How to replace Central Heating controller
Discussion
Hopefully a quick one - We have a Baxi Solo boiler and an ACL LS241 controller - how difficult is it, or would it be, to replace the controller?
It's this one:
And is it expensive to do so (can I do it myself?) - Does anyone have a recommendation?
Cheers
JTW
It's this one:
And is it expensive to do so (can I do it myself?) - Does anyone have a recommendation?
Cheers
JTW
Edited by james_tigerwoods on Monday 8th November 18:04
james_tigerwoods said:
And is it expensive to do so (can I do it myself?)
No, and probably not. Bit of a minefield unless you know what you're doing. There are several different kinds of CH system and they're all wired up differently. I got stuck on mine but luckily knew the MD of a boiler company who came over and helped me figure it out!Simpo Two said:
james_tigerwoods said:
And is it expensive to do so (can I do it myself?)
No, and probably not. Bit of a minefield unless you know what you're doing. There are several different kinds of CH system and they're all wired up differently. I got stuck on mine but luckily knew the MD of a boiler company who came over and helped me figure it out!
They all come with wiring diagrams - but finding which wire end up where is not so easy.
Even assuming a simple TRV (three way valve) system you end up having to learn how it works (i.e. the boiler + pump are controled by the TRV which is controlled by the controller, and don't forget the mysterious return wire from the tank stat!
I'd see if ACL do a better controller that just plugs in - many controllers have a plug/socket arrangement - so contact ACL and ask about upgrades.
Even assuming a simple TRV (three way valve) system you end up having to learn how it works (i.e. the boiler + pump are controled by the TRV which is controlled by the controller, and don't forget the mysterious return wire from the tank stat!
I'd see if ACL do a better controller that just plugs in - many controllers have a plug/socket arrangement - so contact ACL and ask about upgrades.
Globulator said:
They all come with wiring diagrams - but finding which wire end up where is not so easy.
Even assuming a simple TRV (three way valve) system you end up having to learn how it works (i.e. the boiler + pump are controled by the TRV which is controlled by the controller, and don't forget the mysterious return wire from the tank stat!
I'd see if ACL do a better controller that just plugs in - many controllers have a plug/socket arrangement - so contact ACL and ask about upgrades.
I've just had a response from the manufacturer and the Drayton LP241 is a direct replacement - and is available from Screwfix for the Princely sum of £49.99 Even assuming a simple TRV (three way valve) system you end up having to learn how it works (i.e. the boiler + pump are controled by the TRV which is controlled by the controller, and don't forget the mysterious return wire from the tank stat!
I'd see if ACL do a better controller that just plugs in - many controllers have a plug/socket arrangement - so contact ACL and ask about upgrades.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/86838/Plumbing/Centr...
Simpo Two said:
Let the fun begin!
No fear - I'll buy it (as the manufacturer state that it's a like for like replacement) and get someone in to fit it...I'm no emsman!
(Although I did learn the hard way at the weekend why it is that you wear goggles when using an Angle Grinder - the bruise just above my eye is a testament to that...)
I've found this:
http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/acl-drayton...
Which suggests that I can keep the same back plate - that suggests that I can pull the one I have and put the new one in place.
http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/acl-drayton...
Which suggests that I can keep the same back plate - that suggests that I can pull the one I have and put the new one in place.
If it is the same as the current ACL backplate you will see two small screws on the bottom edge about 60mm apart. Unscrew these until they are sticking out far enough to clear the bottom of the unit and it will hinge upwards until you can unhook it from two points on the top edge.
The backplate will have 6 terminals across the top with 'N' extreme left followed by 'L' and numbers 1 through 4.
Best to turn off the power first to be honest.
The backplate will have 6 terminals across the top with 'N' extreme left followed by 'L' and numbers 1 through 4.
Best to turn off the power first to be honest.
Edited by Ferg on Monday 8th November 18:51
You'll have to contact your CH controller manufacturer but my Danfoss was just a slide-off/replace jobbie. That said, I did have my plumber come in to do it; I'd rather pay him for 30 minutes' work than f
k up the entire system by guessing/hoping and have to pay him for a day's work...
k up the entire system by guessing/hoping and have to pay him for a day's work...james_tigerwoods said:
No fear - there's no way I'm doing this myself, but I do want to make sure that I'm not going to get done....
The manufacturer has stated that the LP241 will slot straight on top of the LS241 but I wanted to check with the PH collective intelligence first!
If you're not sure, email the manufacturer. I'm sure they'll happily advise.The manufacturer has stated that the LP241 will slot straight on top of the LS241 but I wanted to check with the PH collective intelligence first!
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