Boxing in Pipework
Author
Discussion

robsartain

Original Poster:

144 posts

196 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
I thought I would just throw it out there as someone may have found a better way or a pre made product that does the job.

Basically its boxing in the waste, hot/cold water and some feed/return rad pipes in a bathroom. Its all low level so just above skirting height.

I was going to just use MDF and paint it. Is there a better way or can you buy pre made L shaped wood I could use. (hope that makes sense)

Just wanted to do a neat job of it.


cjs

11,275 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
MDF may not be the best as it could soak up water, is it likely to get very wet?

Simpo Two

89,689 posts

283 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
Two bits of MDF would be my way too (and a wall batten). The only bit to watch for is the corner joint as you don't want the join to show - suggest you buy the MDF where they can cut it to size for you; that you way you get perfect edges.

cinque

833 posts

300 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
Batton it out with decent lengths of timber, then use marine ply or WBP to box in.

Box it tight enough to make a neat job, but leave enough room for expansion and contraction of pipework.

Before tiling (if you're going that route) PVA the ply beforehand.

Use wood screws every few inches or so to fix the ply.

You might want to think about access in case of pipe blockage? (If its only a short run - ignore this).

Edited by cinque on Tuesday 9th February 10:17

Gingerbread Man

9,173 posts

231 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
Don't use MDF in a bathroom.

Are you tiling the bathroom floor to ceiling?

robsartain

Original Poster:

144 posts

196 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
Firstly there is no corners. One length will go into the toilet cistern box and the second length goes to a corner where there is a cupboard.

The boxing won`t be tiled as Im only tiling around the shower/bath.

I don`t forsee any water going on the boxing apart from the odd splash, someone with a bad aim at the toilet or the pipe itself splitting.

As stated I was going to use a wall batton and fix it that way. I like the idea of pre-cut MDF will save me a load of hassle.

I have had a quick look on the net and found a few pre made boxes. At that kind of price I wouldn`t be able to make it any cheaper + my time. Anyone had any experience with this type of product ? I just need the L shape.

http://www.ukboxings.co.uk/prices.php


eps

6,586 posts

287 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
I would use ply, if you're looking to use sheet.. not MDF. Something quite thick. Should be lighter, cheaper, more durable and you should be able to easily hold a panel in place with screws for access.

cjs

11,275 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
I can understand you going down the MDF route if you're just painting (as you said in your OP but no one read!)

Give it some good coats of gloss paint and it should withstand some splashing, just be ready to repaint or replace at some point, especially if people have a bad aim!

Edited by cjs on Tuesday 9th February 12:41

FlossyThePig

4,133 posts

261 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
Gingerbread Man said:
Don't use MDF in a bathroom.
You can get exterior grade MDF.

In the '80s there was plan based kitcar that used 'Medite' as part of the bodywork.

Peter Benson Plywood Ltd said:
Medite Exterior is an MDF panel developed specifically for use in a wide range of external applications in accordance with MDF-H2 as defined in EN 622 part 5 and gives all the design freedom of Standard MDF.

Finsa Exterior Grade MDF Its use is recomended for external applications or in areas of exposure to climatic changes. Pay special atention to seal correctly edges and surfaces with a sufficient coat of external paint.

DAVE-W

544 posts

229 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
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Much easier solution than building the boxing etc yourself....try these.....

http://www.pendock.co.uk/Housing/Home.aspx?id=861

We spec. them on commercial projects and I actually used the domestic pipework casings on my parent's house recently.

Dave

Simpo Two

89,689 posts

283 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
cjs said:
I can understand you going down the MDF route if you're just painting (as you said in your OP but no one read!)
I did smile

MDF has no grain that will show through paint and no splinters to break out. Unless you breed elephant seals in your bathroom, it will do the job fine.

Ferg

15,242 posts

275 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
cjs said:
I can understand you going down the MDF route if you're just painting (as you said in your OP but no one read!)
I did smile

MDF has no grain that will show through paint and no splinters to break out. Unless you breed elephant seals in your bathroom, it will do the job fine.
Got to disagree with this John. I work for a builder who insists on MDF boxings in bathrooms etc and if I go back on maintenance jobs 5 years later it's a shambles. It swells when wet, horribly.

My Top Tip
Box pipes at low level with plastic soffit and fascia off cuts. The top can be done with the 1" fascia with a rounded front edge as seen used for windowboards, and the upright front is done with soffit which fits into the groove on the underside of the fascia. Easy to cut, wipe clean, marvellous!

Simpo Two

89,689 posts

283 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
Ferg said:
My Top Tip
Box pipes at low level with plastic soffit and fascia off cuts. The top can be done with the 1" fascia with a rounded front edge as seen used for windowboards, and the upright front is done with soffit which fits into the groove on the underside of the fascia. Easy to cut, wipe clean, marvellous!
Nice idea - and the rounded edge avoids the need for an exposed butt joint.

WHen I did my bathroom I used Contiboard for the upright and 12mm travertine (as per the walls) across to the wall batten. You could also use Contiboard for the top, taking advantage of the laminated edge.

TVR1

5,470 posts

243 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
This Sir,

http://www.buywedi.co.uk/tilebacker-products scroll the page down a bit.

Is what you are after.

jules_s

4,829 posts

251 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
DAVE-W said:
Much easier solution than building the boxing etc yourself....try these.....

http://www.pendock.co.uk/Housing/Home.aspx?id=861

We spec. them on commercial projects and I actually used the domestic pipework casings on my parent's house recently.

Dave
That would have been my suggestion too....quite pricey though

King Herald

23,501 posts

234 months

Tuesday 9th February 2010
quotequote all
Ferg said:
My Top Tip
Box pipes at low level with plastic soffit and fascia off cuts. The top can be done with the 1" fascia with a rounded front edge as seen used for windowboards, and the upright front is done with soffit which fits into the groove on the underside of the fascia. Easy to cut, wipe clean, marvellous!
Beat me to it. I have several long offcuts of the 6" x 1" fascia angle plastic stuff, that I simply can't bring myself to throw away, as it looks so useful. I'm sure it could be made into window sills, or some other use.

Or pipe boxing. biggrin