How to sharpen an axe?
Discussion
Its not complicated, spray some wd40 or a bit of oil (or spit if you are hard up)
draw the axe head across the stone (or the stone across the axe) on both sides.
should have two angles on the blade - the angle of the head then the last couple of mil a steeper angle (the cutting angle)
I stick the thing in a vice and then use an angle grinder...gently!
On a side note I have broken two Hickory handles in two weeks! Have now resorted to a fibre glass shaft...ooh err! but it's crap as it does not have a curve to it or slide through your hands like a decent Hickory handle. I think I need to refine my technique somewhat!
On a side note I have broken two Hickory handles in two weeks! Have now resorted to a fibre glass shaft...ooh err! but it's crap as it does not have a curve to it or slide through your hands like a decent Hickory handle. I think I need to refine my technique somewhat!
Edited by markh1 on Wednesday 2nd December 09:11
You don't want it too sharp for splitting wood, the idea is to split the fibres apart rather than cut them. Obviously you need a bit of an edge but a truely sharp axe will need more effort to split wood than a slightly blunt one.
markh1 said:
On a side note I have broken two Hickory handles in two weeks! Have now resorted to a fibre glass shaft...ooh err! but it's crap as it does not have a curve to it or slide through your hands like a decent Hickory handle. I think I need to refine my technique somewhat!
You need to watch more Ray Mears, he demonstrated how to make your own handle the other week.P924 said:
After the edge penetrates the wood, the wood should be pushed apart by the cheeks of the blade. The edge is only used for the initial cut.
Which is why a wood splitting axe has a very steep curve and a lot of weight in the head, where as a tree felling axe deisnged for cutting deep, has a light head, that you can swing at an angle, it also has a very shallow curve and from balde to back is about 1 inch very gradually so the blade goes in as opposed to pushing the wood apart. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grind
Use a file (b
d or No2) to form a 5 or 6 (it doesnt have to be exact) always move the file in the direction of cut to avoid burrs, if your axe is use for splitting it doesnt need to be razor sharp.
Use a file (b
d or No2) to form a 5 or 6 (it doesnt have to be exact) always move the file in the direction of cut to avoid burrs, if your axe is use for splitting it doesnt need to be razor sharp.I'm a decent log chopper - probably from lots of golf.... however a couple of years ago I bought an electric log splitter. Absolutely love it! Having so often struggled with that 'difficult log' (ho ho!) that seems to be present in every session and refusing to split - I can now split away to my hearts content!
Something like this:
http://www.northerntooluk.com/forestry-and-logging...
I also have a special stick for stirring paint.
Don't worry.
I'll let myself out.
netherfield said:
All you saying buy wedges, by the time you have fked around putting on in before the big hit you could have split three others with the proper tool.No idea why anyone isn't listening to me, I have split tons of wood (lots of tons) in my time.
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