PVC fasias/soffets
Discussion
To meet building regs you need the equiv. of a 10mm ventilation gap all the way round the roof line. Normally this is done by using a ventialted soffit - lots on little holes in the horizontal part, giving sufficient ventilation. I personally think this is a bit nasty, the holes get dirty and full of cobswebs etc. If possible get them to fit a ventilation strip on top of the fasica - this way the vent is hidden behind the gutter under the tiles. Much neater 
)
Did my own, plastics for a 3 bed semi were about £400 all in. Bit of a nightmare though, need to be brave ripping the bottom row of tiles off etc to get access. Think I'd pay someone again!
)Did my own, plastics for a 3 bed semi were about £400 all in. Bit of a nightmare though, need to be brave ripping the bottom row of tiles off etc to get access. Think I'd pay someone again!
There are a couple of options available to you.......
Capping over the timber, or replacing completely.
If your existing timber fascia is in good order, you can cap over it, using a 9mm thick cappit board. It saves a lot of work!!
If your existing fascia is rotten, you will have to take it all down, which is quite a lot of work, and will require scaffolding. You will then need to replace with 18mm fascia board.
Capping over the timber, or replacing completely.
If your existing timber fascia is in good order, you can cap over it, using a 9mm thick cappit board. It saves a lot of work!!
If your existing fascia is rotten, you will have to take it all down, which is quite a lot of work, and will require scaffolding. You will then need to replace with 18mm fascia board.
VxDuncan said:
To meet building regs you need the equiv. of a 10mm ventilation gap all the way round the roof line. Normally this is done by using a ventialted soffit - lots on little holes in the horizontal part, giving sufficient ventilation. I personally think this is a bit nasty, the holes get dirty and full of cobswebs etc. If possible get them to fit a ventilation strip on top of the fasica - this way the vent is hidden behind the gutter under the tiles. Much neater )
We were told (10+yrs ago, so maybe things have changed) that if it wasn't ventilated orginally then it didn't need to be vented when refitted. However we did go for the round vents in the soffit and, yes, they do get dirty!)You'd be better off going for woodgrain as it keeps its colour better than white, which looks s
te after a while. Or if not, then get white fascia and black guttering. It's not difficult to replace what you have yourself, but if you want it to look neat and haven't done it before its worth taking your time. If replacing then you'll have to take off the bottom course of tiles and if you're doing that you might as well put up eaves tray and comb fillers on as well as fascia. Tower scaffolding is cheap to hire if you need it and certainly nicer to use than doing it all off ladders. Make sure you measure all the pins for the fascia and space the gutter brackets evenly, rather than doing it the gyppo way and just banging them on anywhere as that makes a big difference to how neat the job looks. Gutter brackets are fine at a metre apart. Put on the joint strips and corners with superglue and superglue activator, which makes it go off much faster. Make sure you don't get any superglue on your fingers and then touch anything as it leaves fingerprints that you can't remove on the plastic. Stringline the gutter brackets with a tight line to ensure that your gutter will flow correctly. Make sure before you cut anything that you've measured it correctly, then measure it again just to make sure...
Remember that the price for a man that walks in off the street for fascia is far more than what their regular customers who are builders/fascia fitters will get it for so don't be afraid to ask for a discount. Just asking for a discount in a merchant is often enough to get a large amount knocked off. You can potentially save a lot of money if you do it yourself and it really isn't difficult. Or just pay someone to do it if you can't face the hassle.
te after a while. Or if not, then get white fascia and black guttering. It's not difficult to replace what you have yourself, but if you want it to look neat and haven't done it before its worth taking your time. If replacing then you'll have to take off the bottom course of tiles and if you're doing that you might as well put up eaves tray and comb fillers on as well as fascia. Tower scaffolding is cheap to hire if you need it and certainly nicer to use than doing it all off ladders. Make sure you measure all the pins for the fascia and space the gutter brackets evenly, rather than doing it the gyppo way and just banging them on anywhere as that makes a big difference to how neat the job looks. Gutter brackets are fine at a metre apart. Put on the joint strips and corners with superglue and superglue activator, which makes it go off much faster. Make sure you don't get any superglue on your fingers and then touch anything as it leaves fingerprints that you can't remove on the plastic. Stringline the gutter brackets with a tight line to ensure that your gutter will flow correctly. Make sure before you cut anything that you've measured it correctly, then measure it again just to make sure...Remember that the price for a man that walks in off the street for fascia is far more than what their regular customers who are builders/fascia fitters will get it for so don't be afraid to ask for a discount. Just asking for a discount in a merchant is often enough to get a large amount knocked off. You can potentially save a lot of money if you do it yourself and it really isn't difficult. Or just pay someone to do it if you can't face the hassle.
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff