A small tip for those about to fix burst pipes!
Discussion
When about to repair a burst pipe (in my case to an outside tap I failed to drain in time), check the whole length of the pipe for damage before starting.
That will save you experiencing what I did today. Fixed the burst beautifully with a new bit of pipe, two connectors and a blowtorch, put the water back on and watched it pissing out of another hole a few inches to the right
That will save you experiencing what I did today. Fixed the burst beautifully with a new bit of pipe, two connectors and a blowtorch, put the water back on and watched it pissing out of another hole a few inches to the right

Simpo Two said:
When about to repair a burst pipe (in my case to an outside tap I failed to drain in time), check the whole length of the pipe for damage before starting.
That will save you experiencing what I did today. Fixed the burst beautifully with a new bit of pipe, two connectors and a blowtorch, put the water back on and watched it pissing out of another hole a few inches to the right
Doh!That will save you experiencing what I did today. Fixed the burst beautifully with a new bit of pipe, two connectors and a blowtorch, put the water back on and watched it pissing out of another hole a few inches to the right

All fixed now though?
Flintstone said:
All fixed now though?
Yes, I just had to do everything twice and pillage extra fittings from a neighbour... had I found the second burst before doing the first, I could have done it all in one go with one length of pipe and two connectors not four.Perhaps somebody needs to invent either a pipe that can 'give' a bit under the strain of expanding ice, or some kind of sacrificial connection that gives to relieve pressure and can easily be redone. Would replacing the copper with plastic solve the problem?
Simpo Two said:
Flintstone said:
All fixed now though?
Yes, I just had to do everything twice and pillage extra fittings from a neighbour... had I found the second burst before doing the first, I could have done it all in one go with one length of pipe and two connectors not four.Perhaps somebody needs to invent either a pipe that can 'give' a bit under the strain of expanding ice, or some kind of sacrificial connection that gives to relieve pressure and can easily be redone. Would replacing the copper with plastic solve the problem?
My house has been undergoing an extension for the last 3-4 months so has stood with no heating on through the coldest december in history.
- 4 split copper pipes
- 2 plastic push fits popped off under floorboards
- Boiler sprung a leak
- Brand new Mira shower thermostatic cartridge blew the end off (replace FOC - Cheers Mira)
I thought it was all drained down...I was wrong.
I also found out yesterday that your copper main incoming supply pipe shouldn't be anywhere near cement. Cue me taking up part of the newly laid floor to break out the oversite (a lot of which is very cementy gobbo) and release said pipe and properly protect it from such nastiness.
Had similar experience this winter, but it was the plumber that had to deal with it all.
Thanks to new ownership of a vintage house, I've been discovering things that were hidden. This winter it was a significant run of hot & cold pipes that were left unlegged and essentially open to the elements (roughtly 15ft's worth).
The -20C temps did their worst and caused a burst, so plumber was called out as he owes me, and lives locally. He fixes the obvious leak and calls for me to turn on the water. Cue, more water jetting out of another bust on an adjacent pipe. Repeat a further 3 times!!
I have that phonecall to make today to lodge all the insurance claim paperwork. Cost me a small fortune to get it fixed in the run up to Christmas.
Dr Rick
Thanks to new ownership of a vintage house, I've been discovering things that were hidden. This winter it was a significant run of hot & cold pipes that were left unlegged and essentially open to the elements (roughtly 15ft's worth).
The -20C temps did their worst and caused a burst, so plumber was called out as he owes me, and lives locally. He fixes the obvious leak and calls for me to turn on the water. Cue, more water jetting out of another bust on an adjacent pipe. Repeat a further 3 times!!
I have that phonecall to make today to lodge all the insurance claim paperwork. Cost me a small fortune to get it fixed in the run up to Christmas.
Dr Rick
dave_s13 said:
I've found, to my deep dismay, that plastic tends not to split (although I'm sure it can) but it just pops off the push fit conections.
Fortunately the inside of my house seems pretty good - I'm always here, and if I was on holiday over winter I'd leave the heating on low. The only issue is the outside tap pipe if I don't drain it in time.If a push-fit outside acts as a deliberate weak spot and can be simply reconnected rather than needing a blowtorch, then it seems a good idea to me.
dave_s13 said:
I've found, to my deep dismay, that plastic tends not to split (although I'm sure it can)
I found that the right-angled plastic joins can split apart in cold weather - i will never ever have that nasty plastic cr8p in my house again. Happened to me just before Xmas, resulting in a new ceiling and water everywhere
.. and yep also had a problem with another leak further along the pipework - though luckily i asked the plumber chap to fit an isolator valve for the circuit, just in case.Edited by fido on Monday 10th January 14:38
Simpo Two said:
dave_s13 said:
I've found, to my deep dismay, that plastic tends not to split (although I'm sure it can) but it just pops off the push fit conections.
Fortunately the inside of my house seems pretty good - I'm always here, and if I was on holiday over winter I'd leave the heating on low. The only issue is the outside tap pipe if I don't drain it in time.If a push-fit outside acts as a deliberate weak spot and can be simply reconnected rather than needing a blowtorch, then it seems a good idea to me.
In my case it stripped the thread off the screwcap so it buggered the whole fitting. To be fair they are probably not designed to be sat full of water in -12c for extended periods of time.
neither are thermostatic cartridges in shower units. My new one popped the end off the plastic housing, ice formation must have some impressive forces involved with it.
Edited by dave_s13 on Monday 10th January 19:27
I felt the cold draft (pun intended) of a burst just pass me by a few weeks ago. Toilet cistern didn't fill, set up a heater and hair dryer to blow under the floorboards and luckilyit started flowing with no sign of damage. Just as well, we had a burst pipe claim in the exact same spot a few years ago which got me to wondering how I could arrange for some warm air to flow through there permanently.
Flintstone said:
I felt the cold draft (pun intended) of a burst just pass me by a few weeks ago. Toilet cistern didn't fill, set up a heater and hair dryer to blow under the floorboards and luckilyit started flowing with no sign of damage. Just as well, we had a burst pipe claim in the exact same spot a few years ago which got me to wondering how I could arrange for some warm air to flow through there permanently.
Or just lag the pipes?NB: I hope you survived your spell in the Army; otherwise it's a draught

I've seen an engine block on an pre-war Austin 7 with the core plugs sitting on top of little columns of ice like some sort of mushroom. The cooling system didn't have any form of thermostat in the design so, with nothing to hinder the circulation, the radiator simply made the water colder and colder.
Flintstone said:
I felt the cold draft (pun intended) of a burst just pass me by a few weeks ago. Toilet cistern didn't fill, set up a heater and hair dryer to blow under the floorboards and luckilyit started flowing with no sign of damage. Just as well, we had a burst pipe claim in the exact same spot a few years ago which got me to wondering how I could arrange for some warm air to flow through there permanently.
I remember reading about that, and seeing the pics of your emergency fix setup... Was hugely impressed with the ingenuity! 
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