

3,829 posts

166 months

Yesterday (08:34)
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Gorilla glue needs the surfaces to be damp to activate it properly , it’s probably your safest bet , but make sure it’s well weighted as it does expand