Electricians rates
Discussion
Come on fellas.
It's not that unreasoanble to at least get a ballpark figure for what sounds like a days work.
What does a spark and his mate charge for a days work nowadays??
ps..I have a spark coming round my house to quote for a similar job tonight. Involves a move of the fuebox from the kitchen to the understair cupboard though.
What I'm really worried about it the quote I get back from YEDL to change my meter position and the run of supply cable clipped to the side of the house, I'll start lubing up now I think.
It's not that unreasoanble to at least get a ballpark figure for what sounds like a days work.
What does a spark and his mate charge for a days work nowadays??
ps..I have a spark coming round my house to quote for a similar job tonight. Involves a move of the fuebox from the kitchen to the understair cupboard though.
What I'm really worried about it the quote I get back from YEDL to change my meter position and the run of supply cable clipped to the side of the house, I'll start lubing up now I think.
As well as replacing the Consumer Unit, he will also have to test the installations he will be connecting to it so you will require a periodic inspection. The condition of the existing installation will have an impact on the price. It is difficult to give you an accurate idea without seeing it for myself but I could give you a rough budget allowance.
- How old is the existing installation?
- Is there good space to work around the consumer unit?
- Is there anything you think looks a little dodgy?
- Has the installation been modified (extensions, conservatory, fitted kitchen)?
- Do you want the cable to the loft chased in/concealed or would you accept trunking?
Edited by Ganglandboss on Tuesday 8th June 16:07
We charge £500 for a new board, upgrade of incoming meter tails and upgrade of earthing if required. A full test of the house electrics with releveant certificates. Any remedial works are charged out at £30 per hr. Socket in the loft would depend like the post above says. If it was a bungalow you would be looking about £30
Hope that helps.
PS try to specify a board that will leave you with a few spare mcbs for future upgrades. Its worth the extra 20 odd quid now instead of additional units later
Hope that helps.
PS try to specify a board that will leave you with a few spare mcbs for future upgrades. Its worth the extra 20 odd quid now instead of additional units later
Well my man came in with £300-£350.
That's a new board, in different location.
Run cables outside in trunking to existing board location (this is temporary - the cables won't be connected yet).
Test existing installation.
Come back when I get my kitchen demolished and joint up and reroute under the new floor.
He's also getting all the associate work relating to my new extension based on today, he was a decent bloke.
Not bad that really, another bloke quoted double that.
That's a new board, in different location.
Run cables outside in trunking to existing board location (this is temporary - the cables won't be connected yet).
Test existing installation.
Come back when I get my kitchen demolished and joint up and reroute under the new floor.
He's also getting all the associate work relating to my new extension based on today, he was a decent bloke.
Not bad that really, another bloke quoted double that.
Martin. "Remove old style fuse box"
This normally means the installation is not to standard, or "dated". So just doing a consumer unit swap is not the simple job you think.
This work has to be registered, so will quite often have a knock on effect.
For labour only you could get the work done for £200 - £250, from a self employed guy that may or may not be able to cert. £300 to £350 plus VAT from a proper company.
It is a b
d when customers supply the gear (except specialist or decorative materials). This is because they are after a cheap job & get cheap gear. It is not always complete. The customer does not know whats needed with what. The electrician has to keep going back & forth for stupid things.
I have just done 1 of those jobs. We are still running around now. I dont mind as we get more money for less.
Good luck.
This normally means the installation is not to standard, or "dated". So just doing a consumer unit swap is not the simple job you think.
This work has to be registered, so will quite often have a knock on effect.
For labour only you could get the work done for £200 - £250, from a self employed guy that may or may not be able to cert. £300 to £350 plus VAT from a proper company.
It is a b
d when customers supply the gear (except specialist or decorative materials). This is because they are after a cheap job & get cheap gear. It is not always complete. The customer does not know whats needed with what. The electrician has to keep going back & forth for stupid things.I have just done 1 of those jobs. We are still running around now. I dont mind as we get more money for less.
Good luck.
Thanks for the (sensible) replies chaps.
The house dates back to the mid 80's and as far as I'm aware all the electrics are original. There is a fair amount of room around the existing fuse box which, at a rough estimate, is a 6-7 metre run from where the boiler will be. I'd prefer the wiring to be as inconspicuous as possible but as the boiler will be mounted on the gable end wall of the loft could the wire be run up the outside wall?
I know it's very difficult to give accurate info unless you have seen the house but I'm just trying to get an idea of a ball-park figure before the spark comes in and does an estimate.
Cheers
ETA. Knowing that alot of sparks use Screwfix and as we occasionally use them at work, I toyed with the idea of getting the consumer unit from them. Looking at the catalogue though there seems to be a huge array of units available so perhaps I am best off getting whoever does it buy it.
The house dates back to the mid 80's and as far as I'm aware all the electrics are original. There is a fair amount of room around the existing fuse box which, at a rough estimate, is a 6-7 metre run from where the boiler will be. I'd prefer the wiring to be as inconspicuous as possible but as the boiler will be mounted on the gable end wall of the loft could the wire be run up the outside wall?
I know it's very difficult to give accurate info unless you have seen the house but I'm just trying to get an idea of a ball-park figure before the spark comes in and does an estimate.
Cheers
ETA. Knowing that alot of sparks use Screwfix and as we occasionally use them at work, I toyed with the idea of getting the consumer unit from them. Looking at the catalogue though there seems to be a huge array of units available so perhaps I am best off getting whoever does it buy it.
Edited by MartinM on Wednesday 9th June 18:37
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