Screeding for block paving.
Author
Discussion

taz turbo

Original Poster:

683 posts

273 months

Thursday 17th June 2010
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So I'm almost ready to start laying my block paving, does anyone have any advise on laying the screed. My concerns are on the best way to put the trammels in the grit sand before dragging the top flat.

Should I whacker plate the sand down something like but plus on height, then place the trammels in and whacker them to my desired height, string levels etc. Or should it be some grit sand then trammels then more grit sand?

Google doesn't really give much info, just examples of trammels already fitted, then removed and filled and good to go.

Your recommendations please.

Chris.

zollburgers

1,284 posts

206 months

Thursday 17th June 2010
quotequote all
Have a read of the relevant page on the best source of block paving knowledge in existence:

http://pavingexpert.com/screeding.htm

They have a forum too. My mate does block paving for a living but he's not available at the minute otherwise I would ask him...

TheEnd

15,370 posts

211 months

Thursday 17th June 2010
quotequote all
sand first, then wacker the lot, set your rails in and screed over the top.

That way you have the compacted sand level without any marks or ridges from the wacker.

zollburgers

1,284 posts

206 months

Thursday 17th June 2010
quotequote all
TheEnd said:
sand first, then wacker the lot, set your rails in and screed over the top.
That sounds like an army chant.

TheEnd

15,370 posts

211 months

Thursday 17th June 2010
quotequote all
i don't know but i've been told,
whack your sand then set your poles
screed you sand so nice and flat
drop your block on top of that

when you reach the end, you'll heard me sing
i wanna be your new block paver..


pacman1

7,324 posts

216 months

Thursday 17th June 2010
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Bloke up the road from me has just laid a beautiful drive. He only used sand to brush in afterwards.
Just whackered 3-dust and laid on top. He said that laying on any sand always resulted in the sand 'running away' to some degree.

Simpo Two

91,107 posts

288 months

Thursday 17th June 2010
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FWIW the ants are busy bringing up remarkable quanities of sand from underneath paving and pavements these last few days - which can only lead to subsidence in the long run.

King Herald

23,501 posts

239 months

Friday 18th June 2010
quotequote all
TheEnd said:
sand first, then wacker the lot, set your rails in and screed over the top.

That way you have the compacted sand level without any marks or ridges from the wacker.
Whacking sand?? I've tried that, it don't work. It just digs a hole down and moves the sand away, like a liquid.

When our back yard was done the guys whacked down the rubble and stuff underneath, but laid the sand by hand, scraped it smooth with their long alloy strips, then laid the blocks directly onto the sand. Then whacked again after the blocks were down.


zollburgers

1,284 posts

206 months

Friday 18th June 2010
quotequote all
There are several different techniques, read the link I posted, it explains them.

King Herald

23,501 posts

239 months

Friday 18th June 2010
quotequote all
zollburgers said:
There are several different techniques, read the link I posted, it explains them.
Ahh, I see now. Our guys didn't do it that way. scratchchin




Phil C

430 posts

298 months

Friday 18th June 2010
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The really important bit is to make sure the edges are properly cemented in and also what you put under the sand. We've got 4" depth of scalpings underneath the sand and it's done the trick.

m3jappa

6,883 posts

241 months

Friday 18th June 2010
quotequote all
Lay the sand down so its pretty flat with no big dips, compact the sand once, twice if its a kiddy wacker.

It has to be dry and not soaking wet otherwise it will be like slop.

Lay in the bars and pull lines to appropriate levels, set bars, screed off, pull out bars, float in sand where bars were (compacting down with the float as you go) .

If you dont lay the whole area and you think its going to rain then cover it up as the screed will get ruined.

Lay blocks etc etc.

Its easy but thats also the reason theres so much crap paving about as literally anyone can do it but doing it right is another story.

sal 965

586 posts

234 months

Saturday 19th June 2010
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M grade sand as the bed and silica sand to brush into the joints and you should be fine

taz turbo

Original Poster:

683 posts

273 months

Saturday 19th June 2010
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Thanks for all the advise. I now have the 20T of grit sand down vibrated plated it once. I'm not happy with the timber I have for trammels so will pick up some 20 or 25mm steel conduit Monday.

I will post some pictures when Iv'e finished, but don't expect it to be too soon there is 240M2 to lay!

So far I have dug down 12" except the heavy traffic areas (mouth of drive etc) where I dug down 14", MOT type 1 in 2" layers whacker plated 3 times per layer, 50mm of compacted grit sand. So as I said, next to drag the top level, it's not that bad currently, over my 3M straight edge the biggest deviation is ~8mm. I do look forward to completion.

Last question...... How long for the blisters to heal.rofl All works were carried out manually, I really didn't want to dig out any of the service, all of which I uncovered except the power incomer.

zollburgers

1,284 posts

206 months

Saturday 19th June 2010
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I see you are based in the NW, as is my block paving mate. Not to blow his trumpet but he does a very good job (KGC paving, search on that site I posted for references). If it all becomes too much, or you get stuck, post on here and I'll ask him to ring you to offer proper advice.

jeebus

445 posts

207 months

Sunday 20th June 2010
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You should make more than one pass with the wacker plate, you should keep going over the grit sand until you dont leave any footprints behind when you walk on it.