Fitting a double-glazed window
Discussion
A neighbour is having some work done and I took the chance to liberate a sealed unit double glazed window that was being discarded. It's the right size and matches the others I've had done, so I can replace one of my useless old wooden windows for free.
However I'm not entirely sure how the old windows are fixed, nor the best way to fix the new one. I know I have to remove the plastic beading the get the glass units out, which will allow me to fit screws through the sides into the wall - but have I forgotten anything?
However I'm not entirely sure how the old windows are fixed, nor the best way to fix the new one. I know I have to remove the plastic beading the get the glass units out, which will allow me to fit screws through the sides into the wall - but have I forgotten anything?
Of course wood is more thermally efficient than uPVC... Although it is noted that the glazing in the units may not be as efficient as those in the newer unit.. i.e. single glazed as opposed to double..
As has been mentioned, if you used a FENSA registered fitter they would handle any Building Control issues for you, but if you get someone non-FENSA registered to fit them, then you should ideally involve Building Control..
As has been mentioned, if you used a FENSA registered fitter they would handle any Building Control issues for you, but if you get someone non-FENSA registered to fit them, then you should ideally involve Building Control..
jas xjr said:
V8mate said:
Simpo Two said:
...but have I forgotten anything?
Informing Building Control?I wasn't aware of an alternative to the FENSA Certification/Building Control regime.
V8mate said:
jas xjr said:
V8mate said:
Simpo Two said:
...but have I forgotten anything?
Informing Building Control?I wasn't aware of an alternative to the FENSA Certification/Building Control regime.
Defcon5 said:
You have to tell the government if you change your windows?
Only in Labour Britain...http://www.commercewindows.co.uk/industry-pvc-wind...
Since nobody else is answering your question John.........
Take out the old window without damaging the reveal. I find it easiest to break the glass and then colapse the old frame into itself.
Remove the glass from the 'new' window by rmoving the beads with a blunt chisel.
Look at the reveal and if the cavity is closed just plug and screw the new window to the surround. Suggest some pilot holes in the frame because the replacement may have a steel reinforcement inside it.
However, in a 60's 0r 70's house you may find that the timber window acted as a cavity closer. In that case find a window manufacturing firm and scrounge some offcuts of the pvc frame, 3" or 4" lengths. Cut these to be an interference fit accross the cavity. Use them as strakes to screw into, through your new frame.
Unless the window is big there's no need to fix top and bottom. bed it on silicone and use a packing piece under the middle of the glass top and bottom to apply some pressure to the frame.
Tap the beads back in and seal the edges of the frame to the wall with silicone.
I've done this dozens of times with no problem. Used windows are a real bargain IMHO. Never bothered about building control or FENSA and if you sell the house your solicitor will arange an indemnity for you.
Hope that helps.
Take out the old window without damaging the reveal. I find it easiest to break the glass and then colapse the old frame into itself.
Remove the glass from the 'new' window by rmoving the beads with a blunt chisel.
Look at the reveal and if the cavity is closed just plug and screw the new window to the surround. Suggest some pilot holes in the frame because the replacement may have a steel reinforcement inside it.
However, in a 60's 0r 70's house you may find that the timber window acted as a cavity closer. In that case find a window manufacturing firm and scrounge some offcuts of the pvc frame, 3" or 4" lengths. Cut these to be an interference fit accross the cavity. Use them as strakes to screw into, through your new frame.
Unless the window is big there's no need to fix top and bottom. bed it on silicone and use a packing piece under the middle of the glass top and bottom to apply some pressure to the frame.
Tap the beads back in and seal the edges of the frame to the wall with silicone.
I've done this dozens of times with no problem. Used windows are a real bargain IMHO. Never bothered about building control or FENSA and if you sell the house your solicitor will arange an indemnity for you.
Hope that helps.
Thanks chap 
The replacement unit, seen below, just seems to butt up to the inner wall:
So basically, shove it into the hole from the outside as far as it will go, with generous amounts of silicone sealant, and secure with three of these chaps on each side?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16018/Fixings/Window...
52classic said:
Take out the old window without damaging the reveal. I find it easiest to break the glass and then colapse the old frame into itself.
You mean prise/smash the glass out and then saw through the frames from inside the aperture? 52classic said:
Look at the reveal and if the cavity is closed just plug and screw the new window to the surround. Suggest some pilot holes in the frame because the replacement may have a steel reinforcement inside it.
However, in a 60's 0r 70's house you may find that the timber window acted as a cavity closer. In that case find a window manufacturing firm and scrounge some offcuts of the pvc frame, 3" or 4" lengths. Cut these to be an interference fit accross the cavity. Use them as strakes to screw into, through your new frame.
The house is 1988 - however I took some photos when the bathroom window was replaced and that appears to show a small cavity:However, in a 60's 0r 70's house you may find that the timber window acted as a cavity closer. In that case find a window manufacturing firm and scrounge some offcuts of the pvc frame, 3" or 4" lengths. Cut these to be an interference fit accross the cavity. Use them as strakes to screw into, through your new frame.
The replacement unit, seen below, just seems to butt up to the inner wall:
So basically, shove it into the hole from the outside as far as it will go, with generous amounts of silicone sealant, and secure with three of these chaps on each side?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16018/Fixings/Window...
Engineer1 said:
As you are adding another double glazed window I would wack it in and then let people assume it was done at the same time as the rest.
I agree. You say that it matches the other windows you have. Are these covered by a Fensa cert or not? If they were fitted before a cert was needed then don't worry.mk1fan said:
I agree. You say that it matches the other windows you have. Are these covered by a Fensa cert or not? If they were fitted before a cert was needed then don't worry.
Three of them are - but I intend to leave this house in a box so I really don't care about bits of paper. We spend too much of our lives living in society-created fear.For taking the window out - Yes, you've got the point. take off the hinges, saw thro' the frame and fold toward the middle.
Point with fixing is that as long as you get a couple of those fixings into the brickwork you're home and dry.
What about the cill? looks like you will need one in that type of construction. I fit the cill to the window before fitting but I've heard of some people fixing the cill to the bricks then the window to the cill.
Point with fixing is that as long as you get a couple of those fixings into the brickwork you're home and dry.
What about the cill? looks like you will need one in that type of construction. I fit the cill to the window before fitting but I've heard of some people fixing the cill to the bricks then the window to the cill.
Fensa hahahahahahhahaha.
Our last house had new upvc french windows in the lounge. On a splayed 2-storey height bay, 1930's lead roof, that kind of thing.
3 bits of shiny new plastic french window replacing the downstairs bay window, expertly installed by a professional window firm. Unfortunately they also removed the original 1930's steel designed to hold the whole of the bloody first floor up, replacing it with plastic and aluminium 'glazing systems'.
You could stand in the upstairs bay, jump up and down on the floor, and watch the window cill and the brick bay wobbling like jelly. Or nearly get your hand into the gaps appearing in the brickwork.
They'd attempted 'remedial' work, which entailed hacking off damaged first floor plaster, and rendering instead. Why render I hear you ask? Well, to prevent a house splitting in half 'cos you chopped out 80 year old steelwork, don't phone a structural engineer, or even your optician, what you do is render-in chicken wire around the bay and onto the main house walls to try to stop the whole first floor bay and most of the back of the house falling into the garden.
It was a cheap house, bought 'requiring major structural works'. Mainly down to the approved national window fitters the elderly couple had employed before they snuffed it.
Fensa-approved installation can also include fitting an entire (admittedly non-opening) window upside down so the drain holes were at the top. And that was one WE paid for. Genius.
My choice would be to avoid the hassle and extra cost, do it DIY and get an indemnity for peanuts when you do sell.
Our last house had new upvc french windows in the lounge. On a splayed 2-storey height bay, 1930's lead roof, that kind of thing.
3 bits of shiny new plastic french window replacing the downstairs bay window, expertly installed by a professional window firm. Unfortunately they also removed the original 1930's steel designed to hold the whole of the bloody first floor up, replacing it with plastic and aluminium 'glazing systems'.
You could stand in the upstairs bay, jump up and down on the floor, and watch the window cill and the brick bay wobbling like jelly. Or nearly get your hand into the gaps appearing in the brickwork.
They'd attempted 'remedial' work, which entailed hacking off damaged first floor plaster, and rendering instead. Why render I hear you ask? Well, to prevent a house splitting in half 'cos you chopped out 80 year old steelwork, don't phone a structural engineer, or even your optician, what you do is render-in chicken wire around the bay and onto the main house walls to try to stop the whole first floor bay and most of the back of the house falling into the garden.
It was a cheap house, bought 'requiring major structural works'. Mainly down to the approved national window fitters the elderly couple had employed before they snuffed it.
Fensa-approved installation can also include fitting an entire (admittedly non-opening) window upside down so the drain holes were at the top. And that was one WE paid for. Genius.
My choice would be to avoid the hassle and extra cost, do it DIY and get an indemnity for peanuts when you do sell.
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