Kitchen lighting - electrician advice needed
Discussion
Hi
I'm in the process of gutting a flat I've just bought. One thing the gf and I would really like are spotlights in the kitchen ceiling.
We have a concrete ceiling and would have to board the ceiling to fit downlights.
Can someone please tell me if there is a certain gap between the original ceiling and the one I install to house the spotlights? I've been told that is is 130mm but want to ratify that answer.
Are there any links that I can read up on this subject?
Cheers, Chris
I'm in the process of gutting a flat I've just bought. One thing the gf and I would really like are spotlights in the kitchen ceiling.
We have a concrete ceiling and would have to board the ceiling to fit downlights.
Can someone please tell me if there is a certain gap between the original ceiling and the one I install to house the spotlights? I've been told that is is 130mm but want to ratify that answer.
Are there any links that I can read up on this subject?
Cheers, Chris
get led ones, you can get seriously bright ones now, use hardly any power, dont blow all the time, we have had some running 24 hours a day for about a year and a half. you can hold the light in your hand when there running, so no heat issues, slightly more expensive to buy, but could be cheaper in the long run
A GU10 or low voltage downlight will NOT get to 200 degrees.
The maximum temperature you should see on the downlight case is around 120 degrees C - This is with a 50W bulb so you can always reduce it to 35W if you're that concerned about the heat.
If you make sure that the downlights you're looking at carry the "F Mark" they will be suitable for mounting directly into a normally flamable surface such as wood.
50mm breathing space around the rear of the downlight is all that is required, just to give it some breathing space and prevent it from cooking itself.
As you're fitting these into a false ceiling that is below a concrete one, there is no need to go with a "Fire rated / Flameguard / Fireguard" type downlight. A simple, basic open-backed downlight will be perfectly adequate.
However, a fire rated downlight is enclosed at the rear so will help prevent any draught or dust getting into the kitchen.
LED Downlights can be quite good but for anything offering a true alternative to a Halogen bulb, you're looking at £60 ish per light. Even then they're only equivilent to a 35W halogen and the light is very "grey" and lacking in warmth. For a kitchen ceiling where under-cupboard lights are alos used, they may be suitable.
Good LED bulbs will fit a GU10 downlight and the best LED "bulbs" are available from Philips and Megaman. Collingwood have an LED Downlight that has integrated LEDs but when an LED fails you'll have to change the entire downlight.
- Phil (Technical manager of a leading downlight manufacturer)
The maximum temperature you should see on the downlight case is around 120 degrees C - This is with a 50W bulb so you can always reduce it to 35W if you're that concerned about the heat.
If you make sure that the downlights you're looking at carry the "F Mark" they will be suitable for mounting directly into a normally flamable surface such as wood.
50mm breathing space around the rear of the downlight is all that is required, just to give it some breathing space and prevent it from cooking itself.
As you're fitting these into a false ceiling that is below a concrete one, there is no need to go with a "Fire rated / Flameguard / Fireguard" type downlight. A simple, basic open-backed downlight will be perfectly adequate.
However, a fire rated downlight is enclosed at the rear so will help prevent any draught or dust getting into the kitchen.
LED Downlights can be quite good but for anything offering a true alternative to a Halogen bulb, you're looking at £60 ish per light. Even then they're only equivilent to a 35W halogen and the light is very "grey" and lacking in warmth. For a kitchen ceiling where under-cupboard lights are alos used, they may be suitable.
Good LED bulbs will fit a GU10 downlight and the best LED "bulbs" are available from Philips and Megaman. Collingwood have an LED Downlight that has integrated LEDs but when an LED fails you'll have to change the entire downlight.
- Phil (Technical manager of a leading downlight manufacturer)
Edited by Goochie on Monday 14th December 12:48
The other thing to think about when doing a kitchen is where the doors will sit when open. I once saw an installation that had a very low ceiling - the (chipboard) door had been left open, directly under a downlight and had been damaged as a result.
Normally you should allow 500mm space between the downlight and anything that is going to be placed under it (top of cupboards, cupboard doors etc.)
Normally you should allow 500mm space between the downlight and anything that is going to be placed under it (top of cupboards, cupboard doors etc.)
Goochie said:
The other thing to think about when doing a kitchen is where the doors will sit when open. I once saw an installation that had a very low ceiling - the (chipboard) door had been left open, directly under a downlight and had been damaged as a result.
Normally you should allow 500mm space between the downlight and anything that is going to be placed under it (top of cupboards, cupboard doors etc.)
Just done a job with maccassar ebony wardrobe doors which go from floor to a plinth.Normally you should allow 500mm space between the downlight and anything that is going to be placed under it (top of cupboards, cupboard doors etc.)
Big, well known lighting designer knowing the door size specced halogens.
Housekeeper left door ajar.
Newly refurbished flat now with odour de ebony.
OldSkoolRS said:
V12Les said:
Just in case your not aware...when cutting the holes, keep them 600mm off the wall.
Sorry to butt in, but why is this (doing our kitchen in the new year and are planing downlights too)?Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff