Cutting laminate floor while in situ
Discussion
I have been slowly working around the house removing laminate flooring from each room.
Now I have 2 rooms left, but I have a problem I am planning to have a carpet put in before Xmas, but the laminate flow is currently down between a living/dining room.
I am only replacing the carpet in the living room as double doors are being installed to form 2 rooms.
The laminate floor is continuous through both rooms, with the main joins running at 90degrees (perpendicular) to the doorway.
What's the best/ neatest way of cutting the floor while still laid down?
Now I have 2 rooms left, but I have a problem I am planning to have a carpet put in before Xmas, but the laminate flow is currently down between a living/dining room.
I am only replacing the carpet in the living room as double doors are being installed to form 2 rooms.
The laminate floor is continuous through both rooms, with the main joins running at 90degrees (perpendicular) to the doorway.
What's the best/ neatest way of cutting the floor while still laid down?
If you've got a circular saw with a height adjustment, I'd be tempted to use that with a long piece of wood as your straight edge screwed to the old side of the floor.
If not, maybe a router with the same setup?
I think you can get special reciprocating saws as well for cutting the architrave horizontally in situ for so the flooring slides underneath - I don't see any reason why this couldn't be used the other way round?
HTH
If not, maybe a router with the same setup?
I think you can get special reciprocating saws as well for cutting the architrave horizontally in situ for so the flooring slides underneath - I don't see any reason why this couldn't be used the other way round?
HTH
Thanks.. The door opening is just over 2m wide. so really need it to look neat until we get the dining room done.
Bit worried about the Circular Saw when there is concrete underneath. I do not want to accelerate myself accross the floor at breakneck speed if it catchs. Also the underlay used by the previsous owner is as thin as tin foil.
Bit worried about the Circular Saw when there is concrete underneath. I do not want to accelerate myself accross the floor at breakneck speed if it catchs. Also the underlay used by the previsous owner is as thin as tin foil.
Kuroblack350 said:
If you are desperate, and lack any DIT skill at all - you can use an angle grinder with a brick cutting disc. I wouldn't recommend it though as it's insanely dificult to get any edge at all, and it will set every smoke alarm off for 20 miles
My DIY skills are okish. I would also choose a circular saw with depth stop to do the bulk of the work. If you set the depth of cut to be exactly the same as the thickness of the laminate it cannot touch the concrete beneath, but add another 0.5mm if you feel the need to be certain.
As mentioned it will leave a short section uncut at each end, which no ordinary saw will get into due to the angle with the wall. The Fein as mentioned is expensive for a one-off job; however it may be worth buying the Bosch Multitool which can be had for about £60 if it only has two blades.
Angle grinders are deeply unsuitable for cutting wood; they burn, leave an ugly cut and are best left to what they were designed for, metal and stone.
As mentioned it will leave a short section uncut at each end, which no ordinary saw will get into due to the angle with the wall. The Fein as mentioned is expensive for a one-off job; however it may be worth buying the Bosch Multitool which can be had for about £60 if it only has two blades.
Angle grinders are deeply unsuitable for cutting wood; they burn, leave an ugly cut and are best left to what they were designed for, metal and stone.
cjs said:
stevieb said:
cjs said:
Is there any reason why you are not carpeting over the laminate floor?
Doesnt seem right to do that. Also with new underlay (22mm) and a carpet which 15mm thick. I do not want to lose my skirting boards. Use a floorboard saw like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001K9Z3C/ref=asc_df_B...
Work your way along keeping just off the concrete, the last millimetre or so you can cut with a Stanley knife.
If you've taken up all the laminate as close as you can to where you want to cut, wedge a couple of pieces of 2x1 under it to make the cut easier.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001K9Z3C/ref=asc_df_B...
Work your way along keeping just off the concrete, the last millimetre or so you can cut with a Stanley knife.
If you've taken up all the laminate as close as you can to where you want to cut, wedge a couple of pieces of 2x1 under it to make the cut easier.
I would, and have, used a standard electric jigsaw to do similar things before where a circular saw can't get into the tight angles at the ends.
Obviously if you a DIY mong you should not attempt the following as it involves using a tool in a manner that probably it's not supposed to be.
as I have done before:
Draw a line on the floor.
Take you generic cheapy electric jigsaw with a fresh straight blade, possiblly one of those which finishes with a tooth rather than a pointed end.
Position saw blade close to start of drawn line, holding the saw at a suitable angle to floor and power up.
Now slowly move blade end towards the line and angle the electric saw until the blade start to touch and sink into the wood surface. As you touch the wood it will slowly cut into the floor.
Once you think you have the blade angled in deep enough to cut through the laminate, slowly drag the angled saw watching the blade to ensure it stays on the line.
Complete cut, possibly turning saw round at the other end in the tight angle of the wall.
Don't cut too deep
If you haven't quite cut deep enough, try again.
This has worked for me many times
Circular saws and the like are great, but they can't get anywhere near into a 90 degree angle.
Obviously if you a DIY mong you should not attempt the following as it involves using a tool in a manner that probably it's not supposed to be.
as I have done before:
Draw a line on the floor.
Take you generic cheapy electric jigsaw with a fresh straight blade, possiblly one of those which finishes with a tooth rather than a pointed end.
Position saw blade close to start of drawn line, holding the saw at a suitable angle to floor and power up.
Now slowly move blade end towards the line and angle the electric saw until the blade start to touch and sink into the wood surface. As you touch the wood it will slowly cut into the floor.
Once you think you have the blade angled in deep enough to cut through the laminate, slowly drag the angled saw watching the blade to ensure it stays on the line.
Complete cut, possibly turning saw round at the other end in the tight angle of the wall.
Don't cut too deep
If you haven't quite cut deep enough, try again.
This has worked for me many times
Circular saws and the like are great, but they can't get anywhere near into a 90 degree angle.
Piersman2 said:
Obviously if you a DIY mong you should not attempt the following as it involves using a tool in a manner that probably it's not supposed to be.
Yes! I would do that as a last resort but unless you have a very steady gentle hand you'll get a hell of a kick and probably break the blade and possibly hurt yourself.Simpo Two said:
Piersman2 said:
Obviously if you a DIY mong you should not attempt the following as it involves using a tool in a manner that probably it's not supposed to be.
Yes! I would do that as a last resort but unless you have a very steady gentle hand you'll get a hell of a kick and probably break the blade and possibly hurt yourself.Piersman2 said:
Simpo Two said:
Piersman2 said:
Obviously if you a DIY mong you should not attempt the following as it involves using a tool in a manner that probably it's not supposed to be.
Yes! I would do that as a last resort but unless you have a very steady gentle hand you'll get a hell of a kick and probably break the blade and possibly hurt yourself.
This is what you need:
http://www.base.com/buy/product/exakt-saw/dgc-gad-...
A bit pricey for one job but you may be able to hire one. Failing that, i think b&q do them. Just take it back when you are done, tell them its crap and demand a refund
http://www.base.com/buy/product/exakt-saw/dgc-gad-...
A bit pricey for one job but you may be able to hire one. Failing that, i think b&q do them. Just take it back when you are done, tell them its crap and demand a refund
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