Little French Odyssey La Rochelle Bordeaux & Nantes
Discussion
Although we’ve been a few times, I always feel like I haven’t seen enough of France by comparison to other European countries that we visit and I’d definitely like to see more of the French Atlantic coast.
In June, we’re going to fly to Bordeaux for 2 nights, then travel down to La Rochelle for 5 nights finishing up with 2 nights in Nantes before flying home from there.
We don’t have much of a plan other then that with the exception of visiting St Emilion whilst in Bordeaux and across to Saint Martin on Il de Re whilst in La Rochelle (and hopefully relax a bit there).
Are there any unmissable things that we must see/do whilst on our little trip? Any fantastic, standout places to eat & drink etc?
We’ve booked central hotels to stay in each city and will be getting the train between cities.
I'd really appreciate any advice or gems you can share!
In June, we’re going to fly to Bordeaux for 2 nights, then travel down to La Rochelle for 5 nights finishing up with 2 nights in Nantes before flying home from there.
We don’t have much of a plan other then that with the exception of visiting St Emilion whilst in Bordeaux and across to Saint Martin on Il de Re whilst in La Rochelle (and hopefully relax a bit there).
Are there any unmissable things that we must see/do whilst on our little trip? Any fantastic, standout places to eat & drink etc?
We’ve booked central hotels to stay in each city and will be getting the train between cities.
I'd really appreciate any advice or gems you can share!
Nantes is a cool city & walkable - there is also a tram system. I was there at the beginning of the month.
Lots of standard French city: cathedral, chateau museums, gardens etc all in the centre. Good shopping, if that appeals, make sure to walk through Passage Pommeraye.
Main attraction's probably Les Machines De L'ile, which is very impressive; plus the quayside (some WWII remnants) & there's a French naval ship that you can visit (I haven't).
Nantes airport's on the outskirts & has a habit of having departures at a similar time so bear in mind for security & passport as it gets busy. EES machines weren't working when we went through. BTW, there's not much in the Departure lounge once through passport: a small cafe & some vending machines.
There's also Lockheed Constellation preserved at the airport - hard to get to without a car, but you see it from the plane as you land/take off.
We're often in La Rochelle (inc end March) & on Ille de Re. LR has the medieval centre, historic port, walls, market, gardens etc, all good for exploring; plus little ferry - 5 min journey. The aquarium's excellent & worth visiting. Lots of places to eat, we usually have lunch at Bistrot des pêcheurs, which is on the front.
There's also a new(ish) museum within a WWII submarine pen within the modern port. I've not been there yet, but it looks interesting - not sure how to get there without a car.
Assume you'll get a ferry or boat to Ille de Re. Saint Martin's similar to LR, eateries arranged around the port/marina (inc famous ice cream place). Historic buildings & streets, shops, galleries etc. You can walk up one of the church towers for a great view.
Enjoy.
Lots of standard French city: cathedral, chateau museums, gardens etc all in the centre. Good shopping, if that appeals, make sure to walk through Passage Pommeraye.
Main attraction's probably Les Machines De L'ile, which is very impressive; plus the quayside (some WWII remnants) & there's a French naval ship that you can visit (I haven't).
Nantes airport's on the outskirts & has a habit of having departures at a similar time so bear in mind for security & passport as it gets busy. EES machines weren't working when we went through. BTW, there's not much in the Departure lounge once through passport: a small cafe & some vending machines.
There's also Lockheed Constellation preserved at the airport - hard to get to without a car, but you see it from the plane as you land/take off.
We're often in La Rochelle (inc end March) & on Ille de Re. LR has the medieval centre, historic port, walls, market, gardens etc, all good for exploring; plus little ferry - 5 min journey. The aquarium's excellent & worth visiting. Lots of places to eat, we usually have lunch at Bistrot des pêcheurs, which is on the front.
There's also a new(ish) museum within a WWII submarine pen within the modern port. I've not been there yet, but it looks interesting - not sure how to get there without a car.
Assume you'll get a ferry or boat to Ille de Re. Saint Martin's similar to LR, eateries arranged around the port/marina (inc famous ice cream place). Historic buildings & streets, shops, galleries etc. You can walk up one of the church towers for a great view.
Enjoy.
Any interest in the wineries? It’s worth being aware that:
1) You need to book in advance for most of them;
2) They’re (mostly) a bit of a drive to get to, although a couple can be reached by public transport;
3) They vary in their approach to visits: some are really accessible, some hard to get into and in depth.
1) You need to book in advance for most of them;
2) They’re (mostly) a bit of a drive to get to, although a couple can be reached by public transport;
3) They vary in their approach to visits: some are really accessible, some hard to get into and in depth.
You probably don't have enough time when in Bordeaux but a trip to Cap Ferret is worth the effort. Take the train to Arcachon then ferry across the bay to Cap Ferret. We've spent a few family holidays there and it's such a lovely area.
We also did a week doing the wineries around St Emilion, that was fantastic as well. The best one was a little, rundown place that we didn't book in advance. We just stopped and asked an elderly gentleman if we could see around. It turned out he was the owner, engineer, foreman, chief cook and bottle-washer. A wine geek basically and incredibly interesting to listen to. He would have talked all day!
We also did a week doing the wineries around St Emilion, that was fantastic as well. The best one was a little, rundown place that we didn't book in advance. We just stopped and asked an elderly gentleman if we could see around. It turned out he was the owner, engineer, foreman, chief cook and bottle-washer. A wine geek basically and incredibly interesting to listen to. He would have talked all day!
+1 for how nice Nantes was, it felt like a mini Paris sat on the Loire and with some winding streets, it was quite hilly but walkable and fine.
We did a day trip in last year when staying outside on the coast, driving wise we parked outside the town. Restaurant choice for lunch was fantastic and the shops were bustling and some looked very nice and boutique yet not overpriced.
I would more than happily go for a long weekend again.
Make sure you hook a ride on Le Elephant!
We did a day trip in last year when staying outside on the coast, driving wise we parked outside the town. Restaurant choice for lunch was fantastic and the shops were bustling and some looked very nice and boutique yet not overpriced.
I would more than happily go for a long weekend again.
Make sure you hook a ride on Le Elephant!
I’d definitely suggest a visit to Citie du Vin when you’re in Bordeaux
St Emilion is wonderful but there are surprisingly few good restaurants. Try la Table 38 for authentic simple regional cuisine, just a little bit off the main tourist spots, Lard et Bouchon for something atmospheric, and la Huitrier Pie for a bit of a treat
Just outside the town, there is a nice vineyard B&B called Chateau la Grace Dieu that does a very drinkable Pomerol https://www.chateaulagracedieu.fr/en/home/
If you fancy straying just a little further east, Chateau Carbonneau is a wonderful little Chateau hotel and vineyard with a fascinating backstory https://en.chateau-carbonneau.com
On Ile de Re, Le Clos St Martin is our favourite hotel if it’s just Mrs C and I. If we want a more family, beach vibe with children/dog etc, we love Hotel Vieux Greement in La Couarde Sur Mer
St Emilion is wonderful but there are surprisingly few good restaurants. Try la Table 38 for authentic simple regional cuisine, just a little bit off the main tourist spots, Lard et Bouchon for something atmospheric, and la Huitrier Pie for a bit of a treat
Just outside the town, there is a nice vineyard B&B called Chateau la Grace Dieu that does a very drinkable Pomerol https://www.chateaulagracedieu.fr/en/home/
If you fancy straying just a little further east, Chateau Carbonneau is a wonderful little Chateau hotel and vineyard with a fascinating backstory https://en.chateau-carbonneau.com
On Ile de Re, Le Clos St Martin is our favourite hotel if it’s just Mrs C and I. If we want a more family, beach vibe with children/dog etc, we love Hotel Vieux Greement in La Couarde Sur Mer
Thank you very much everybody - fantastic info.
Definitely want to get involved in the wine and was thinking about booking a visit to Château La Gaffelière but will also look at the others mentioned. Cite du Vin is also on the itinerary.
It would be great to drive down there but we just don’t have the time right now due to work commitments.
Definitely want to get involved in the wine and was thinking about booking a visit to Château La Gaffelière but will also look at the others mentioned. Cite du Vin is also on the itinerary.
It would be great to drive down there but we just don’t have the time right now due to work commitments.
Another thing that’s worth doing on Ile de Re is hiring a Mehari. There are lots of places along the main road that have tatty ones priced to attract tourists but we use a little place opposite the art gallery in St Martin that have better, more reasonably priced cars. They only have two so worth booking in advance. If you’re interested, I’ll dig out their details
If you want a winery accessible by public transport from the centre of Bordeaux, consider: https://www.chateau-pape-clement.fr/en/visites-ate...
If you’re driving around a bit, Cafe Lavinal (next to Lynch Bages) is a good shout for lunch.
If you’re driving around a bit, Cafe Lavinal (next to Lynch Bages) is a good shout for lunch.
ClaphamGT3 said:
Another thing that s worth doing on Ile de Re is hiring a Mehari. There are lots of places along the main road that have tatty ones priced to attract tourists but we use a little place opposite the art gallery in St Martin that have better, more reasonably priced cars. They only have two so worth booking in advance. If you re interested, I ll dig out their details
Here they were in summer 2023:TCEvo said:
ClaphamGT3 said:
Another thing that s worth doing on Ile de Re is hiring a Mehari. There are lots of places along the main road that have tatty ones priced to attract tourists but we use a little place opposite the art gallery in St Martin that have better, more reasonably priced cars. They only have two so worth booking in advance. If you re interested, I ll dig out their details
Here they were in summer 2023:
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