Velux type roof window ?
Discussion
Unless your in a conservation area or listed building then in theory you don't need permission.
I'm pretty sure its "As long as the window projects no more than 50mm from the original roof pitch" or words to that affect.
I'm pretty useless with my hands, but with the help of a mate - who also is pretty useless we fitted 2 in a day.
Worst part was getting the frames up to the loft. As we only had a hatch we physically couldn't get the windows up in to the loft from inside. So had to rope them up externally.
Cracking bit of kit!!!! Everything goes together very well and the instructions are easy to follow.
I even phoned the help line a couple of times and they were helpful too.
So in answer to your question, no you don't need a double glazing firm, yes a general builder will easily fit them.
Depending on your needs for the window, i.e. if its for a new bedroom etc make sure the cill height is no greater than 1100mm from floor level and its top hung for means of escape!
I'm pretty sure its "As long as the window projects no more than 50mm from the original roof pitch" or words to that affect.
I'm pretty useless with my hands, but with the help of a mate - who also is pretty useless we fitted 2 in a day.
Worst part was getting the frames up to the loft. As we only had a hatch we physically couldn't get the windows up in to the loft from inside. So had to rope them up externally.
Cracking bit of kit!!!! Everything goes together very well and the instructions are easy to follow.
I even phoned the help line a couple of times and they were helpful too.
So in answer to your question, no you don't need a double glazing firm, yes a general builder will easily fit them.
Depending on your needs for the window, i.e. if its for a new bedroom etc make sure the cill height is no greater than 1100mm from floor level and its top hung for means of escape!
Oh forgot to mention............
Have a look around your area and look at velux windows.
The worst part of the job is getting the supplied flashings nicely under the adjacent tiles. Some trimming etc of the tiles maybe neccessary!
Its only a small point but time consuming. As I said have a look around your local area (Roof tile type) and you should understand what I mean!
Have a look around your area and look at velux windows.
The worst part of the job is getting the supplied flashings nicely under the adjacent tiles. Some trimming etc of the tiles maybe neccessary!
Its only a small point but time consuming. As I said have a look around your local area (Roof tile type) and you should understand what I mean!
herbialfa said:
Depending on your needs for the window, i.e. if its for a new bedroom etc make sure the cill height is no greater than 1100mm from floor level and its top hung for means of escape!
I think the bottom cill has to be at least 800mm from floor level as well. If the loft area is split into more than 1 room it has to be of a min size for fire escape or something along those lines.herbialfa said:
Depending on your needs for the window, i.e. if its for a new bedroom etc make sure the cill height is no greater than 1100mm from floor level and its top hung for means of escape!
I think the bottom cill has to be at least 800mm from floor level as well. If the loft area is split into more than 1 room it has to be of a min size for fire escape or something along those lines.Fitted 2 Velux windows in my kids bedrooms. (Sloping ceilings). Definitely recomend the Velux brand. They are quite easy to fit from within, just take care when removing the tiles. Major sourcing issues with high street outlets I found was getting a matching window with corresponding flashing kit. Make sure you get the flashing kit that matches your tile profile, (Slate, concrete, pantile etc.)
http://www.selcobw.com/ This place was great but might be trade only IIRC. Either that or try buying through the Velux website http://www.velux.co.uk/
Hope this helps, good luck.
http://www.selcobw.com/ This place was great but might be trade only IIRC. Either that or try buying through the Velux website http://www.velux.co.uk/
Hope this helps, good luck.
Edited by Pixel Pusher on Tuesday 1st March 22:11
Edited by Pixel Pusher on Tuesday 1st March 22:12
Veluxs' are designed to be fitted from inside the roof space.
As has been mentioned, there are a range of flashings for various roof coverings, and also these may change dependant on the roof pitch.
Incidentally, they have just released a solar powered version that can be controlled by a remote handpad.
If you are fitting in the rear of the roof, you should have no problems with planning, but ask if you're thinking of putting on on the front, some councils will make you remove it!
We sell hundreds of them a year, the biggest problem we have is people "losing" some of the bits, then saying they weren't in the box. The windows and flashings are packed on a long belt, and are weighed after every stage. There is no way they can leave each station without all the bits in the box. Generally what happens is people, in their rush to have a look at the window, dump all the packaging, without realising there are screws etc stashed in the cardboard.
Before you buy your window, measure the space between the rafters, (this will tell you if you're going to need to fit cross-bracing for the rafters), check the roof pitch, identify the roof covering (just saying concrete interlocking tiles isn't enough) and decide which type of window you want.
HTH
As has been mentioned, there are a range of flashings for various roof coverings, and also these may change dependant on the roof pitch.
Incidentally, they have just released a solar powered version that can be controlled by a remote handpad.
If you are fitting in the rear of the roof, you should have no problems with planning, but ask if you're thinking of putting on on the front, some councils will make you remove it!
We sell hundreds of them a year, the biggest problem we have is people "losing" some of the bits, then saying they weren't in the box. The windows and flashings are packed on a long belt, and are weighed after every stage. There is no way they can leave each station without all the bits in the box. Generally what happens is people, in their rush to have a look at the window, dump all the packaging, without realising there are screws etc stashed in the cardboard.
Before you buy your window, measure the space between the rafters, (this will tell you if you're going to need to fit cross-bracing for the rafters), check the roof pitch, identify the roof covering (just saying concrete interlocking tiles isn't enough) and decide which type of window you want.
HTH
Si 330 said:
herbialfa said:
Depending on your needs for the window, i.e. if its for a new bedroom etc make sure the cill height is no greater than 1100mm from floor level and its top hung for means of escape!
I think the bottom cill has to be at least 800mm from floor level as well. If the loft area is split into more than 1 room it has to be of a min size for fire escape or something along those lines.Different of course if it is to a first floor loft , ie to a bungalow.
mrmaggit said:
Veluxs' are designed to be fitted from inside the roof space.
As has been mentioned, there are a range of flashings for various roof coverings, and also these may change dependant on the roof pitch.
Incidentally, they have just released a solar powered version that can be controlled by a remote handpad.
If you are fitting in the rear of the roof, you should have no problems with planning, but ask if you're thinking of putting on on the front, some councils will make you remove it!
We sell hundreds of them a year, the biggest problem we have is people "losing" some of the bits, then saying they weren't in the box. The windows and flashings are packed on a long belt, and are weighed after every stage. There is no way they can leave each station without all the bits in the box. Generally what happens is people, in their rush to have a look at the window, dump all the packaging, without realising there are screws etc stashed in the cardboard.
Before you buy your window, measure the space between the rafters, (this will tell you if you're going to need to fit cross-bracing for the rafters), check the roof pitch, identify the roof covering (just saying concrete interlocking tiles isn't enough) and decide which type of window you want.
HTH
Any chance of a special "PH price" on one of those fancy motorised, solar powered black out blinds? I'm in the market for one.As has been mentioned, there are a range of flashings for various roof coverings, and also these may change dependant on the roof pitch.
Incidentally, they have just released a solar powered version that can be controlled by a remote handpad.
If you are fitting in the rear of the roof, you should have no problems with planning, but ask if you're thinking of putting on on the front, some councils will make you remove it!
We sell hundreds of them a year, the biggest problem we have is people "losing" some of the bits, then saying they weren't in the box. The windows and flashings are packed on a long belt, and are weighed after every stage. There is no way they can leave each station without all the bits in the box. Generally what happens is people, in their rush to have a look at the window, dump all the packaging, without realising there are screws etc stashed in the cardboard.
Before you buy your window, measure the space between the rafters, (this will tell you if you're going to need to fit cross-bracing for the rafters), check the roof pitch, identify the roof covering (just saying concrete interlocking tiles isn't enough) and decide which type of window you want.
HTH
DJFish said:
We have a Velux window but its quite old and manky.
Does anyone know how easy it is to replace the glazing in one and how much it would cost?
The glass is replaceable, open the window and look at the top edge of the opening part. There is a grey aluminium plate that has all the details required. make a note of these numbers and letters, ring Velux or contact your local stockist for a price. The glazing has been uprated recently, so if your window is very old, it may be better to just replace the whole thing and get a completely brand new window, then you can uprate the glazing at the same time, if you wish. The new one will fit the hole left by the old one.Does anyone know how easy it is to replace the glazing in one and how much it would cost?
dave_s13 said:
mrmaggit said:
Veluxs' are designed to be fitted from inside the roof space.
As has been mentioned, there are a range of flashings for various roof coverings, and also these may change dependant on the roof pitch.
Incidentally, they have just released a solar powered version that can be controlled by a remote handpad.
If you are fitting in the rear of the roof, you should have no problems with planning, but ask if you're thinking of putting on on the front, some councils will make you remove it!
We sell hundreds of them a year, the biggest problem we have is people "losing" some of the bits, then saying they weren't in the box. The windows and flashings are packed on a long belt, and are weighed after every stage. There is no way they can leave each station without all the bits in the box. Generally what happens is people, in their rush to have a look at the window, dump all the packaging, without realising there are screws etc stashed in the cardboard.
Before you buy your window, measure the space between the rafters, (this will tell you if you're going to need to fit cross-bracing for the rafters), check the roof pitch, identify the roof covering (just saying concrete interlocking tiles isn't enough) and decide which type of window you want.
HTH
Any chance of a special "PH price" on one of those fancy motorised, solar powered black out blinds? I'm in the market for one.As has been mentioned, there are a range of flashings for various roof coverings, and also these may change dependant on the roof pitch.
Incidentally, they have just released a solar powered version that can be controlled by a remote handpad.
If you are fitting in the rear of the roof, you should have no problems with planning, but ask if you're thinking of putting on on the front, some councils will make you remove it!
We sell hundreds of them a year, the biggest problem we have is people "losing" some of the bits, then saying they weren't in the box. The windows and flashings are packed on a long belt, and are weighed after every stage. There is no way they can leave each station without all the bits in the box. Generally what happens is people, in their rush to have a look at the window, dump all the packaging, without realising there are screws etc stashed in the cardboard.
Before you buy your window, measure the space between the rafters, (this will tell you if you're going to need to fit cross-bracing for the rafters), check the roof pitch, identify the roof covering (just saying concrete interlocking tiles isn't enough) and decide which type of window you want.
HTH
mrmaggit said:
The glass is replaceable, open the window and look at the top edge of the opening part. There is a grey aluminium plate that has all the details required. make a note of these numbers and letters, ring Velux or contact your local stockist for a price. The glazing has been uprated recently, so if your window is very old, it may be better to just replace the whole thing and get a completely brand new window, then you can uprate the glazing at the same time, if you wish. The new one will fit the hole left by the old one.
Smashing, thanks!Busamav said:
Si 330 said:
herbialfa said:
Depending on your needs for the window, i.e. if its for a new bedroom etc make sure the cill height is no greater than 1100mm from floor level and its top hung for means of escape!
I think the bottom cill has to be at least 800mm from floor level as well. If the loft area is split into more than 1 room it has to be of a min size for fire escape or something along those lines.Different of course if it is to a first floor loft , ie to a bungalow.
Busamav said:
Si 330 said:
herbialfa said:
Depending on your needs for the window, i.e. if its for a new bedroom etc make sure the cill height is no greater than 1100mm from floor level and its top hung for means of escape!
I think the bottom cill has to be at least 800mm from floor level as well. If the loft area is split into more than 1 room it has to be of a min size for fire escape or something along those lines.Different of course if it is to a first floor loft , ie to a bungalow.
The heights are set to stop you falling out (minimum height) and low enough to be a fire escape (maximum height).
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