Discussion
jp1982 said:
As per the title looking for some rat poison. Just wondering if anybody has a recommendation as to brand/type and whats most effective as there are loads on google and would sooner go on a personal recommendation.
Thanks
I'd get a pro in rather than DIY, rats are clever things and are better to be targeted to specific cases. eg if they have a plentiful supply of dry foods there is no reason for them to eat posioned grain, however they might like the moisture from gel's or liquids. A pro would likely advise on how to prevent further visits and why you have them in the first place. In some areas pest control are aware of resistances to certain poisons so you might be fighting a losing battle on your own!Thanks
That said to answer your question "Tomcat" is a brand I have heard to be effective, however as with all poisions it should be stressed that placement is paramount so it is only available to the target species. (Dog's are partial to Rat Poison but the two don't agree). Stuff well down holes if they're visable and put in the middle of secured lenghts of drain pipe or similar (out of reach of dogs). Rats don't like new things so if possible use stuff already there.
Good luck which ever route you go down.
Simpo Two said:
Anything sufficiently dangerous to kill rats properly wouldn't be sold to the public - just like agrochemicals and pharmaceuticals.
Tesco etc may sell a cute pack of 'Rat-be-gone' (ingredients: soap, fragrance) but don't expect it to work!
Wrong, for any hardware store will supply several different types of rat poison quite capable of killing rats and humans, so should be handle with care.Tesco etc may sell a cute pack of 'Rat-be-gone' (ingredients: soap, fragrance) but don't expect it to work!
The way to place down rat poison, is to place two breeze blocks down on the ground with another breeze block on top of the two breeze blocks, so leaving a cavity underneath for placing the rat poison, this allowing the rat to enter.
I have had lots of success with a wire rat cage and glue rat traps.
Wings said:
Wrong, for any hardware store will supply several different types of rat poison quite capable of killing rats and humans
Well that surprises me in today's nanny state, when ioxynil, a humble lawn herbicide very good at kiling clover, was banned by PRSD in about 1987.As chemicals go, the usual order of 'safety' is:
Fungicides
Herbicides
Insecticides
The reason is the biological similarity between the target organism and humans. We are distant from fungi, but relatively close to insects. And of course very close to other mammals - so anything that kills a rat will kill humans.
Warfarin - what else?
Everything you need here:
http://www.pestcontroldirect.co.uk/
A dog eating a poisoned rat is highly unlikely to ingest enough poison to do any harm, at least according to my vet.
The safest way is with a bait box and bait blocks with a hole down the middle that can't be removed from the box. I use Tomcat2 for rats and mice. Traps will catch young rats but older ones are usually too canny to get caught. Sticky traps are a last resort, they are a horrible way to kill anything, even a rat, in my opinion. The downside with bait is that it usually takes several days to work (a deliberate safety measure in case of accidental ingestion, according to the manufacturers) and the rat will go and die somewhere quiet and then smell horrible for some time. Mice usually don't smell so no problem.
Just remember, if you see a rat in the daytime, you are likely to have a serious infestation.
http://www.pestcontroldirect.co.uk/
A dog eating a poisoned rat is highly unlikely to ingest enough poison to do any harm, at least according to my vet.
The safest way is with a bait box and bait blocks with a hole down the middle that can't be removed from the box. I use Tomcat2 for rats and mice. Traps will catch young rats but older ones are usually too canny to get caught. Sticky traps are a last resort, they are a horrible way to kill anything, even a rat, in my opinion. The downside with bait is that it usually takes several days to work (a deliberate safety measure in case of accidental ingestion, according to the manufacturers) and the rat will go and die somewhere quiet and then smell horrible for some time. Mice usually don't smell so no problem.
Just remember, if you see a rat in the daytime, you are likely to have a serious infestation.
Slaymor is the stuff you need. Rat`s just can`t get enough of the stuff. The best way to dispense it is in a bit of gear they sell which is a horizontal tube with another clear vertical tube sticking up out of it in the middle. Pop the Slaymor into the vertical tube, lid on the top then as the rats eat dinner the level drops and you can see how they are getting on.
A high powered compressed air rifle is also very rewarding
Henry
A high powered compressed air rifle is also very rewarding
Henry
Wings said:
I have had lots of success with a wire rat cage and glue rat traps.
Sticky paper is what I've used many times. Not in the UK, but over in the Philippines. Last time I took the family over we bought our own from a store, as there were rats in the hotel!!It is about the size of A4 paper, really sticky on one side, you throw a little food in the middle, Mr rat tries to get the food, becomes bogged down in the glue and rolls around squealing until you tap him on the head with a beer bottle. Peel him off, throw him in the bin, and put the paper back with fresh bait.
Don't hit him too hard though, as the blood and brains go everywhere.
King Herald said:
Don't hit him too hard though, as the blood and brains go everywhere.
Very good point. When I found a (particularly large) mouse in our kitchen a couple of years back it was dispatched with a good wallop from a rolled-up magazine. And I was ASTONISHED at the mess it made. Blood, brains and guts everywhere. (At which point the cat suddenly took quite a lot of interest. As compared to earlier - she had scarpered when the thing was still alive ... )
Oli.
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