leaky asbestos garage roof, quick fix needed.
Discussion
recently moved into a house with a asbestos garage roof. the roof is in good condition ie the asbestos sheets are whole and sturdy, but where each sheet overlaps or meets im getting water penetration.
i bought some bitumen tar stuff in a tin that i painted over some of the leaky areas on the inside of the roof, this seemed to fix it (only has light rain since)
however after the heavy down pour last night i woke to find my garage floor soaking wet and water dripping through joins, the parts i painted were dry, it seemed to push the water to other place i had not painted.
I cant afford to remove the roof at the moment, but that is the plan for next summer. I weight 16 stone so I cant really get on the roof to seal on the top, although i may send the mrs up there while i instruct from a window.
is there anything i can buy to seal the roof joins, a colleague suggested me covering over the asbestos with the clear corrigated plastic sheeting as it was a similar profile to the exsisting corrigated asbestos. any advice is appreciated.
i bought some bitumen tar stuff in a tin that i painted over some of the leaky areas on the inside of the roof, this seemed to fix it (only has light rain since)
however after the heavy down pour last night i woke to find my garage floor soaking wet and water dripping through joins, the parts i painted were dry, it seemed to push the water to other place i had not painted.
I cant afford to remove the roof at the moment, but that is the plan for next summer. I weight 16 stone so I cant really get on the roof to seal on the top, although i may send the mrs up there while i instruct from a window.
is there anything i can buy to seal the roof joins, a colleague suggested me covering over the asbestos with the clear corrigated plastic sheeting as it was a similar profile to the exsisting corrigated asbestos. any advice is appreciated.
plumAJP said:
recently moved into a house with a asbestos garage roof. the roof is in good condition ie the asbestos sheets are whole and sturdy, but where each sheet overlaps or meets im getting water penetration.
i bought some bitumen tar stuff in a tin that i painted over some of the leaky areas on the inside of the roof, this seemed to fix it (only has light rain since)
however after the heavy down pour last night i woke to find my garage floor soaking wet and water dripping through joins, the parts i painted were dry, it seemed to push the water to other place i had not painted.
I cant afford to remove the roof at the moment, but that is the plan for next summer. I weight 16 stone so I cant really get on the roof to seal on the top, although i may send the mrs up there while i instruct from a window.
is there anything i can buy to seal the roof joins, a colleague suggested me covering over the asbestos with the clear corrigated plastic sheeting as it was a similar profile to the exsisting corrigated asbestos. any advice is appreciated.
I wouldn't even think of climbing on there - sounds dodgy. Rip the whole lot off and replace with corrigated plastic sheeting. I take it this is a pitched roof with corrigated asbestos cemement panels?i bought some bitumen tar stuff in a tin that i painted over some of the leaky areas on the inside of the roof, this seemed to fix it (only has light rain since)
however after the heavy down pour last night i woke to find my garage floor soaking wet and water dripping through joins, the parts i painted were dry, it seemed to push the water to other place i had not painted.
I cant afford to remove the roof at the moment, but that is the plan for next summer. I weight 16 stone so I cant really get on the roof to seal on the top, although i may send the mrs up there while i instruct from a window.
is there anything i can buy to seal the roof joins, a colleague suggested me covering over the asbestos with the clear corrigated plastic sheeting as it was a similar profile to the exsisting corrigated asbestos. any advice is appreciated.
yes it is a pitched asbestos corrigated roof, but as i said i cant afford to replace it at the moment, and when i do replace it i want to create some roof space so a trussed roof will be installed.
i dont want to waste money on plastic sheeting it when it all has to come off next march.
i wont be climbing on it or cracking it at all. i just want to know if theres a product out there that i can apply that will keep the water out for a few months
i dont want to waste money on plastic sheeting it when it all has to come off next march.
i wont be climbing on it or cracking it at all. i just want to know if theres a product out there that i can apply that will keep the water out for a few months
If the corrugated sheets are laid correctly there should not be any leakage. Is it possible that either the fixings are loose and water is getting through, or that there is dirt/moss between the overlap that might be causing water to wick to the inside? If the problem is loose fixings then a dab of sealant should suffice. If the material has become porous, then a coat of sealer should cure the problem.
Oh, and never stand on corrugated asbestos unless standing where the beams below are supporting it. It might seem sturdy enough but, will give no indication before breaking. One minute you'll be standing there feeling quite safe, the next, will have disappeared through hole in said material.
Oh, and never stand on corrugated asbestos unless standing where the beams below are supporting it. It might seem sturdy enough but, will give no indication before breaking. One minute you'll be standing there feeling quite safe, the next, will have disappeared through hole in said material.
Sounds like the sheets haven't been overlapped enough when they were fitted. If you don't want to start taking them off and moving htme about to correct it I'd think about buying a few new sheets of corrugated roofing, cutting them in half lengthways and using them to covering over the joins of the existing sheets. Maybe use the bitumen to stick them down.
For a bodge, and be warned, it's horrible stuff to put on as it's so sticky, try this:
http://www.denso.net/sylglas/wptape.htm
It does work and sticks to most things but it is a bodge but that won't bother you if the roof is coming off soon anyway. Alternatively perhaps flashing tape may work temporarily. It's a cheapskate's self-adhesive 'lead' flashing. Easier to put on but I'm not sure it'll stick well to a fibrous material like cement/asbestos sheets.
http://www.denso.net/sylglas/wptape.htm
It does work and sticks to most things but it is a bodge but that won't bother you if the roof is coming off soon anyway. Alternatively perhaps flashing tape may work temporarily. It's a cheapskate's self-adhesive 'lead' flashing. Easier to put on but I'm not sure it'll stick well to a fibrous material like cement/asbestos sheets.
it's more likely the corrugated asbestos sheeting is cracked in places hence the leaks. You can try painting on a thick roof sealer which has bits of fibre in it to help seal the joins, you can buy it at wickes about £20 a tin, it's grey in colour. It does work for about 6 months or so, before other cracks will appear.
I had the same problem and the tin of wickes stuff extended the roof life for about two years(painting it thickly on each time a new crack appeared) until I replaced the roof.
I had the same problem and the tin of wickes stuff extended the roof life for about two years(painting it thickly on each time a new crack appeared) until I replaced the roof.
I had the same problem,I used a all weather sealant from wickes http://www.wickes.co.uk/All-Weather-Sealant/invt/2... .if you can get a ladder on to the sides of the roof and see any visible crack seal them with the sealant and try to rub it into the crack , if is the overlapping joints inside the garage seal the joint form the inside and then rub into the joint. I did this last may when we had heavy showers and still no leaks, you may find that the water find a weak point but its just a case of sealing that area hope this helps.
My garage was like this and a builder/joiner/mate put a new galvanised corrugated sheet roof (powder coated green) over the old asbestos one. Has worked a treat for the last 10 years. The garage is much warmer, I don't get any damp or condensation (something it was plagued with before) and from the outside it looks much neater. It was also a much quicker and tidier job than removing the old roof!
Just found this thread as I'm having the same problems with my garage roof. Did you manage to find a sealant that worked?
Don't really want to rip the whole roof off if I'm honest (cost, access issues etc.). I don't think that it's leaking through the joints, I think there are cracks in actual corrugated panels. Do you think sealing from the inside would cure it?
Any advice appreciated!
Don't really want to rip the whole roof off if I'm honest (cost, access issues etc.). I don't think that it's leaking through the joints, I think there are cracks in actual corrugated panels. Do you think sealing from the inside would cure it?
Any advice appreciated!
Reload said:
Just found this thread as I'm having the same problems with my garage roof. Did you manage to find a sealant that worked?
Don't really want to rip the whole roof off if I'm honest (cost, access issues etc.). I don't think that it's leaking through the joints, I think there are cracks in actual corrugated panels. Do you think sealing from the inside would cure it?
Any advice appreciated!
No seal it from outside - If you get a tub of thick roof mastic like acropol, then use a soft head yard brush to apply it on to the roof you should be able to reach without actually getting on itDon't really want to rip the whole roof off if I'm honest (cost, access issues etc.). I don't think that it's leaking through the joints, I think there are cracks in actual corrugated panels. Do you think sealing from the inside would cure it?
Any advice appreciated!
blackcab said:
Reload said:
Just found this thread as I'm having the same problems with my garage roof. Did you manage to find a sealant that worked?
Don't really want to rip the whole roof off if I'm honest (cost, access issues etc.). I don't think that it's leaking through the joints, I think there are cracks in actual corrugated panels. Do you think sealing from the inside would cure it?
Any advice appreciated!
No seal it from outside - If you get a tub of thick roof mastic like acropol, then use a soft head yard brush to apply it on to the roof you should be able to reach without actually getting on itDon't really want to rip the whole roof off if I'm honest (cost, access issues etc.). I don't think that it's leaking through the joints, I think there are cracks in actual corrugated panels. Do you think sealing from the inside would cure it?
Any advice appreciated!
Would you recommend sealing the whole roof as oppose to just the cracked areas? Do you know how long it tends to last for before it would need re-sealing?
Cheers.
If you use a decent product and lay it thick it should last 5- 10 years, I would suggest doing the whole lot - will only take a couple of hours tops
We sell a product called Knight Shield that is made for asbestos coating - its about £200 a tub but lasts 15 years - there are others similar and cheaper available at roofing merchants - you need a good quality fibrated roof mastic / acrylic.
If its asbestos at moment dampen the roof down and give it a good sweep before you put anything on it, that will stop most of fibres from blowing around
We sell a product called Knight Shield that is made for asbestos coating - its about £200 a tub but lasts 15 years - there are others similar and cheaper available at roofing merchants - you need a good quality fibrated roof mastic / acrylic.
If its asbestos at moment dampen the roof down and give it a good sweep before you put anything on it, that will stop most of fibres from blowing around
I have not read the other replys, however i had the same issure as the op, i used expanding foam like this
http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&am...
4 years later still going strong
http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&am...
4 years later still going strong
Evening,
Thought I'd resurrect this thread rather than start a new one. Basically I have the same problem as the OP and need a quick fix. The leak is only small, but directly on to the unit that controls the electric garage door!
It's a double garage and I'm just mildly concerned about climbing on go the roof. The sheets look in ok nick, the leak is just where they overlap. It's reasonably well supported from underneath so I was thinking I'd get some chip board to help spread my weight out.
I'm just after some reassurance that someone else has done similar without any issues. Don't really fancy falling through my garage roof!
Cheers.
Thought I'd resurrect this thread rather than start a new one. Basically I have the same problem as the OP and need a quick fix. The leak is only small, but directly on to the unit that controls the electric garage door!
It's a double garage and I'm just mildly concerned about climbing on go the roof. The sheets look in ok nick, the leak is just where they overlap. It's reasonably well supported from underneath so I was thinking I'd get some chip board to help spread my weight out.
I'm just after some reassurance that someone else has done similar without any issues. Don't really fancy falling through my garage roof!
Cheers.
Without seeing your exact garage design - this is what I have just done. I have a well supported ridge that you may not have. Myself and next door have single garages that join in the middle with a dividing wall and a ridge line sat above it. The slope outwards is as you might imagine - minimal.
I borrowed a ladder which was rested on the ridge and ran down to the gutter line. I was then able to walk along it and lay down on it to apply the special resin/fibreglass paint (I got Evercryl at just under £40 a tin - two tins per side recommended - might get away with three on a double). 10 Year life claimed.
All the weight was supported on the four points of the ladder resting on the ridge and outer roof. And we are talking the best part of 20 stone including the ladder !!! Surprisingly comfy when you get settled up there in the sun.
(Neighbour has just produced a photo from 12 years ago when I was last up there and 5 stone lighter - just cleaned and tidied 40 years of muck and moss back then - so its had a long life already).
Pleased with result so far - but we need a winter ! Everywhere had one coat but went and did second thicker coat on bad cracks and breaks (although the tin recomended filling with ''Black Jack'' filler at the start). Recommend careful !! cleaning and moss killer etc at the start. And remove your pride and joy from below just in case !
I borrowed a ladder which was rested on the ridge and ran down to the gutter line. I was then able to walk along it and lay down on it to apply the special resin/fibreglass paint (I got Evercryl at just under £40 a tin - two tins per side recommended - might get away with three on a double). 10 Year life claimed.
All the weight was supported on the four points of the ladder resting on the ridge and outer roof. And we are talking the best part of 20 stone including the ladder !!! Surprisingly comfy when you get settled up there in the sun.
(Neighbour has just produced a photo from 12 years ago when I was last up there and 5 stone lighter - just cleaned and tidied 40 years of muck and moss back then - so its had a long life already).
Pleased with result so far - but we need a winter ! Everywhere had one coat but went and did second thicker coat on bad cracks and breaks (although the tin recomended filling with ''Black Jack'' filler at the start). Recommend careful !! cleaning and moss killer etc at the start. And remove your pride and joy from below just in case !
Thanks for the reply, but I don't think that will work for me. There is no ridge that I can use, the weight will have to be taken by the roof itself and the rafters underneath. The rafters themselves are pretty sturdy so I think if I spread the weight accross those I'm hoping it will be OK!
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