Refitting a valve/tap head
Discussion
Hoping that someone might be able to help with what is probably a really simple one...
During a bathroom refit, we had valves (for an overflow bath filler) placed in the wall. These have been tiled over, with the body of the valve "B" (and obviously the tap head) protruding from the wall and a trim piece "A".
Tap head seemed a little loose for a couple of weeks but the damned thing came off yesterday. Looking at the various parts it looks like the head activates/deactivates the valve via a splined shaft on part "C" but is held on in some way by a captive threaded bolt "D" (which I guess tightens from the other side of plate "C").
Pics:
Given the way the whole thing is installed I'm guessing that the tap head must have been fitted after tiling. Just trying to work out how to refit it without accidentally flooding the bathroom and hoping one of you might be able to advise.
Suspect it'll be something as simple as pulling the part "C" off the body of the valve, screwing the head back on, and pushing all back into place?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
During a bathroom refit, we had valves (for an overflow bath filler) placed in the wall. These have been tiled over, with the body of the valve "B" (and obviously the tap head) protruding from the wall and a trim piece "A".
Tap head seemed a little loose for a couple of weeks but the damned thing came off yesterday. Looking at the various parts it looks like the head activates/deactivates the valve via a splined shaft on part "C" but is held on in some way by a captive threaded bolt "D" (which I guess tightens from the other side of plate "C").
Pics:
Given the way the whole thing is installed I'm guessing that the tap head must have been fitted after tiling. Just trying to work out how to refit it without accidentally flooding the bathroom and hoping one of you might be able to advise.
Suspect it'll be something as simple as pulling the part "C" off the body of the valve, screwing the head back on, and pushing all back into place?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Gingerbread Man said:
Is the internal diameter of A smaller than the external diameter of C?
It is...Gingerbread Man said:
Pull A off the wall. Might be siliconed on to allow for watertightness. See what you see.
Unfortunately all there seems to be there is a lot of silicone sealant in the cavity...Gingerbread Man said:
Due to having no screws on show (no grub screws?), A should come off and I'd be tempted to see if B wiggled free too.
Sadly it won't... the internal diameter of B is smaller than the external diameter of C, so even if it did, we'd still hit a problem with C.And you're right, no grub screws anywhere to be seen.
My current thinking is that there must be a way to get the tap heads on/off with the body of the unit still in situ - after all, you'd not be able to get the trim piece into place with the tap head already on.
Simpo Two said:
Gingerbread Man said:
Got fed up and left Pistonheads.
If you give advice you have to be prepared for people to ignore it, even if you know you're right and they're wrong. It's only the internet after all.Too many broken boiler threads I expect.
Frustrating if you're trying to help.
Thanks for all of the interest in this one - most appreciated.
In case it helps visualise things, here are a couple more shots...
1) Top view
2) Top view of the unbroken one
The fact that the tap head is bigger than the trim piece suggests to me that it almost certainly went on afterwards.
(BTW, "D" slides in/out between two limits)
In case it helps visualise things, here are a couple more shots...
1) Top view
2) Top view of the unbroken one
The fact that the tap head is bigger than the trim piece suggests to me that it almost certainly went on afterwards.
(BTW, "D" slides in/out between two limits)
Could it be that item D is in fact a screw or bolt thats missing its top? Not seeing the top of the handle not sure if its solid or not.
Try removing it, and replacing it with a screw type bolt, the head of which will secure the handle in place ?
only other thing I can think of, does one of the 3 handle spokes unscrew? if it does there maybe an allen key bolt underneath that needs tightening against item D
Try removing it, and replacing it with a screw type bolt, the head of which will secure the handle in place ?
only other thing I can think of, does one of the 3 handle spokes unscrew? if it does there maybe an allen key bolt underneath that needs tightening against item D
Who manufactures it?
Normally the valve is placed in the wall with the spindle sticking out. So on this one, I'd expect the splines and the threaded studding to be fixed to the valve in the wall.
After tiling, you then build the valve up and put the head on it. So Id say that 'A' will come off, and the head would come off.
I'd attempt to get 'A' off. It may seem like there is just a lot of silicone, but there will have to be silicone between this and the wall to stop water getting behind the tiles. I'd take this as my first step.
Either use a Stanley blade, or a senior hacksaw blade flat against the tiles and slice through the silicone.
Good luck, post back once done.
Normally the valve is placed in the wall with the spindle sticking out. So on this one, I'd expect the splines and the threaded studding to be fixed to the valve in the wall.
After tiling, you then build the valve up and put the head on it. So Id say that 'A' will come off, and the head would come off.
I'd attempt to get 'A' off. It may seem like there is just a lot of silicone, but there will have to be silicone between this and the wall to stop water getting behind the tiles. I'd take this as my first step.
Either use a Stanley blade, or a senior hacksaw blade flat against the tiles and slice through the silicone.
Good luck, post back once done.
manty said:
Could it be that item D is in fact a screw or bolt thats missing its top? Not seeing the top of the handle not sure if its solid or not.
Sadly the top is solid metal...manty said:
only other thing I can think of, does one of the 3 handle spokes unscrew? if it does there maybe an allen key bolt underneath that needs tightening against item D
Not something I'd thought of, but doesn't seem to be the case.Gingerbread Man said:
Who manufactures it?
Not a scooby unfortunately - otherwise my next port of call would be ordering another set just to get my hands on the instructions! 
Gingerbread Man said:
Normally the valve is placed in the wall with the spindle sticking out. So on this one, I'd expect the splines and the threaded studding to be fixed to the valve in the wall.
After tiling, you then build the valve up and put the head on it. So Id say that 'A' will come off, and the head would come off.
That was my expectation too - would seem crazy to do it any other way.After tiling, you then build the valve up and put the head on it. So Id say that 'A' will come off, and the head would come off.
Gingerbread Man said:
I'd attempt to get 'A' off. It may seem like there is just a lot of silicone, but there will have to be silicone between this and the wall to stop water getting behind the tiles. I'd take this as my first step.
Either use a Stanley blade, or a senior hacksaw blade flat against the tiles and slice through the silicone.
Good luck, post back once done.
"A" comes off really easily - didn't reveal anything but seems like rather than silicone this to the wall, the fitter basically filled the hole behind it with silicone. Just debating whether to dig all of this out tonight or spend a bit of time trying to track down some similar items online.Either use a Stanley blade, or a senior hacksaw blade flat against the tiles and slice through the silicone.
Good luck, post back once done.
Busamav said:
are you sure D isn't a stud that has come loose
and there is a small nut to go on after the tap head ?
Positive - the tap head is one solid lump of metal. and there is a small nut to go on after the tap head ?
Photo isn't the best but if you look closely at the picture of the head you might just be able to make out the threading inside it (at its narrowest point, after it narrows down beyond the splines).
Gingerbread Man said:
I think you mentioned that the studding slides back and forth. Can you thread the handle onto the studding a little with the studding pulled out to its furthest, then alinge the splines and slide them together.
Perhaps, but the splines aren't engineered enough to hold the whole thing together so the head would still flop about...manty said:
You, Sir, are a gentleman! They are indeed the ones we have - will give them a buzz tomorrow.
Many thanks indeed.
ETA: Found out how they go together now link - easy when you know what you're looking for! Do have some concerns about the clip though, so will still be speaking to them before moving forward.
Edited by LooneyTunes on Sunday 20th March 21:20
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