Underfloor heating
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Discussion

furtive

Original Poster:

4,501 posts

302 months

Tuesday 12th October 2010
quotequote all
Does anyone know how easy /expensive it is likely to be to retrofit wet underfloor heating to a single room in an existing house with a concrete floor?

Failing that, how expensive is electric underfloor heating to run in the real world?

The room in question is a kitchen/diner that is 5.84m x 4.34m

mrmaggit

10,146 posts

271 months

Tuesday 12th October 2010
quotequote all
Easy, just done exactly that.

Polypipe do an 18mm thick rigid board that takes 12mm pipe, comes as a set complete with manifold to plumb into your existing system.

They do soft boards if you're laying laminates or carpet on, and rigid cement type boards for tiling over.

www.polyplumb.co.uk

Look at the "overlay" part.

Very popular with our 2 cats!

furtive

Original Poster:

4,501 posts

302 months

Tuesday 12th October 2010
quotequote all
Excellent, will take a look. Thanks.

What sort of cost would I be looking at? I assume the manifold can be stuck in the cupboard under the stairs or somewhere like that to hide it away?

And what depth am I looking at ending up with the board, pipe, and tiled floor?

Edited by furtive on Tuesday 12th October 13:21

mrmaggit

10,146 posts

271 months

Tuesday 12th October 2010
quotequote all
furtive said:
Excellent, will take a look. Thanks.

What sort of cost would I be looking at? I assume the manifold can be stuck in the cupboard under the stairs or somewhere like that to hide it away?

And what depth am I looking at ending up with the board, pipe, and tiled floor?

Edited by furtive on Tuesday 12th October 13:21
We put our manifold on a board under the boiler, and our plumber connected it up. Unfortunately there is a problem with the electrics on the pumps (from an earlier plumber, nowt to do with the u/f) and an air lock in the old system, but it shouldn't take long to correct.
The boards are 18mm thick, then the thickness of the tile adhesive, then the tile thickness. We ended up losing 30mm in height on ours.
But, the floor is now lovely and warm to walk on, and the cats who we couldn't get off the chairs, now lie all over the floor, so we trip over them. Not sure which was worst, not sitting in the chair or getting scratched by the cat when catching them with my feet!

Don't use the electric ones unles it was you with the numbers on friday!

Emsman

7,202 posts

213 months

Tuesday 12th October 2010
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The electric systems aren't too bad on running costs- ceramic insulates heat really well so it can be set to be in/off every half hour or so to keep the heat up.
If it's to be your only heating system and you have the option of wet heating, do it.
If you have a supplementary system to heat the room, don't write off the electric system.

furtive

Original Poster:

4,501 posts

302 months

Tuesday 12th October 2010
quotequote all
Thanks. It'll be the only heating in the room as we want to remove the rads to free up wall space in the kitchen.

Ferg

15,242 posts

280 months

Tuesday 12th October 2010
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You'll notice mrmaggit mentioned the manifolds fitted under the boiler. This may or may not be appropriate in your system. Wet Underfloor Heating must be run from the boiler flow and returns via a seperate zone. This may involve at least one pipe being run to the airing cupboard.

mrmaggit

10,146 posts

271 months

Wednesday 13th October 2010
quotequote all
Our boiler/hot water tank/manifold are all in the airing cupboard!

The house was built that way. wink

When we bought the house, we spent a couple of months re-doing all the bathroom/central heating system but couldn't afford to do the kitchen. So I got the plumber to arrange everything so it was all accessible (no gate valves behind the cylinder etc) to plug stuff into as we wanted to at a later date. I also got the plumber to mount the boiler onto some wooden planks that were bolted vertically to the wall so that the manifolds etc that would come later had somewhere to be fixed. It has certainly paid off, as it has been a doddle to connect the u/f in, and has even left us with some spare space to store stuff.

Ferg

15,242 posts

280 months

Wednesday 13th October 2010
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Not fixed DIRECTLY to wood, I hope.....

mrmaggit

10,146 posts

271 months

Wednesday 13th October 2010
quotequote all
Ferg said:
Not fixed DIRECTLY to wood, I hope.....
The boiler is bolted to the planks, yes. Well, the case for the boiler is, should I say.

Ferg

15,242 posts

280 months

Wednesday 13th October 2010
quotequote all
Boiler must be fixed to a non-combustible surface. 1/2 hour fire rated if I remember correctly.

mrmaggit

10,146 posts

271 months

Thursday 14th October 2010
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Oh.

Well three plumbers have now seen it (the one that installed it, the one that services it and the one connecting the uf) and none has said anything about that.

Edited by mrmaggit on Thursday 14th October 07:33

Ferg

15,242 posts

280 months

Thursday 14th October 2010
quotequote all
mrmaggit said:
Oh.

Well three plumbers have now seen it (the one that installed it, the one that services it and the one connecting the uf) and none has said anything about that.
LOL!!