Basque Country Food and Wine Tour - recommendations please
Discussion
We're planning a gastro / pintxos tour of the Basque Country for early May this year. Nothing is planned or booked yet as it's all a bit last minute as we've had some family challenges for the past few months and now they're "resolved" we need some "us time".
We've been a few times, but have previously focused on the headliners - San Sebastian, Logrono, Bilbao and Santander.
We want to spread our wings somewhat. The initial plan was to fly and the do the whole thing using trains and buses, but I now think we're going to do this trip by car.
I've put together the following long list of places, mainly from reading various threads on here:
Haro
Hondarribia
Ainsa
Borgos
Deba
Pamplona
Zarautz
Santona
and then there's
San Sebastian
Logrono
Bilbao
Santander
I'd be interested in any views / experiences / thoughts on any of the places in the first list. Deba is on there for very personal reasons, so we're going there for sure, but I'd still be interested in recommendations for bars and hotels. Unlike many on here, I'm not that concerned about car parking - I've never had a problem yet.
We've been a few times, but have previously focused on the headliners - San Sebastian, Logrono, Bilbao and Santander.
We want to spread our wings somewhat. The initial plan was to fly and the do the whole thing using trains and buses, but I now think we're going to do this trip by car.
I've put together the following long list of places, mainly from reading various threads on here:
Haro
Hondarribia
Ainsa
Borgos
Deba
Pamplona
Zarautz
Santona
and then there's
San Sebastian
Logrono
Bilbao
Santander
I'd be interested in any views / experiences / thoughts on any of the places in the first list. Deba is on there for very personal reasons, so we're going there for sure, but I'd still be interested in recommendations for bars and hotels. Unlike many on here, I'm not that concerned about car parking - I've never had a problem yet.
I’ve done Pamplona twice for the bull run , don’t dismiss it in July as there’s a great atmosphere , it’s a great place to wander around grazing , it is a decent size city .
Went to hondarriba on the way back , it’s one of those curious places that for all its big the centre is quite small , very good strip of tapas bars with great food and there’s a small boat ferry if you eat to go to France for an hour for the novelty.
Went to hondarriba on the way back , it’s one of those curious places that for all its big the centre is quite small , very good strip of tapas bars with great food and there’s a small boat ferry if you eat to go to France for an hour for the novelty.
Here's my 2p on the food:
Haro :
RESTAURANTE TERETE - they do a set menu featuring amazing slow cooked lamb in a wood oven. Option up to the Grand Reserva wine for an extra 10 Euro. Book ahead and don't plan on eating another meal that day.
Hondarribia :
We stayed in Hotel Palacio Obispo which was cool, the car got a lot of attention parked in the square out the front of the hotel! The hotel is in the old medieval bit at the top of town which is one pintxos hunting area.
Bar Gran Sol Hondarribia was our favourite food in town. Arrive at opening or book a table! It's on San Pedro Kalea which is the other main pintxos area.
Ainsa :
It's a lovely town but we've found eating here a bit meh. There is one fancy restaurant in town (Callizo) but we've not managed to book in.
Pub L' Abrevadero does fantastic craft beer in Ainsa.
We have stayed in Jaca in that area a few times and enjoyed the restaurants and bars a lot, but it's nowhere near as fetching as Ainsa. Nearby Canfranc Estacion is a fabulous destination hotel and has a couple fancy of restaurants (one with a star) hosted in train carriages.
Borgos :
Museum of Human Evolution was really, really good.
EAT ALL THE MORCILLA which is the local speciality. There's loads of little vermuterias to crawl around, I think we were there on a weekend so we just ate where we could squeeze into.
Restaurante Casa Ojeda has a wonderful classic interior. They've got a little tapas section on the side if you don't want a full meal.
Pamplona :
Café Iruña - another famous interior with Hemingway connections, maybe just stop for a drink.
It's got a happening night life so we just grazed and walked. Cafe Bar Gaucho did very good meat-on-a-stick and foie.
Santona :
They make the best anchovies in the world and host the world championship. We stopped at another cannery in Llastres where the manager explained to us that there are different grades from a single cannery but this is around the bones - the more expensive ones have the tiny bones manually removed which adds a lot to the price. He told us to just buy more of the cheap ones! We've not stayed in Santona, only called in for lunch and stocked up on cans to take home.
Lots of the bars in town seem to get very middling reviews on google for some reason? We didn't see much difference but Pachi Mesón is one of the more highly rated and was good.
Taberna El Antiguo had a very friendly owner and a fantastic meat plate. He was serving anchovies from La Reina Del Cantabrico who were the current world champs and are on the same street.
Logrono :
Bar Soriano for the famous mushroom / prawn / GARLIC on a stick on a bread.
Bar Páganos for the different iberico pork skewers and Bar Lorenzo "Agus Tio" for the same but on bread with amazing green sauce.
I'm so hungry now, take me back!
Haro :
RESTAURANTE TERETE - they do a set menu featuring amazing slow cooked lamb in a wood oven. Option up to the Grand Reserva wine for an extra 10 Euro. Book ahead and don't plan on eating another meal that day.
Hondarribia :
We stayed in Hotel Palacio Obispo which was cool, the car got a lot of attention parked in the square out the front of the hotel! The hotel is in the old medieval bit at the top of town which is one pintxos hunting area.
Bar Gran Sol Hondarribia was our favourite food in town. Arrive at opening or book a table! It's on San Pedro Kalea which is the other main pintxos area.
Ainsa :
It's a lovely town but we've found eating here a bit meh. There is one fancy restaurant in town (Callizo) but we've not managed to book in.
Pub L' Abrevadero does fantastic craft beer in Ainsa.

We have stayed in Jaca in that area a few times and enjoyed the restaurants and bars a lot, but it's nowhere near as fetching as Ainsa. Nearby Canfranc Estacion is a fabulous destination hotel and has a couple fancy of restaurants (one with a star) hosted in train carriages.
Borgos :
Museum of Human Evolution was really, really good.
EAT ALL THE MORCILLA which is the local speciality. There's loads of little vermuterias to crawl around, I think we were there on a weekend so we just ate where we could squeeze into.
Restaurante Casa Ojeda has a wonderful classic interior. They've got a little tapas section on the side if you don't want a full meal.
Pamplona :
Café Iruña - another famous interior with Hemingway connections, maybe just stop for a drink.
It's got a happening night life so we just grazed and walked. Cafe Bar Gaucho did very good meat-on-a-stick and foie.
Santona :
They make the best anchovies in the world and host the world championship. We stopped at another cannery in Llastres where the manager explained to us that there are different grades from a single cannery but this is around the bones - the more expensive ones have the tiny bones manually removed which adds a lot to the price. He told us to just buy more of the cheap ones! We've not stayed in Santona, only called in for lunch and stocked up on cans to take home.
Lots of the bars in town seem to get very middling reviews on google for some reason? We didn't see much difference but Pachi Mesón is one of the more highly rated and was good.
Taberna El Antiguo had a very friendly owner and a fantastic meat plate. He was serving anchovies from La Reina Del Cantabrico who were the current world champs and are on the same street.
Logrono :
Bar Soriano for the famous mushroom / prawn / GARLIC on a stick on a bread.
Bar Páganos for the different iberico pork skewers and Bar Lorenzo "Agus Tio" for the same but on bread with amazing green sauce.
I'm so hungry now, take me back!

seefarr said:
Here's my 2p on the food:
Haro :
RESTAURANTE TERETE - they do a set menu featuring amazing slow cooked lamb in a wood oven. Option up to the Grand Reserva wine for an extra 10 Euro. Book ahead and don't plan on eating another meal that day.
Hondarribia :
We stayed in Hotel Palacio Obispo which was cool, the car got a lot of attention parked in the square out the front of the hotel! The hotel is in the old medieval bit at the top of town which is one pintxos hunting area.
Bar Gran Sol Hondarribia was our favourite food in town. Arrive at opening or book a table! It's on San Pedro Kalea which is the other main pintxos area.
Ainsa :
It's a lovely town but we've found eating here a bit meh. There is one fancy restaurant in town (Callizo) but we've not managed to book in.
Pub L' Abrevadero does fantastic craft beer in Ainsa.
We have stayed in Jaca in that area a few times and enjoyed the restaurants and bars a lot, but it's nowhere near as fetching as Ainsa. Nearby Canfranc Estacion is a fabulous destination hotel and has a couple fancy of restaurants (one with a star) hosted in train carriages.
Borgos :
Museum of Human Evolution was really, really good.
EAT ALL THE MORCILLA which is the local speciality. There's loads of little vermuterias to crawl around, I think we were there on a weekend so we just ate where we could squeeze into.
Restaurante Casa Ojeda has a wonderful classic interior. They've got a little tapas section on the side if you don't want a full meal.
Pamplona :
Café Iruña - another famous interior with Hemingway connections, maybe just stop for a drink.
It's got a happening night life so we just grazed and walked. Cafe Bar Gaucho did very good meat-on-a-stick and foie.
Santona :
They make the best anchovies in the world and host the world championship. We stopped at another cannery in Llastres where the manager explained to us that there are different grades from a single cannery but this is around the bones - the more expensive ones have the tiny bones manually removed which adds a lot to the price. He told us to just buy more of the cheap ones! We've not stayed in Santona, only called in for lunch and stocked up on cans to take home.
Lots of the bars in town seem to get very middling reviews on google for some reason? We didn't see much difference but Pachi Mesón is one of the more highly rated and was good.
Taberna El Antiguo had a very friendly owner and a fantastic meat plate. He was serving anchovies from La Reina Del Cantabrico who were the current world champs and are on the same street.
Logrono :
Bar Soriano for the famous mushroom / prawn / GARLIC on a stick on a bread.
Bar Páganos for the different iberico pork skewers and Bar Lorenzo "Agus Tio" for the same but on bread with amazing green sauce.
I'm so hungry now, take me back!
Wow - thanks for all that info, it is definitely much appreciated.Haro :
RESTAURANTE TERETE - they do a set menu featuring amazing slow cooked lamb in a wood oven. Option up to the Grand Reserva wine for an extra 10 Euro. Book ahead and don't plan on eating another meal that day.
Hondarribia :
We stayed in Hotel Palacio Obispo which was cool, the car got a lot of attention parked in the square out the front of the hotel! The hotel is in the old medieval bit at the top of town which is one pintxos hunting area.
Bar Gran Sol Hondarribia was our favourite food in town. Arrive at opening or book a table! It's on San Pedro Kalea which is the other main pintxos area.
Ainsa :
It's a lovely town but we've found eating here a bit meh. There is one fancy restaurant in town (Callizo) but we've not managed to book in.
Pub L' Abrevadero does fantastic craft beer in Ainsa.

We have stayed in Jaca in that area a few times and enjoyed the restaurants and bars a lot, but it's nowhere near as fetching as Ainsa. Nearby Canfranc Estacion is a fabulous destination hotel and has a couple fancy of restaurants (one with a star) hosted in train carriages.
Borgos :
Museum of Human Evolution was really, really good.
EAT ALL THE MORCILLA which is the local speciality. There's loads of little vermuterias to crawl around, I think we were there on a weekend so we just ate where we could squeeze into.
Restaurante Casa Ojeda has a wonderful classic interior. They've got a little tapas section on the side if you don't want a full meal.
Pamplona :
Café Iruña - another famous interior with Hemingway connections, maybe just stop for a drink.
It's got a happening night life so we just grazed and walked. Cafe Bar Gaucho did very good meat-on-a-stick and foie.
Santona :
They make the best anchovies in the world and host the world championship. We stopped at another cannery in Llastres where the manager explained to us that there are different grades from a single cannery but this is around the bones - the more expensive ones have the tiny bones manually removed which adds a lot to the price. He told us to just buy more of the cheap ones! We've not stayed in Santona, only called in for lunch and stocked up on cans to take home.
Lots of the bars in town seem to get very middling reviews on google for some reason? We didn't see much difference but Pachi Mesón is one of the more highly rated and was good.
Taberna El Antiguo had a very friendly owner and a fantastic meat plate. He was serving anchovies from La Reina Del Cantabrico who were the current world champs and are on the same street.
Logrono :
Bar Soriano for the famous mushroom / prawn / GARLIC on a stick on a bread.
Bar Páganos for the different iberico pork skewers and Bar Lorenzo "Agus Tio" for the same but on bread with amazing green sauce.
I'm so hungry now, take me back!

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