Loire Valley
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hoyin

Original Poster:

1,233 posts

267 months

Monday 16th May 2011
quotequote all
Organising a road trip with me and missus to the Loire Valley this summer.

Probably going to leave Friday morning return on a Monday night.

Got some questions:

1. What would be the best way of getting across the Channel? Portsmouth to St. Malo seems to be the preferred route as you are the closest, but the trip is not cheap as the journey is long. Any other alternatives? Calais on google maps appears to be about the same driving distance to the start of the Loire Valley, but I would guess in real life with traffic etc it would not be.

2. Any recommendations on what to see, where to stay and where to eat and drink?

Hopefully the French will enjoy seeing a British car gracing its roads.

Happy to collate all the info, do a write up so others can use this as a helpful resource when planning their own similar trip in the future.

Thanks

Stephanie Plum

2,797 posts

241 months

Monday 16th May 2011
quotequote all
LD Lines Portsmouth to Le Havre is our preferred route when heading to Le Mans for track days. Fast cat gets in 12.30 ish iirc and then it's 2.5/3hr run down to the area.

Puggit

49,821 posts

278 months

Monday 16th May 2011
quotequote all
Caen is probably the closest crossing, they have now finished the A88 down to Sees (and so connecting to the A26 and direct to Le Mans/Tours). Caen to Tours is around 3 hours without stoppin. I would recommend overnight crossings on this route - expensive, but it doesn't waste time!! LD Lines to Le Havre or Dieppe is probably cheaper than Brittany Ferries, but you get what you pay for!

The French police will certainly be happy to see British cars speeding...

The Loire Valley is very long! I would choose to make base either just East of Tours and see Amboise, Chenonceaux, Vourvay, Blois...

Or just West and see Aizay-le-Rideau, Chinon, Bauge, Samaur.

Tours' medieval centre is great too.

If you're feeling really brave, try eating here: http://www.gralon.net/restaurants-france/indre-et-... . €11, 3 course all you can eat buffet including half a carafe of wine.

Edited by Puggit on Monday 16th May 17:26

hoyin

Original Poster:

1,233 posts

267 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
quotequote all
Thanks!

Most helpful information.

I will take the ferry overnight to Le Harve and the Cat back.

I assume on the way back as it is a 3.5hr journey I don't need to book seats? I am assuming you still get seats?

Do they have problems with very low cars? Or is it like the normal ferry where I can inform them and they will put me on the flat deck with the lorries?

Looks like I will make a base near Tours as recommended. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Stephanie Plum

2,797 posts

241 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
quotequote all
At Portsmouth with both Brittany Ferries and LD Lines I have taken my 211 on and off numerous times with no issues. They are very careful and helpful ime.

You get a seat allocation with a standard ticket.

Huntsman

9,407 posts

280 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
quotequote all
Try the Auberge De Centre in Chitenay for a hotel, its lovely and very French, local Chevernay wine is very nice, close to Chambord and the amazing double helix staircase.

Edited by Huntsman on Tuesday 17th May 11:11

Puggit

49,821 posts

278 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
quotequote all
One warning about the Cat - if the sea isn't a millpond you're going to suffer hurl

alfa pint

3,856 posts

241 months

Wednesday 18th May 2011
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I took the MG over a few years ago - Chunnel - Paris (outskirts!) - Sancerre. Chunnel wasn't expensive booked far enough in advance (£100? iirc). The D roads were just lovely and very quiet. Car attracted a lot of attention when stopped, and lots of headturning driving through the various villages.

john2443

6,549 posts

241 months

Wednesday 18th May 2011
quotequote all
Although Sancerre is Loire valley and that area is very nice, and pretty quiet, not much in the way of tourism, the bit with all the chateaux is the part closer to the Atlantic.

Newhaven Dieppe is another option for ferry, generally cheaper than the Portsmouth options and Dieppe's a nice town to spend a bit of time in once you land.

If you're heading for Tours, Dieppe and Cherbourg are about the same distance.

G350

382 posts

193 months

Wednesday 18th May 2011
quotequote all
hoyin said:
Organising a road trip with me and missus to the Loire Valley this summer.

2. Any recommendations on what to see, where to stay and where to eat and drink?
I always recommend using viamichelin.com when planning road trips, especially France.

It has all the scenic roads, hotels and restaurants from the Red Guide and all the tourist points of interest (star rated so you can select just the highlights) from the Green Guide built into the map.

Never let me down.

Are you taking the Noble?

hoyin

Original Poster:

1,233 posts

267 months

Thursday 19th May 2011
quotequote all
john2443 said:
Although Sancerre is Loire valley and that area is very nice, and pretty quiet, not much in the way of tourism, the bit with all the chateaux is the part closer to the Atlantic.

Newhaven Dieppe is another option for ferry, generally cheaper than the Portsmouth options and Dieppe's a nice town to spend a bit of time in once you land.

If you're heading for Tours, Dieppe and Cherbourg are about the same distance.
Bugger ... yes going to Dieppe is cheaper and quicker! works out to be £132, vs my £196 from Portsmouth to Le Havre.

Oh well too late - will note it for next time though.

hoyin

Original Poster:

1,233 posts

267 months

Thursday 19th May 2011
quotequote all
Huntsman said:
Try the Auberge De Centre in Chitenay for a hotel, its lovely and very French, local Chevernay wine is very nice, close to Chambord and the amazing double helix staircase.

Edited by Huntsman on Tuesday 17th May 11:11
Fully booked for the August Bank holiday.

Looked really nice as well. Anyone else got any recommendations?

Huntsman

9,407 posts

280 months

Thursday 19th May 2011
quotequote all
hoyin said:
Huntsman said:
Try the Auberge De Centre in Chitenay for a hotel, its lovely and very French, local Chevernay wine is very nice, close to Chambord and the amazing double helix staircase.

Edited by Huntsman on Tuesday 17th May 11:11
Fully booked for the August Bank holiday.

Looked really nice as well. Anyone else got any recommendations?
Bummer, you'd have loved that hotel, live jazz quietly playing in the background as you dine in the garden...

For hotels in France I always peruse the Logis de France website. http://www.logishotels.com/en.html

They are all smallish family run hotels, good value, friendly service and typically French.


Dr Imran T

2,301 posts

229 months

Thursday 19th May 2011
quotequote all
OP - have a look at this thread:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

I asked the same question a while back.


Puggit

49,821 posts

278 months

Thursday 19th May 2011
quotequote all
And of course, anyone considering a longer stay in the Loire should consider looking at my profile. We have PHer reviews available wink

hoyin

Original Poster:

1,233 posts

267 months

Thursday 19th May 2011
quotequote all
Dr Imran T said:
OP - have a look at this thread:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

I asked the same question a while back.
It was actually your thread that I read when it first started that got me interested in this trip! But I couldn't find it in the search again. Probably because I added the word valley and it didn't find it!

Thanks!

Dr Imran T

2,301 posts

229 months

Friday 20th May 2011
quotequote all
hoyin said:
It was actually your thread that I read when it first started that got me interested in this trip! But I couldn't find it in the search again. Probably because I added the word valley and it didn't find it!

Thanks!
No problem, if you find any other hidden gems then add it to the thread. It would be a useful resource for anyone looking to head over to that region.

Wadeski

9,046 posts

243 months

Friday 20th May 2011
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Le Bon Laboreur restaurant in Chenonceaux cloud9

the Loire Valley is a gem.

hoyin

Original Poster:

1,233 posts

267 months

Sunday 4th September 2011
quotequote all
Thought I would give you all an update and perhaps something for future visitors.

Firstly thanks for all the advice PH is such a wonderful resource. Every time we went somewhere my wife would always say - how did you know about this place. My reply is always PH. So now she has less of a problem with PH and the forum!

Anyway - trip was fantastic the Noble performed flawlessly. The French were stopping me continuously asking what car it was and everyone was so nice. Food was fantastic and it was surprisingly quiet. I was worried about going over during the bank holiday, but roads were almost empty and never had to queue for anything - neither were any of the restaurants full.

Day 1
We took the over night ferry from Portsmouth to Le Harve. I booked a cabin for two and it was really pleasant. Had a good nights sleep and it was relatively quiet. I am glad we did not save and get a sleeping seat as I doubt I would have slept with the noisy kids running around!

Day 2
Arrived at Le Harve 8am. As per PH advice I went to:

L and P Bidualt
109 Rue Louis Brindeau
Le Havre

Which is a bakery next to the funny white building which is actually built by Oscar Neimar! Who knew, for apparently the best Almond Croissant ever ... as always I am dubious ... but they were right! It was I think the best I have ever had and it made a nice breakfast.

Drove to Le Mans and had lunch at:

Auberge des 7 plats
79 Grande Rue
72000 Mans (Le), France
+33 (0)2 43 24 57 77

Again recommended by PH. When I arrived I thought about not going to it and picking one of the ones that was around the small square leading up to it especially when I found out that the restaurant appeared to be some set menu affair and quite cheap 10-15 euros!. But I persevered and ordered the Beef .. and my gosh it was amazing! The place was packed as well lots of locals eating their lunch there. Do not miss it and definitely get the beef!

On to the 24 hour museum and my wife loved it as well! Which was a bonus.

Then drove on to our B&B in Oisly:

B&B
LA PILLEBOURDIERE
Route du Vivier, 18
F - 41700 OISLY (Loir et Cher)
+33 (0)254 790 716
Adresse Internet: lapillebourdiere@yahoo.fr
Site Internet: www.lapillebourdiere.fr

I seriously cannot recommend this place enough. The rooms were very big, modern and very comfortable. It is bang in the middle of all the Chateaus so very convenient and the owners were very very very nice. It was very well priced as well. They also give you discount vouchers for the majority of the Chateaus so you get a couple of Euros off each ticket.

That night went to a restaurant about 15mins drive, I forget the name of it - but I was not that impressed.

Day 3
Visited Chambord, Blois the town and the Chateau. Had intended to visit Cheverny, but I think that was too ambitious and we didn't have time.

For lunch we went to L'Orangerie du Chateau opposite Chateau de Blois and it was well priced at around 50 euros each and it was by far the best meal I had there. They could only serve us mains and desert. But the number of intermediate courses made it into a 6 course meal! The portions were huge - my wife had veal and I have never had anything so tender - it just melted in my mouth. I really recommend you go there!

Day 4
Originally want to visit Chaumont, but we gave it a miss due to my experience from the day before about how long we actually needed to spend at each place.
We visited Amboise, then on to Clos Luce for Leonardo DaVinci's house (which is a must visit place). We just had a quick lunch at Clos Luce, expensive and not filling but we didn't have time for more or better.

Visited Tours and the Cathedral and the historic quarter - which was OK, but there are a lot of kebab shops there! Well that is what my wife commented on.

Then went to Chenonceau at 5pm (which was perfect as all the coach visits were leaving at that time and the Chateau was beginning to empty out). It was amazing and don't forget to visit the vegetable garden!! Don't bother with the maze though or any of the mazes unless you have young children.

Had supper booked at Le Bon Laboruer - I thought it was OK, but it was not as good as our lunch at L'Orangerie du Chateau the day before and more expensive and less courses! Plus the Maitre d' did not seem very friendly, not just to us (in fact he never actually came to talk to us, but was quite rude to the table next to us who were trying to be friendly) - though maybe they were not impressed with my noisy car as I was parking. Some of the intermediate courses were actually the same as L'Orangerie and not as well done.

Day 5
Decided to back track and visit Cheverny - it was small, but it had the most amount of furniture and I actually enjoyed it a lot more than I thought I would. Then we went on to Villandry - the gardens as promised were amazing. We wanted to have lunch at l'épicerie gourmande, but it was closed so just visited a cafe around the square.

Then visited chateau-de-langeais to see a more medieval type of castle and to get more history on the wedding place of Charles VIII (Louis XI’s son) and Duchess Anne of Brittany. They had the most amazing tree house in the gardens that is 90% hung from the tree!

Stopped off near the Château d'Azay-le-Rideau, we knew it would be closed but had supper at Les Grottes - which was not a PH recommendation, but something my wife found - and I would not recommend you go there - it was cheap and not too bad but I am sure you can find better.

Day 6
Returned to Caen to the War museum which is definitely worth a visit before jumping on our ferry to our return to Portsmouth. This time not over night just a 4.5hr trip. I was the last car to be put on and was on the flat deck with the trucks. So I had to wait for all the trucks to get off before I could make my way out - not a fun wait.

Fantastic trip and surprised at the Chateaus. I really thought that after seeing a couple they would a be much the same and I would get bored. I was totally wrong each one was so very different.

I also got a Libre T - which enabled me to use the auto tolls. Which was nice, but to be honest there were never any queues at the tolls.

Thanks hope this is useful to someone.




hoyin

Original Poster:

1,233 posts

267 months

Sunday 4th September 2011
quotequote all
I also have a google map with all the places plus some more tagged.

It makes it easier to create custom itineraries for your tomtom.

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msid=202862731217...