Valves that don't leak
Discussion
Can anyone recommend a valve that doesn't leak? I need to replace yet another one at home, this time it's the main incoming water supply in the loft. It's a brass fitting with the bar-type handle that rotates (not a lever).
The same type is used as the feed into the CW storage tank & it leaks, & the type with the red circular pattern handle on the supply form the tank also leaks.
Of are valves just crap & one should expect them to leak & shut-up?
Ta.
The same type is used as the feed into the CW storage tank & it leaks, & the type with the red circular pattern handle on the supply form the tank also leaks.
Of are valves just crap & one should expect them to leak & shut-up?
Ta.
All valves will leak eventually.
In the main there are three type available:
A stopcock is used on MAINS pressure water, normally cold only, but not always. Sounds like your 'brass bar' type is one.
A gatevalve is designed for use on lower pressures. The red wheel type. These are not as good for sealing shut as stopcocks.
A lever valve. Good on both the above. 90degree operation. Also in small versions for screwdriver operation as isolators on ballvalves and taps.
Both stopcocks and gatevalves will leak from the gland (below the head) if not maintained. Easy to stop. This will vary with quality. Lever valves tend not to have a gland which is serviceable and if they drip from here (or around the screw on an isolating valve) would be best in the scrap bin. A few have serviceable glands.
Hard water scale is particularly bad for levers, isolators and gatevalves.
In the main there are three type available:
A stopcock is used on MAINS pressure water, normally cold only, but not always. Sounds like your 'brass bar' type is one.
A gatevalve is designed for use on lower pressures. The red wheel type. These are not as good for sealing shut as stopcocks.
A lever valve. Good on both the above. 90degree operation. Also in small versions for screwdriver operation as isolators on ballvalves and taps.
Both stopcocks and gatevalves will leak from the gland (below the head) if not maintained. Easy to stop. This will vary with quality. Lever valves tend not to have a gland which is serviceable and if they drip from here (or around the screw on an isolating valve) would be best in the scrap bin. A few have serviceable glands.
Hard water scale is particularly bad for levers, isolators and gatevalves.
Ferg said:
All valves will leak eventually.
In the main there are three type available:
A stopcock is used on MAINS pressure water, normally cold only, but not always. Sounds like your 'brass bar' type is one.
A gatevalve is designed for use on lower pressures. The red wheel type. These are not as good for sealing shut as stopcocks.
A lever valve. Good on both the above. 90degree operation. Also in small versions for screwdriver operation as isolators on ballvalves and taps.
Both stopcocks and gatevalves will leak from the gland (below the head) if not maintained. Easy to stop. This will vary with quality. Lever valves tend not to have a gland which is serviceable and if they drip from here (or around the screw on an isolating valve) would be best in the scrap bin. A few have serviceable glands.
Hard water scale is particularly bad for levers, isolators and gatevalves.
Yep, the bar type is a stop-cock.In the main there are three type available:
A stopcock is used on MAINS pressure water, normally cold only, but not always. Sounds like your 'brass bar' type is one.
A gatevalve is designed for use on lower pressures. The red wheel type. These are not as good for sealing shut as stopcocks.
A lever valve. Good on both the above. 90degree operation. Also in small versions for screwdriver operation as isolators on ballvalves and taps.
Both stopcocks and gatevalves will leak from the gland (below the head) if not maintained. Easy to stop. This will vary with quality. Lever valves tend not to have a gland which is serviceable and if they drip from here (or around the screw on an isolating valve) would be best in the scrap bin. A few have serviceable glands.
Hard water scale is particularly bad for levers, isolators and gatevalves.
The water is very hard, but should only affect the mains, as the water tank feed is via a softener.
Gonna go with a Peggler lever valve, as i have a few in the "store" & are good for mains pressure.
Thanks to this & for the other replies chaps.
Simpo Two said:
What's the internal differnce between gate valve and stopcock, apart from different handles?
Neither of them seem to be have been improved since Roman times. Why does anyone use them now that lever ball valves have been invented?
Gate valve is metal on metal, except the gland. Stopcock and ball valve have rubber/plastic seals, which perish, plus glands.Neither of them seem to be have been improved since Roman times. Why does anyone use them now that lever ball valves have been invented?
Edited by Simpo Two on Saturday 13th November 14:58
Simpo Two said:
What's the internal differnce between gate valve and stopcock, apart from different handles?
Neither of them seem to be have been improved since Roman times. Why does anyone use them now that lever ball valves have been invented?
Because lever ball valves wear just as badly and are not repairable. Laziness in maintenance doesn't make a design obsolete. Neither of them seem to be have been improved since Roman times. Why does anyone use them now that lever ball valves have been invented?
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