Real wood floor options ...
Discussion
2 Quick questions ...
I'm having the ground floor of my house redone with some kind of oak flooring and have the choice between real wood and engineered wood which seem to be about the same price. My fitter tells me he'd rather use engineered as it comes in longer lengths and can be more stable. Any opinions?
Also he's directing me towards Howden's range as being great value at literally half the price of other options. But is it half as good? Any experiences to share?
Thanks in advance.
df
PS: We're laying over both old floorboards with a plywood underboard and concrete in one room if that makes a difference.
I'm having the ground floor of my house redone with some kind of oak flooring and have the choice between real wood and engineered wood which seem to be about the same price. My fitter tells me he'd rather use engineered as it comes in longer lengths and can be more stable. Any opinions?
Also he's directing me towards Howden's range as being great value at literally half the price of other options. But is it half as good? Any experiences to share?
Thanks in advance.
df
PS: We're laying over both old floorboards with a plywood underboard and concrete in one room if that makes a difference.
I laid engineered Oak flooring in our living room two years ago. We have a concrete floor so it wasn't really an option to use solid. It clicked together like the cheaper laminate does, but has a bevelled edge on all four sides and the natural variation on each plank looks great, laid on top of a membrane damp barrier type underlay.
We got ours on the web from this place, there was a particular deal at the time so it cost about £1,400 for a 6 metre by 4 metre room:
http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/
We got ours on the web from this place, there was a particular deal at the time so it cost about £1,400 for a 6 metre by 4 metre room:
http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/
T1SRA said:
use real wood it will last many years,
In fairness if the 'real wood' is also tongue and groove then their is no reason why it will last any longer than decent enginered as both can only be sanded down as deep as the tongue and groove joint (a decent engineered wood will have the top surface wood until this point).You also have to ask yourself, how many times are your REALLY going to resand your floor, the chances you wont even do it once, let alone 5 or 6 times!
Edited by satans worm on Wednesday 21st October 08:11
your fitter may prefer engineered boards due to the ease of assembly (click fit joints, pre-treated surfaces etc) - the solid boards usually require more time-consuming fitting (glued or secret nailed), sanding, post-fitting surface treatment etc.
as for future sanding / repair possibilities, i'd always choose the solid boards, unless the engineered board has an unusually deep top layer - which many don't
engineered boards are often chosen for use in kitchens as they are more stable dimensionally if subject to moisture, but i'd personally always go for solid timber boards myself - with a lacquer finish rather than oiled
as for future sanding / repair possibilities, i'd always choose the solid boards, unless the engineered board has an unusually deep top layer - which many don't
engineered boards are often chosen for use in kitchens as they are more stable dimensionally if subject to moisture, but i'd personally always go for solid timber boards myself - with a lacquer finish rather than oiled
OldSkoolRS said:
I laid engineered Oak flooring in our living room two years ago. We have a concrete floor so it wasn't really an option to use solid.
Why?OldSkoolRS said:
We got ours on the web from this place, there was a particular deal at the time so it cost about £1,400 for a 6 metre by 4 metre room:
http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/
£58/m2 is quote expensive, no?http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/
monthefish said:
OldSkoolRS said:
I laid engineered Oak flooring in our living room two years ago. We have a concrete floor so it wasn't really an option to use solid.
Why?a concrete floor (with a laytex screed) is the perfect foundation for a solid floor
OP - for the same money I'd take the solid floor every time, your fitter is steeringyou down the route which is easier for him to install
as for it being more stable? that's nonsense
sleep envy said:
as for it being more stable? that's nonsense
Its not nonsense at all, an engineered floor will be more stable than a solid one, particularly if you are going over several different surfaces.You should also get the same number of sanding sessions from either type as you can only go down to the T&G part of the board, if you are buying a 20mm thick engineered floor you should find the top layer of timber is about 6mm, which is plenty.
I sell an incredible amout of each type every year & we have far less issues with engineered boards, mostly due to the fact that any problems you get with natural wood have been 'engineered' out of it...if you get my drift.
Your fitter sounds like a reasonable bloke, not so sure about Howdens though
Nick
Thanks for the feedback everyone.
I believe the real reason I'd like to go for Engineered wood is the much longer lengths it seems to be available in. I think that this would make less joins and a better finish for my application.
I'm going over to Howden's tomorrow to take a look - their product is under £20sqm compared with more than double that at other supposedly cheap outlets like floors2go or B&Q.
If you have any other suggestions for sources (I'm West Midlands based) I'd love to hear them.
df
I believe the real reason I'd like to go for Engineered wood is the much longer lengths it seems to be available in. I think that this would make less joins and a better finish for my application.
I'm going over to Howden's tomorrow to take a look - their product is under £20sqm compared with more than double that at other supposedly cheap outlets like floors2go or B&Q.
If you have any other suggestions for sources (I'm West Midlands based) I'd love to hear them.
df
monthefish said:
OldSkoolRS said:
I laid engineered Oak flooring in our living room two years ago. We have a concrete floor so it wasn't really an option to use solid.
Why?OldSkoolRS said:
We got ours on the web from this place, there was a particular deal at the time so it cost about £1,400 for a 6 metre by 4 metre room:
http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/
£58/m2 is quote expensive, no?http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/
I didn't pay anything like £58/m2 BTW......the figure I posted was from memory (might have been less, long since thrown the invoice) and it included other stuff like the underlay and solid Oak skirting to match which was bought from other places. I remember that we priced up loads of places (even quite remote from us as I travel with work) and the oiled finish was dearer/less common.
I went for an oiled finish as I was concerned that a laquer would need sanding and recoating where as I can reoil the floor occasionally to 'top up' the finish. I was also bothered that with the laquered finish it might be mistaken for laminate and that wouldn't have gone down well.
OldSkoolRS said:
I didn't pay anything like £58/m2 BTW......the figure I posted was from memory (might have been less, long since thrown the invoice) and it included other stuff like the underlay and solid Oak skirting to match which was bought from other places. I remember that we priced up loads of places (even quite remote from us as I travel with work) and the oiled finish was dearer/less common.
I went for an oiled finish as I was concerned that a laquer would need sanding and recoating where as I can reoil the floor occasionally to 'top up' the finish. I was also bothered that with the laquered finish it might be mistaken for laminate and that wouldn't have gone down well.
Good stuff. I went for an oiled finish as I was concerned that a laquer would need sanding and recoating where as I can reoil the floor occasionally to 'top up' the finish. I was also bothered that with the laquered finish it might be mistaken for laminate and that wouldn't have gone down well.
Pics?
first! OldSkoolRS said:
I was told I'd need to 'secret nail' a solid wood floor down and (apart from some underfloor pipework which could have caused problems) I thought that nailing into concrete wouldn't work. I didn't fancy adhesive as one day I know it will have to come up (I'd prefer a decent carpet myself, but my OH has wanted a wooden floor for years)
You don't need to nail or stick... just let it sit there... it will let it contact and expand slightly (as it will) without cracking. Skirting bpards will hide any gaps. (see above pic)monthefish said:
OldSkoolRS said:
I didn't pay anything like £58/m2 BTW......the figure I posted was from memory (might have been less, long since thrown the invoice) and it included other stuff like the underlay and solid Oak skirting to match which was bought from other places. I remember that we priced up loads of places (even quite remote from us as I travel with work) and the oiled finish was dearer/less common.
I went for an oiled finish as I was concerned that a laquer would need sanding and recoating where as I can reoil the floor occasionally to 'top up' the finish. I was also bothered that with the laquered finish it might be mistaken for laminate and that wouldn't have gone down well.
Good stuff. I went for an oiled finish as I was concerned that a laquer would need sanding and recoating where as I can reoil the floor occasionally to 'top up' the finish. I was also bothered that with the laquered finish it might be mistaken for laminate and that wouldn't have gone down well.
Pics?
My in-laws have engineered oak in their place (garden room, running into dining and kitchen) and in my opinion, it looks spot on, and not at all different to my friends who spent considerably more on the solid version.
I'd go with whatever is cheaper and easier.
Although it's like having a fake Rolex I suppose?
I have a fake Tag if that sways you?
I'd go with whatever is cheaper and easier.
Although it's like having a fake Rolex I suppose?
I have a fake Tag if that sways you?
It wasn't a question of price in our case. The engineered version cost more IIRC, due to us being lead to believe we couldn't fix it to our concrete floor. We had a sample of a friend's solid floor and it looks identical to ours (their floor is also oiled) so that swayed us.
I'm still hoping to go back to a carpet at some point though as it just doesn't seem as 'cosy' plus we've never managed to find a rug that we really like, so we've still got a cheap 'make do' one that we bought so our son had something to sit/play on rather than a hard floor.
I'm still hoping to go back to a carpet at some point though as it just doesn't seem as 'cosy' plus we've never managed to find a rug that we really like, so we've still got a cheap 'make do' one that we bought so our son had something to sit/play on rather than a hard floor.
OldSkoolRS said:
we've never managed to find a rug that we really like,
If you're ever in the Cotswolds (near Oxford) a mate of mine sells very lovely Tibettan rugs.http://www.alainrouveure.com/
Steve
Real wood, use Junkers. It 'clips' together with, well a clip.
This allows it to move freely, and you can lift it at a later time.
Engineered, use Kahrs. Clicks together, find it cheaper this http://www.wood-floor.co.uk/kahrs-oak/kahrs_main.s... place and you’re doing well.
Avoid rustic (cheep) French oak as it moves around.
Is long as it’s guaranteed with under floor heating, it will be stable.
This allows it to move freely, and you can lift it at a later time.
Engineered, use Kahrs. Clicks together, find it cheaper this http://www.wood-floor.co.uk/kahrs-oak/kahrs_main.s... place and you’re doing well.
Avoid rustic (cheep) French oak as it moves around.
Is long as it’s guaranteed with under floor heating, it will be stable.
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