Laying block paving
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Discussion

Jonboy_t

Original Poster:

5,038 posts

207 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
I'm digging out trees/bushes etc in the front garden at the moment to block pave the half of it that isn't block paved already and have been thinking about how to 'sink proof' the paving, i.e. how to stop the hard work turning into a series of 3 foot deep puddles at the first sign of a pour down.

I've never done my own block paving before, done a few bits with other people, but never on my own and in the past, the ground work has already been done and I've been the muscle fetching and carying etc.

To lay a decent base (and please excuse if this is obvious/stupid), I was thinking of doing a few inches of dry sand/cement mix, whacker plate it down, watering it down a little, another couple of inches of sand on top once that's dry, whacker plate again and then pave it.

Does that sounds like a stupid idea or is this actually how it should be done?!!!!

B17NNS

18,506 posts

271 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Personally I'd dig down and lay some Type 1 MOT limestone and compact that.

Then lay the blocks on limestone dust.

doug1e1972

87 posts

187 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
use gravel dust instead of the dry sand/cement base. lay as thin a layer of sand as you can on top.
most important is to have it so the water will run away from the house,so a very very slight angle running down towards were you wish the water to run to.

zollburgers

1,284 posts

207 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
This site is the best for block paving advice etc:

http://www.pavingexpert.com/

They have a forum too:
http://www.pavingexpert.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard....

Jonboy_t

Original Poster:

5,038 posts

207 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
I'm quite lucky as the existing drive and the grass/bushes/tree's as they are now all slope gently towards a drain so I'm just going to be putting some stakes in and work with them to make sure that the slope remains there.

Limestone and compacted gravel do sound like a decent base, but the reason I was considering the concrete/dry mix was that I've had to pull out a pretty sizeable tree (at least 35 feet wide. well, it felt like it!) and the roots that I haven't been able to get will eventually decompose and the dirt below the base will/could collapse.

Chrisgr31

14,225 posts

279 months

Monday 28th March 2011
quotequote all
I think you will find a dry mix will just crack if the ground underneath it sinks, and then your drive will sink too.

I would dig out the area where the tree was, and fill the resultant hole with MOT, making sure you compact it regularly.

Gingerbread Man

9,173 posts

237 months

Monday 28th March 2011
quotequote all
Dig out.
Compact.
Lay scalpings to levels.
Compact.
With levels marked out, lay edging brick on mortor base.
In fill with grit/ sharp sand.
Compact to rough level.
Level a section to bottom edge of border bricks to achieve your accurate level. A trowel is useful for levelling into tight spaces and a long straight edge for the open spaces.

Start laying bricks. Do this in lines so you can see if they start running out.

Also keep an eye out for humps and hollows/ crap on the grit that'll need sorting.

m3jappa

6,889 posts

242 months

Monday 28th March 2011
quotequote all
The problem with lean mix bases is that when (not so much if) the ground moves, they crack, once they crack your in trouble.

The only way to do a proper concrete base of any form is to have a couple of inches of type one or even crushed, well compacted then put a min of 150mm decent concrete down with some re mesh in it. That will never move!

Realistically if i were you i would if worried dig out a couple of inches more than the norm so go to 12/13" , put down 3/4" of crushed concrete down and compact well, (spray water on the base with a hose will help to bind the stone).
Then put 4/5" proper m.o.t type one, not the crushed crap above which is excellent for oversites but crap as a proper base.

Compact that in 2 layers.

Each time you compact spray some water with the hose to help bind. Pass at least 6 or 7 times with the sort of wacker you will be getting (assuming hire) for each layer.

Trust me that will be fine.

When you compact pass it in different directions too, which helps to interlock the stone.

Jonboy_t

Original Poster:

5,038 posts

207 months

Tuesday 29th March 2011
quotequote all
I've nearly finished digging the soil/gravel/lumps of cement/clay out (2 fekkin days so far - it's only 20 sq meters!) and am about 3/4's of a foot down which I think will be enough given what it's going to be used for (it will only ever be a small car - at least when I'm using it anyway).

The dry mix idea was just that, an idea. Mine tend to be pretty random at the best of times but thought it would be worth putting it to the wisest people in internetdom and, as always, you haven't failed to get me out of a sticky spot!

Thanks all!