Building a shed
Discussion
Afternoon Chums
I`m in the process of a designing a shed for the other half.
It`s going to be a cross between a potting shed, and a storage shed, with the looks of a summer house!!
It`ll be 8` x 6` with a transverse apex roof and a 1` overhang
I`ve designed it on autocad and am getting down to a cutting list, which is where I`ve got myself confused
I`m looking to make it as robust as possible and figured on using 22/150 toungue and groove as the cladding, however every wood yard I`ve rung has said "nah mate, you want 19/125 TGV".
Now what`s the difference between tongue and groove and TGV? and which should I be using?
Many thanks in advance
Dave
I`m in the process of a designing a shed for the other half.
It`s going to be a cross between a potting shed, and a storage shed, with the looks of a summer house!!
It`ll be 8` x 6` with a transverse apex roof and a 1` overhang
I`ve designed it on autocad and am getting down to a cutting list, which is where I`ve got myself confused
I`m looking to make it as robust as possible and figured on using 22/150 toungue and groove as the cladding, however every wood yard I`ve rung has said "nah mate, you want 19/125 TGV".Now what`s the difference between tongue and groove and TGV? and which should I be using?
Many thanks in advance
Dave
cirks said:
Can't help you with your question but if you've come up with a great design, I'd like to see it as I want to do something similar (although it would be bigger than 8x6 - which sounds a bit tight to do all three jobs you list!)
Oh it`s the best design ever chum 
Not sure how to post a drawing to here, but will give it go tomorrow. If it`s any good for you and you want the plans done to different dimensions, I`m happy to modify them for you. I`ve designed it on Autocad, so it`s pretty easy to chop and change.
B160 AVE said:
Oh it`s the best design ever chum 
I bet it is 

B160 AVE said:
Not sure how to post a drawing to here, but will give it go tomorrow. If it`s any good for you and you want the plans done to different dimensions, I`m happy to modify them for you. I`ve designed it on Autocad, so it`s pretty easy to chop and change.
Thanks - look forward to seeing it.mattdaniels said:
You want shiplap for the exterior cladding not tongue and groove.
Out of interest Matt, why do you say that? I`ve been looking at every manufacturer for the last couple of months, and they all sell shiplap as the cheap alternative, and tongue and groove as the sturdier heavy duty option.Not saying your wrong, just genuinely interested and want to make sure I get it right.
General opinion seems to be that the shiplap can warp over time, allowing gaps to appear, whereas tongue and groove seems to be a much more solid, locked together solution!
B160 AVE said:
mattdaniels said:
You want shiplap for the exterior cladding not tongue and groove.
Out of interest Matt, why do you say that? I`ve been looking at every manufacturer for the last couple of months, and they all sell shiplap as the cheap alternative, and tongue and groove as the sturdier heavy duty option.Not saying your wrong, just genuinely interested and want to make sure I get it right.
General opinion seems to be that the shiplap can warp over time, allowing gaps to appear, whereas tongue and groove seems to be a much more solid, locked together solution!
http://www.orlestoneoak.co.uk/timber/weatherboard_...
Shiplap is used for exterior cladding as its design allows rain to run off down the boards whereas t&g, even V-grooved will allow water to enter and sit in the groove as far as the tongue. This will cause the timber to rot over time.
You could use OSB board then batten and clad if you want to make the whole thing more rigid.
mgtony said:
Take a look at the different cladding profiles on this webpage:
http://www.orlestoneoak.co.uk/timber/weatherboard_...
Shiplap is used for exterior cladding as its design allows rain to run off down the boards whereas t&g, even V-grooved will allow water to enter and sit in the groove as far as the tongue. This will cause the timber to rot over time.
You could use OSB board then batten and clad if you want to make the whole thing more rigid.
Excellent link, cheers chum http://www.orlestoneoak.co.uk/timber/weatherboard_...
Shiplap is used for exterior cladding as its design allows rain to run off down the boards whereas t&g, even V-grooved will allow water to enter and sit in the groove as far as the tongue. This will cause the timber to rot over time.
You could use OSB board then batten and clad if you want to make the whole thing more rigid.
Looks good, one thing I'd change is to have a larger area between the door and windows, and from the windows to the end of the shed. In other words you'd have an upright next to the door and another next to the window with a reasonable size piece of cladding btween them.
A few noggins between all the uprights all round will stiffen the framework up and keep it square whilst your assembling it.

A few noggins between all the uprights all round will stiffen the framework up and keep it square whilst your assembling it.

mgtony said:
Looks good, one thing I'd change is to have a larger area between the door and windows, and from the windows to the end of the shed. In other words you'd have an upright next to the door and another next to the window with a reasonable size piece of cladding btween them.
A few noggins between all the uprights all round will stiffen the framework up and keep it square whilst your assembling it.

Cheers Tony A few noggins between all the uprights all round will stiffen the framework up and keep it square whilst your assembling it.

I must admit, looking at it now, I completely agree with you. I was going to use captive hinges and wanted to maximise the light let in, but Stroppy has decreed that she wants big antique looking hinges, so will adjust to suit. Will also add noggins, but haven`t designed them in as will have loads of off cuts to piece in as I go along.
Are you planning to clad all the panels before assembly? Do you know where I'm going with this?
(The cladding wont meet up at the corners because of the framework) You can preclad either the front and back or the two sides first then the rest when assembled.
You probably new this , but I'd thought it worth a mention!
(The cladding wont meet up at the corners because of the framework) You can preclad either the front and back or the two sides first then the rest when assembled.
You probably new this , but I'd thought it worth a mention!

B160 AVE said:
Out of interest Matt, why do you say that? I`ve been looking at every manufacturer for the last couple of months, and they all sell shiplap as the cheap alternative, and tongue and groove as the sturdier heavy duty option.
Not saying your wrong, just genuinely interested and want to make sure I get it right.
General opinion seems to be that the shiplap can warp over time, allowing gaps to appear, whereas tongue and groove seems to be a much more solid, locked together solution!
When I researched my shed build I came to the conclusion that T+G would hold water and shiplap allows it to drain off. Feather-edge and all that paper thin nonsense seems to have the most trouble with warping. Decent pressure treated wood for outdoors should have less potential to warp. You're still dealing with a natural product, mind. So it is going to have potential to move whatever you choose.Not saying your wrong, just genuinely interested and want to make sure I get it right.
General opinion seems to be that the shiplap can warp over time, allowing gaps to appear, whereas tongue and groove seems to be a much more solid, locked together solution!
mgtony said:
Are you planning to clad all the panels before assembly? Do you know where I'm going with this?
(The cladding wont meet up at the corners because of the framework) You can preclad either the front and back or the two sides first then the rest when assembled.
You probably new this , but I'd thought it worth a mention!
I`m going to clad the back panel and right hand panel first as it`s going tight into that corner with a 6" brick wall on thise 2 sides. I`ll then clad the left hand side and front once the framework is up. Although I plan to pre-mark the cladding points so I can get it to match up (The cladding wont meet up at the corners because of the framework) You can preclad either the front and back or the two sides first then the rest when assembled.
You probably new this , but I'd thought it worth a mention!

You won't actually see the return edge, as the side will over lap the front (front panel 2400mm wide, total shed width 2500mm) with a cover strip covering the edges of the TGV.
That`s the plan anyway, we`ll have to see how it plans out in practice

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