Glass Splash Backs
Discussion
Yes basically you template the wall the same as you would when templating granite work surfaces. Been looking for some pictures of a kitchen we did last year but they must be on the other computer. Beware it is expensive!! One way of cutting costs is to have less sockets. You can get sockets that drop down into the cupboards and pull up or ones that sit on the work surface at a angle
We have glass tiles for our splashback
http://uk.saint-gobain-glass.com/b2c/default.asp?n...
There aren't many good images on that site but they're quite cheap and can be cut....we have sockets set into the tiles.
http://uk.saint-gobain-glass.com/b2c/default.asp?n...
There aren't many good images on that site but they're quite cheap and can be cut....we have sockets set into the tiles.
I have glass splashbacks and love them. 6mm toughened normal (not low-silica) glass because I wanted the green glass effect, white sprayed reverse (you can have any colour you like), bevelled and polished, two long bits and one small bit, two socket cutouts and a few angles and curves in galley-style kitchen: £600.
Fantastic; if you're in East Anglia I'll give you the supplier.

Fantastic; if you're in East Anglia I'll give you the supplier.
Fun Bus said:
I've often wondered if condensation gets behind the splashbacks, dries and then shows watermarks?
Doesn't work like that. Because the glass is usually spray-painted on the back, you can't see through it and so you don't have to make the wall behind perfect. Fix in place with a bead of low modulus clear silicone sealant, done. It's as easy as that 
Edited by Simpo Two on Sunday 9th January 22:09
Rags said:
What have you done to combat this?
The glass has a slight ability to bend especially on a long run but obviously for best results you need a wall that's flat or almost flat. Mine went on very well; if your wall is uneven you could fill small gaps with sealant (I went round mine with a bead of sealant anyway). Here's a curve:
It will be toughened as part of the process - which is why it can't be cut afterwards - so will have a little 'give' in it. I'm guessing using silicone to attach it while bent it would spring back after a while.
Cut, bevelled, toughened, special paint applied to reverse, then a coat of thicker black stuff on ours (10mm bathroom tops). Not cheap tho'.
Cut, bevelled, toughened, special paint applied to reverse, then a coat of thicker black stuff on ours (10mm bathroom tops). Not cheap tho'.
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