Malaysia/Borneo Rainforest Walking?
Discussion
I'm in the process of booking a two week trip to Malaysia with my girlfriend. We've already booked two days in Singapore and a week on Tioman island to dive, snorkel and relax. That leaves 3 days at the start of the holiday to go somewhere else. We want to go on walks in a rainforest somewhere, and stay close by the rainforest somewhere simple but liveable, but are struggling to find anywhere where this is possible.
Bako National Park was high on the list (an hour's flight from Singapore to Kuching, and then on from there), because they have well marked trails that we can follow on our own, which sounds great. However, the accomodation there is apparently pretty dire (barely any running water, rooms that stink, holes in mosquito and window nets, noisy guiests partying into the night etc), the Park haven't answered my booking request after a week, and apparently when they do they'll ask for cash in person a week beforehand, which all sounds unworkable. So Bako's off the list, unless perhaps we stay in Kuching and travel and hour each way to get there each day, which sounds like a right faff.
I then found somewhere called Permai Rainforest Resort elsewhere in Sarawak, but it looks like a giant adventure playground full of families (thus the name "resort"), and with just one expensive guided trip round the rainforest that lasts just two hours. It doesn't sound like our sort of place really.
All we want is to stay somewhere basic but clean and have self guided (solo) walks available to us in the rainforest, about two hours total travel time from Singapore. Any ideas?
Bako National Park was high on the list (an hour's flight from Singapore to Kuching, and then on from there), because they have well marked trails that we can follow on our own, which sounds great. However, the accomodation there is apparently pretty dire (barely any running water, rooms that stink, holes in mosquito and window nets, noisy guiests partying into the night etc), the Park haven't answered my booking request after a week, and apparently when they do they'll ask for cash in person a week beforehand, which all sounds unworkable. So Bako's off the list, unless perhaps we stay in Kuching and travel and hour each way to get there each day, which sounds like a right faff.
I then found somewhere called Permai Rainforest Resort elsewhere in Sarawak, but it looks like a giant adventure playground full of families (thus the name "resort"), and with just one expensive guided trip round the rainforest that lasts just two hours. It doesn't sound like our sort of place really.
All we want is to stay somewhere basic but clean and have self guided (solo) walks available to us in the rainforest, about two hours total travel time from Singapore. Any ideas?
I work in Sarawak, you need to be carfull on jungle trecks on your own, we lost a guy for 3 days last week when he walked out of a construction site and turned the wrong way. Now dispite have a house in Sarawak I stay well clear of the jungle, so I'm not an expert, but I'd suggest Kota Kinabbalu (KK)in Sabah is better for you far more tourist. In Sarawak ther are 4 town, Kuching, very Chinese and a bit of a toutist trap, Sibu, not easy to get to, Miri and Bintulu both of wich are oil towns, but from MIri they do jungle trips and trips to the caves.
You can organize jungle walks on arrival but best bet is to do an organized tour with overnight stay.
All the accomadation outside the town will be of lower quality.
have alook at KK, and I'll ask the people in y office if they know the Park you mention
You can organize jungle walks on arrival but best bet is to do an organized tour with overnight stay.
All the accomadation outside the town will be of lower quality.
have alook at KK, and I'll ask the people in y office if they know the Park you mention
A guy from Kuching justm walked into my office, he recomnends that for Bako you stay at Damai Beach resort, only link I ca find is this. http://www.expedia.com.au/Kuching-Hotels-Damai-Bea...
He said this place is Ok clean and tidy and they organize tours to the park,
He said this place is Ok clean and tidy and they organize tours to the park,
Thanks for your posts. The lack of information on walking does worry us a bit. We're both experienced walkers (in Europe!), and wouldn't go anywhere without a proper map, GPS unit and a compass, but that's just it - there's a complete lack of information on walking routes and maps on the web.
Thanks for your info though, I'll check it all out.
Thanks for your info though, I'll check it all out.
You need to understand Malaysia on maps etc, there was a problem with the communists in the 60's as a result of this maps are still restricted, the whole country is covered by the equivalent of our two and a half inch to a mile maps, actually made by the British OS dept and up to date, but you can only buy them with an approval letter from the government, we have a complete set for Sarawak in the office and they are treated like gold. Up until the mid 90's the roads across Peninsular Malaysia were closed at dusk incase the communists came, that’s stopped now but the map problem exists still.
There are also problems in accessing areas without guilds, you can only climb Mount Kinnabalu with a guild, (which I why I've never done it, done loads of peaks in the Alps and Scandinavia but I have to employ a guild here for what is said to be the easiest 4000M peak in the world, can't be bothered).
If you get to Kuching you will find all the hotels will do you the trips you want, I stay at the HIlton, it’s about 50 pound bed and breakfast for two people.
Walking in the jungle is not like walking in Europe, leaches are a big problem if you get off the main roads navigation is a huge problem, the figures for the number of people who go missing is unbelievable, we interface with the Penan Indian tribes a lot and we get asked to look for people all the time, (we have a helicopter) and these are people who live there, I was told that there are at least 3 Indians a year who go missing in the jungle never to be seen again, .
I was out the other week and was warned not to walk downstream as there were crocodiles there, general rule is go on an organized tour unless you know about the Jungle, it’s amazing how even a few feet from the road it is so thick, as I say not for me.
All the national parks have marked trails, there are several near my house, you drive up register and then go for a walk, the warden keeps a record in case you don’t return, but you won’t see thing like Orangutans from these trails, I’ve been in and out of Borneo for 12 years I’ve never meet anyone who has seen a Orangutan or the Baby Elephant in the wild, but you do see interesting things, passed two Hornbills on the side of the road as I drove to work Friday.
I suggest you look at Kota Kinabalu, it is much the most tourist orientated town on Borneo, I stay at Le Meridian, in the town center, right opposite the restaurants on the sea front, good first night then go from there.
And Singapore is not the best place to get to Borneo, there are regular Air Asia flights to Kuala Lumpur, I booked yesterday to fly to KL today 100 pound, Malaysian Airlines cheapest flight is just over 300 pound if booked within 24 hours.
There are also problems in accessing areas without guilds, you can only climb Mount Kinnabalu with a guild, (which I why I've never done it, done loads of peaks in the Alps and Scandinavia but I have to employ a guild here for what is said to be the easiest 4000M peak in the world, can't be bothered).
If you get to Kuching you will find all the hotels will do you the trips you want, I stay at the HIlton, it’s about 50 pound bed and breakfast for two people.
Walking in the jungle is not like walking in Europe, leaches are a big problem if you get off the main roads navigation is a huge problem, the figures for the number of people who go missing is unbelievable, we interface with the Penan Indian tribes a lot and we get asked to look for people all the time, (we have a helicopter) and these are people who live there, I was told that there are at least 3 Indians a year who go missing in the jungle never to be seen again, .
I was out the other week and was warned not to walk downstream as there were crocodiles there, general rule is go on an organized tour unless you know about the Jungle, it’s amazing how even a few feet from the road it is so thick, as I say not for me.
All the national parks have marked trails, there are several near my house, you drive up register and then go for a walk, the warden keeps a record in case you don’t return, but you won’t see thing like Orangutans from these trails, I’ve been in and out of Borneo for 12 years I’ve never meet anyone who has seen a Orangutan or the Baby Elephant in the wild, but you do see interesting things, passed two Hornbills on the side of the road as I drove to work Friday.
I suggest you look at Kota Kinabalu, it is much the most tourist orientated town on Borneo, I stay at Le Meridian, in the town center, right opposite the restaurants on the sea front, good first night then go from there.
And Singapore is not the best place to get to Borneo, there are regular Air Asia flights to Kuala Lumpur, I booked yesterday to fly to KL today 100 pound, Malaysian Airlines cheapest flight is just over 300 pound if booked within 24 hours.
Thank you so much - that's really helpful.
I think perhaps I wasn't too clear on what we want to do. We want to follow marked trails, we don't want to go wandering off on our own with no real idea of where we're going! The problem is that Bako is the only place so far that are explicit on the web about having marked trails. We don't want to travel there especially without knowing in advance that there's a list of trails we can follow, and the other parks just list the wildlife you can see, with nothing about trails at all.
We certainly wouldn't expect to see Orangutans, don't worry
Singapore? It fits with our other two stays during the two weeks (Singapore itself and Tioman island), and it's cheaper and easier to get a return flight to there from the UK.
I think perhaps I wasn't too clear on what we want to do. We want to follow marked trails, we don't want to go wandering off on our own with no real idea of where we're going! The problem is that Bako is the only place so far that are explicit on the web about having marked trails. We don't want to travel there especially without knowing in advance that there's a list of trails we can follow, and the other parks just list the wildlife you can see, with nothing about trails at all.
We certainly wouldn't expect to see Orangutans, don't worry
Singapore? It fits with our other two stays during the two weeks (Singapore itself and Tioman island), and it's cheaper and easier to get a return flight to there from the UK.
Edited by RobM77 on Wednesday 2nd November 10:58
Went to borneo a couple of years ago, stayed in Le Meridien in Kota Kinabalu and climbed mount Kinabalu with a guide. We also flew to sandekan to visit the orangutan sancturary at sepilok which was pants to be honest. We stayed a couple of nights in a jungly lodge thing by the monkey place and yer woman Asian actress out of James Bond was in the cabin next to us. We took a couple of guided night time jungle treks which were great, so much noise and wired critters out there, plus we got covered in leeches. Overall great experience but if I had do similar again would chose to do it with a bird who was not s
t scared of bugs and roughing it.
t scared of bugs and roughing it.Thanks JD.
I'm currently looking at the Cameron Highlands. They seem to have better marked trails, and unlike other parks, I've actually found real evidence that the trails exist and maps etc online, which I wanted to before booking anything. Plus of course that area is much closer to Singapore.
I'm currently looking at the Cameron Highlands. They seem to have better marked trails, and unlike other parks, I've actually found real evidence that the trails exist and maps etc online, which I wanted to before booking anything. Plus of course that area is much closer to Singapore.
Rob, I understand you want to walk on the marked trail, but even thee are dagerous without a guild, the jungle walking is not like in Europe an end in itselk, there are few views etc, you just go for he animals, all the jungle is the same.
The KK trip suggested is the noramal thing to do.
Cameron is completly diffrent no jungle, tea plantations, openryside, more 'Euopean'
The KK trip suggested is the noramal thing to do.
Cameron is completly diffrent no jungle, tea plantations, open
ryside, more 'Euopean' Berw said:
Rob, I understand you want to walk on the marked trail, but even thee are dagerous without a guild, the jungle walking is not like in Europe an end in itselk, there are few views etc, you just go for he animals, all the jungle is the same.
The KK trip suggested is the noramal thing to do.
Cameron is completly diffrent no jungle, tea plantations, openryside, more 'Euopean'
I'm afraid guided walls aren't an option for me due to back problems. I would if I could. Are you sure marked trails aren't safe on your own? The parks and travel guides say differently, although as I've never been I wouldn't know. I just found it confusing.The KK trip suggested is the noramal thing to do.
Cameron is completly diffrent no jungle, tea plantations, open
ryside, more 'Euopean' This is the sort of thing I've been looking at in Cameron:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nf2_rlfYITI&fea...
Edited by RobM77 on Thursday 3rd November 11:48
Jackleman said:
I can highly recommend the Taman Negara national park which is about 3 hours away from KL.
Thanks very much, I've looked it up and they lost lots of clearly marked trails that are safe to walk on your own, which is great.http://www.taman-negara.com/
Edited by RobM77 on Thursday 3rd November 09:03
Taman Negara is a good introduction to the fringes of "proper" jungle. Bloody hot, leeches, not seeing any wildlife, getting no sleep in a hut due to a rat that sounds like a giant tiger...
Good contrast to the Cameron Highlands, which are much cooler and more like Surrey
You can trek in TN without a guide fairly easily, at least on the shorter treks. The paths are obvious. And if you do wonder which way to go, stand still for a bit and someone will be along, it is very popular.
Good contrast to the Cameron Highlands, which are much cooler and more like Surrey
You can trek in TN without a guide fairly easily, at least on the shorter treks. The paths are obvious. And if you do wonder which way to go, stand still for a bit and someone will be along, it is very popular.
Thanks Noger 
I'm not travelling for 12 hours on a plane to go somewhere like Surrey, so I may cross the Cameron Highlands off the list 
This place has now been added to the mix:
http://www.thekebun.com/
Utterly stunning accomodation, the like of which I hadn't even considered before, especially not on this holiday. it's also close to Kuching, so easy access from Singapore (super cheap flights with Air Asia only take an hour). There's a national park a short walk away with clearly marked trails for safe solo walking, and the bungalow can organise boat trips etc. It's top of the list at the moment and I've e-mailed them for availability and to check NP access.
I'm not travelling for 12 hours on a plane to go somewhere like Surrey, so I may cross the Cameron Highlands off the list This place has now been added to the mix:
http://www.thekebun.com/
Utterly stunning accomodation, the like of which I hadn't even considered before, especially not on this holiday. it's also close to Kuching, so easy access from Singapore (super cheap flights with Air Asia only take an hour). There's a national park a short walk away with clearly marked trails for safe solo walking, and the bungalow can organise boat trips etc. It's top of the list at the moment and I've e-mailed them for availability and to check NP access.
Noger said:
Taman Negara is a good introduction to the fringes of "proper" jungle. Bloody hot, leeches, not seeing any wildlife, getting no sleep in a hut due to a rat that sounds like a giant tiger...
Good contrast to the Cameron Highlands, which are much cooler and more like Surrey
You can trek in TN without a guide fairly easily, at least on the shorter treks. The paths are obvious. And if you do wonder which way to go, stand still for a bit and someone will be along, it is very popular.
I did a 2 day trek in Teman Negara with a few other people I met there, it was totally amazing and I would love to do it again. After that trek I did some day treks with a friend I made on the 2 day trek and we found the trails really well organised close to the park HQ and to be honest you could go quite a bit further without any issues as long you kept the local topography in reference such as the river etc.Good contrast to the Cameron Highlands, which are much cooler and more like Surrey
You can trek in TN without a guide fairly easily, at least on the shorter treks. The paths are obvious. And if you do wonder which way to go, stand still for a bit and someone will be along, it is very popular.
Cameron Highlands are not really jungle trekking IMHO.
Rob, I've been to all the Borneo attractions mentioned above both in Sarawak and Saba less "the kebun".
From Kuchin, Bako was good but the accommodation was basic rather than plush, we had no aircon and it was a little sticky being our first trip out. The accommodation was not as bad as you have been lead to believe.
The park at Mulu is also worth a look, i preferred it to Bako. The spectical of the bats leaving the large cave at dusk has got to be seen to be believed.
From Miri a favourite day trip was to Niah National Park. Here you can walk in guided along boardwalks to a fantastic cave system. Human remains and cave art date back 40,000 years and the gravest of birds nests and guano continues to this day. You can walk right through the cave system and see the locals working 50m above you head. Front Miri just hire a taxi for the day (about £35) to take you there and back.
From Kuching, the short trip to Semenggoh would let you see Orangutans, they are all rescues but most are now released and visit the centre for the fruit that's put out. Semenggoh was far more relaxed and less zoo like than Sepelok.
If you choose Saba instead and can afford it try Danum Valley, it's one of the few places left you can stay in primary rather than secondary rainforest, the amount of activity you do is up to you but you can start before breakfast and finish in the dark if you want. We saw wild Orangutans which I never though I would, along with all sorts of crawling, walking and flying creatures. As with most of the parks in Malaysian Borneo the activities are guided but the pace can be a gentle as you want.
If you go to Sandakan don't forget to visit the war memorials. The descriptions from the "death marches" are a poignant reminder of the war time atrocities created by the desire for oil in the region.
If you'd rather not walk very far, one of the Kinabatangan River trips would also be a fun way to fill a few days, lots of wildlife including crocks all seen by boat.
If I was recommending one place it would be Danum Valley. However, each park has its own character and surprisingly varied flora, fauna and scenery. Pick one and you won't be disappointed.
Number31
From Kuchin, Bako was good but the accommodation was basic rather than plush, we had no aircon and it was a little sticky being our first trip out. The accommodation was not as bad as you have been lead to believe.
The park at Mulu is also worth a look, i preferred it to Bako. The spectical of the bats leaving the large cave at dusk has got to be seen to be believed.
From Miri a favourite day trip was to Niah National Park. Here you can walk in guided along boardwalks to a fantastic cave system. Human remains and cave art date back 40,000 years and the gravest of birds nests and guano continues to this day. You can walk right through the cave system and see the locals working 50m above you head. Front Miri just hire a taxi for the day (about £35) to take you there and back.
From Kuching, the short trip to Semenggoh would let you see Orangutans, they are all rescues but most are now released and visit the centre for the fruit that's put out. Semenggoh was far more relaxed and less zoo like than Sepelok.
If you choose Saba instead and can afford it try Danum Valley, it's one of the few places left you can stay in primary rather than secondary rainforest, the amount of activity you do is up to you but you can start before breakfast and finish in the dark if you want. We saw wild Orangutans which I never though I would, along with all sorts of crawling, walking and flying creatures. As with most of the parks in Malaysian Borneo the activities are guided but the pace can be a gentle as you want.
If you go to Sandakan don't forget to visit the war memorials. The descriptions from the "death marches" are a poignant reminder of the war time atrocities created by the desire for oil in the region.
If you'd rather not walk very far, one of the Kinabatangan River trips would also be a fun way to fill a few days, lots of wildlife including crocks all seen by boat.
If I was recommending one place it would be Danum Valley. However, each park has its own character and surprisingly varied flora, fauna and scenery. Pick one and you won't be disappointed.
Number31
Sorry if I did not make myself clear, the marked trais are safe on your own, if you are fit and have a'sense' of direction, but people can and do get lost, (a lot more than the people who visit Borneo for a hoilday will ever know) my son does them on his own when he comes out and I don't worry, but he tells me where he is going, but my point is you tend not to see much, as the animals know to stay away, it is worth paying for the guild, and going a bit of 'track', you do not go in the jungle or walk for the view, (like you would say in the Alps) you go for the animals, and the animals don't go where European holiday makers get to on their own, a few monkeys and snakes don't count you can see them in my garden.
Any accomadation in the national park is going to be a bit on the low end,
Going off the beacon track on your own I would not recomend, extreme example, but there was a rubber tapper killed by a tiger only 50 KM from kl only last year,
Any accomadation in the national park is going to be a bit on the low end,
Going off the beacon track on your own I would not recomend, extreme example, but there was a rubber tapper killed by a tiger only 50 KM from kl only last year,
We've now booked The Kebun . The couple that run it have e-mailed a couple of times and seem extremely friendly, and have confirmed that the marked trails in Kubah NP are easy to follow. Trip Advisor reviews are all glowing, so we're looking forward to it!
Bewr: Thanks - that's clear now. We'll be careful, tell people where we're going and take a compass, phone (if they work) GPS etc. We don't intend to head off the paths so I'm sure we'll be fine. A guided trip does sound like the best plan, yes, but having tried them before I definitely wouldn't again due to my back (walking slowly is painful for me, and I need to stop every now and then to stretch).
Thanks to everyone for all of the advice. I'll certainly bookmark this thread for advice on other places to visit if we go back to Malaysia
. The couple that run it have e-mailed a couple of times and seem extremely friendly, and have confirmed that the marked trails in Kubah NP are easy to follow. Trip Advisor reviews are all glowing, so we're looking forward to it!Bewr: Thanks
- that's clear now. We'll be careful, tell people where we're going and take a compass, phone (if they work) GPS etc. We don't intend to head off the paths so I'm sure we'll be fine. A guided trip does sound like the best plan, yes, but having tried them before I definitely wouldn't again due to my back (walking slowly is painful for me, and I need to stop every now and then to stretch).Thanks to everyone for all of the advice. I'll certainly bookmark this thread for advice on other places to visit if we go back to Malaysia
I'm even excited about travelling on a big plane for the first time.Gassing Station | Holidays & Travel | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff