DJCs Croatia holiday blog
Discussion
Some twenty years or so young David read about a place that was known as the Pearl of the Adriatic. Ive dreamed of going ever since. It was where European Royalty came to holiday, hang out, party and general hog the best part of the Med to themselves. St Tropez, Nice, even Monaco were were the rich and importantly the famous went. Hollywood by the sea. The merely very rich and decidedly not seeking any fame at al went instead to this small sliver of coastline and walled town.
Dubrovnik.
Ive wanted to come here ever since, unfortunately though somebody decided in the meatime that it would be a jolly nice thing if they all went around shooting each other.
I looked again 5 yrs ago, figuring that the Balkans had quietened down. Kosovo had gone to sleep and maybe the place was alive and kicking again. Well it was trying to, but the prices were higher than pre way ludicrous, figure #5k for a week. Back to the drawing board then.
But now Im here. My somewhat of a cirtuitous route Ive found myself booking a 2 week, 3 centre stay along the coast in Dubrovnik, Hvar Island and just north of Split, Trogir, also known as Little Venice.
We are currently a 5mins or so taxi or no7 bus ride out of Dubrovnik harbour. Only one lot of English voices heard so far...Tonker if yer reading, dont worry Ive found your family! Typical isnt it, you travel 1000 miles from home and the only buggers you hear are Lancastrians!
The hotel isnt the classiest joint in the world, but it does have what I wanted as the prime requisite for my strap...stupendous views. A beach down below, the pool outside my balcony, up the side of the valley overlooking the stunning coastline. The coastroad is amazing
Anyway, arrived in time for lunch, a noisy French and German accompanied affair, lots of choice, loads of it, all inclusive. A fantastic late afternoon dip, waved to the crowds on the deck of the liner as it slid past, a mooch on the beach...interestingly all locals...and back to the room. Getting ready for dinner now.
Will tell you about Dubrovnik itself tomorrow.
Dubrovnik.
Ive wanted to come here ever since, unfortunately though somebody decided in the meatime that it would be a jolly nice thing if they all went around shooting each other.
I looked again 5 yrs ago, figuring that the Balkans had quietened down. Kosovo had gone to sleep and maybe the place was alive and kicking again. Well it was trying to, but the prices were higher than pre way ludicrous, figure #5k for a week. Back to the drawing board then.
But now Im here. My somewhat of a cirtuitous route Ive found myself booking a 2 week, 3 centre stay along the coast in Dubrovnik, Hvar Island and just north of Split, Trogir, also known as Little Venice.
We are currently a 5mins or so taxi or no7 bus ride out of Dubrovnik harbour. Only one lot of English voices heard so far...Tonker if yer reading, dont worry Ive found your family! Typical isnt it, you travel 1000 miles from home and the only buggers you hear are Lancastrians!
The hotel isnt the classiest joint in the world, but it does have what I wanted as the prime requisite for my strap...stupendous views. A beach down below, the pool outside my balcony, up the side of the valley overlooking the stunning coastline. The coastroad is amazing

Anyway, arrived in time for lunch, a noisy French and German accompanied affair, lots of choice, loads of it, all inclusive. A fantastic late afternoon dip, waved to the crowds on the deck of the liner as it slid past, a mooch on the beach...interestingly all locals...and back to the room. Getting ready for dinner now.
Will tell you about Dubrovnik itself tomorrow.
Sorry folks, I lost internet connection until last night from the weekend. I was doing updates mostly about the hire car in the general section of the anything else thread!
Right.
Dubrovnik you have read. Not much else to add, except do the kayaking round the city walls and Lokrum island. Excellent value at 5 quid. The Old City is absolutely lovely. A must visit.
Hvar.
After 3 days we hired a car to go to our next location, 3 bights in Hvar town on the island of Hvar. Wow. Seriously just wow. The scenary is stupendous. Hvar town is gorgeous, we were in The Palace which is literally just on the harbour besides the piazza. Hvar piazza is the second largest in the Med after St Marks in Venice, and where I watched Englands opening match from. The architecture is all Venetian. It is the centre of the Adriatic yachting world and rapidly becomming a party town. The of the island is 2 main towns, Stari Grad and Yelsa, both similar old fashioned port/harbour towns, but quieter than Hvar. The interior scenary is amazing.
Trogir.
We are now in Trogie, or rather just through it onto the island. We are staying in a little apt literally at the very end of the island. Awesome location. Private pathway down to individual landing area/jetty onto the Adriatic. Superb for swimming and a cpl of coves/beaches just by. Pure locals only, no tourists here at all.
Trogir is heaving. Known as Little Venice, where they filmed Doc Who for the Vampires in Venice episode. Small, cramped, walled(ish) town on its own island. Great Marina. Very lively, lots of bars.
We went way up into the interior yesterday, 120miles or so to see the Plitvice lakes National Park. Wow. More waterfalls than you can shake a stick at. Lakes pure azure, often see thru, amazing clarity and stunning views. Came back over the Dinaric Mountain range. Again wow. Empty roads, forgotton, true Croatian hinterland and villages. Crags, scrubs, massive skies.
We are here till friday evening, then fly out of Split. Yesterday was Sarahs bday, today is mine. We did the Parks for her, today is a rest day
Friday we will look round Split and Salona, old Roman town of 60,000, now ruins just outside Split.
Thurs" Dont know, possibly Sibenik, just up the coast.
Amazing holiday, amazing place. Scenary is stunning, the people are ALL friendly and polite. The Adriatic sea beats the Med like a ginger relation and the sailing is immense.
Key facts:
1. Tourists are mainly French and German.
2. German tourists are the chavs here.
3. EVERYBODY speaks English. Its amazing.
4. Quite a few American and Australians, esp in Hvar. Htf did they find the place?
5. Hire a diesel certainly not a 1.2 Suzuki!
6. Learn to drive like a local quickly!
Oh and lastly and most importanly, you have by my reckoning between now and another 5 years to get here. By then it will be ruined. There is a LOT of building work going on, ever more into the amazing countryside and along the coasts and Croatia cares nothing about aesthetics of new hotels and apts. Its get em up quickly and fill with tourists. Easyjet and BA now do regular cheap flights. The chav British stag parties and families will find here very soon. It will be Greece or Spain very soon.
If you can, charter a boat and do a cruise round the islands for a fortnight.
Right.
Dubrovnik you have read. Not much else to add, except do the kayaking round the city walls and Lokrum island. Excellent value at 5 quid. The Old City is absolutely lovely. A must visit.
Hvar.
After 3 days we hired a car to go to our next location, 3 bights in Hvar town on the island of Hvar. Wow. Seriously just wow. The scenary is stupendous. Hvar town is gorgeous, we were in The Palace which is literally just on the harbour besides the piazza. Hvar piazza is the second largest in the Med after St Marks in Venice, and where I watched Englands opening match from. The architecture is all Venetian. It is the centre of the Adriatic yachting world and rapidly becomming a party town. The of the island is 2 main towns, Stari Grad and Yelsa, both similar old fashioned port/harbour towns, but quieter than Hvar. The interior scenary is amazing.
Trogir.
We are now in Trogie, or rather just through it onto the island. We are staying in a little apt literally at the very end of the island. Awesome location. Private pathway down to individual landing area/jetty onto the Adriatic. Superb for swimming and a cpl of coves/beaches just by. Pure locals only, no tourists here at all.
Trogir is heaving. Known as Little Venice, where they filmed Doc Who for the Vampires in Venice episode. Small, cramped, walled(ish) town on its own island. Great Marina. Very lively, lots of bars.
We went way up into the interior yesterday, 120miles or so to see the Plitvice lakes National Park. Wow. More waterfalls than you can shake a stick at. Lakes pure azure, often see thru, amazing clarity and stunning views. Came back over the Dinaric Mountain range. Again wow. Empty roads, forgotton, true Croatian hinterland and villages. Crags, scrubs, massive skies.
We are here till friday evening, then fly out of Split. Yesterday was Sarahs bday, today is mine. We did the Parks for her, today is a rest day
Friday we will look round Split and Salona, old Roman town of 60,000, now ruins just outside Split.Thurs" Dont know, possibly Sibenik, just up the coast.
Amazing holiday, amazing place. Scenary is stunning, the people are ALL friendly and polite. The Adriatic sea beats the Med like a ginger relation and the sailing is immense.
Key facts:
1. Tourists are mainly French and German.
2. German tourists are the chavs here.
3. EVERYBODY speaks English. Its amazing.
4. Quite a few American and Australians, esp in Hvar. Htf did they find the place?
5. Hire a diesel certainly not a 1.2 Suzuki!
6. Learn to drive like a local quickly!
Oh and lastly and most importanly, you have by my reckoning between now and another 5 years to get here. By then it will be ruined. There is a LOT of building work going on, ever more into the amazing countryside and along the coasts and Croatia cares nothing about aesthetics of new hotels and apts. Its get em up quickly and fill with tourists. Easyjet and BA now do regular cheap flights. The chav British stag parties and families will find here very soon. It will be Greece or Spain very soon.
If you can, charter a boat and do a cruise round the islands for a fortnight.
Taxis in Dubrovnik are a bit steep, but useful and worth it initially when you dont known your way or the bus routes. Our fare from Dubrovnik bus depot to our hotel was 80 kuna (10 quid). The equivalent on the bus was 8 Kuna, 1 quid. The bus is excellent and makes more sense once you know.
Food can be expensive, but it can also be cheap/very reasonable. A nice restaurant in Dub will set you back. In Hvar though we found very well priced food, esp as the plates were huge and the pizzas fantastic...Venetian empire, historical food etc. Last night in Trogir was frankly just bargain material. Sarah had a standard Hawain, I had a Calzone, she had a huge glass of house red, 1/4 ltr and I had a bitter lemon, 2 crepes with ice cream and the bill was 200kuna...#25. We reckon that was #35 in the UK even before you factor in the heaving beauty spot tourist tax.
Accom costs vary. Here in Trogi we are in a self cat apt. Its #190 for 4 nights. For the views alone, awesome value. In Hvar we stayed in the Palace, again we got a great deal, the room was a junier suite, massive ensuite, balcony terrace right over the harbour and the bill for those 3 nights, inc all our food was #450. Paid #150 up front as deposit. The Palace is part of the Suncani Hvar group, so we could eat at any of their places and do 10% on food and drink. We usually took breaky on the gorgeous sun terrace at the Palace and ate out at the Riva, basically their small boutique hotel next to where all the yachts moored. Perfect location.
Dub we stayed in a much more traditional standard activities hotel as it was just a base for us. #400 all inclusive for 3 nights. We wanted an apt in the Old Town originally but couldnt get what we wanted. Doing it again I would go for the Hilton Imperial.
So our major costs have been:
Easyjet - 260
1 week car hire - 200
dub hotel/all inc - 400
Hvar hotel + food - 450
Trogir apt - 190
So 1500 for 10nights. Ferry costs - 80. Petrol - 50. Extra dosh? 300 or so.
My original cost estimate was 1800, 1200 structural costs, 600 spends. We have come out about right for that.
We havent really scrimped anywhere, we have eaten well, driven our 1000kms, visited National Parks, taken kayaking trips, 3 different bases and a mix of different accom types.
Food can be expensive, but it can also be cheap/very reasonable. A nice restaurant in Dub will set you back. In Hvar though we found very well priced food, esp as the plates were huge and the pizzas fantastic...Venetian empire, historical food etc. Last night in Trogir was frankly just bargain material. Sarah had a standard Hawain, I had a Calzone, she had a huge glass of house red, 1/4 ltr and I had a bitter lemon, 2 crepes with ice cream and the bill was 200kuna...#25. We reckon that was #35 in the UK even before you factor in the heaving beauty spot tourist tax.
Accom costs vary. Here in Trogi we are in a self cat apt. Its #190 for 4 nights. For the views alone, awesome value. In Hvar we stayed in the Palace, again we got a great deal, the room was a junier suite, massive ensuite, balcony terrace right over the harbour and the bill for those 3 nights, inc all our food was #450. Paid #150 up front as deposit. The Palace is part of the Suncani Hvar group, so we could eat at any of their places and do 10% on food and drink. We usually took breaky on the gorgeous sun terrace at the Palace and ate out at the Riva, basically their small boutique hotel next to where all the yachts moored. Perfect location.
Dub we stayed in a much more traditional standard activities hotel as it was just a base for us. #400 all inclusive for 3 nights. We wanted an apt in the Old Town originally but couldnt get what we wanted. Doing it again I would go for the Hilton Imperial.
So our major costs have been:
Easyjet - 260
1 week car hire - 200
dub hotel/all inc - 400
Hvar hotel + food - 450
Trogir apt - 190
So 1500 for 10nights. Ferry costs - 80. Petrol - 50. Extra dosh? 300 or so.
My original cost estimate was 1800, 1200 structural costs, 600 spends. We have come out about right for that.
We havent really scrimped anywhere, we have eaten well, driven our 1000kms, visited National Parks, taken kayaking trips, 3 different bases and a mix of different accom types.
David - great writeup. Have been thinking about Croatia of late so useful to read your thoughts. After somewhere decently lively at night, but with enough to do/places to see and visit in the day rather than just lazing around. Of course, great food is a must also. Getting ever closer to the big 3 0 now so the usual haunts of greek islands and chav filled balaerics dont appeal; after something more rounded but with enough nightlife to keep things interesting when the mood takes
Croatia fit the bill would you say?
Croatia fit the bill would you say?
Well the holiday was also for our birthdays. Sarah was indeed the big 30, I was 34.
Hvar would suit you perfectly. Great nightlife, stunning island to tour round...DONT believe the instructions about the biking trails/trips though. "Moderate" and "average" in their lingo means their PR was done by Lance Armstrong. We couldnt believe the views we were marvelling from the top of the mountain range on Hvar, that had we had just driven up, 30+ degree heat and it was saying it was only a moderate climb for a bike! Kill you dead more like.
There are 1100 island, so you wont run out of them!
The national parks are amazing.
Food is great.
I fully recommend it.
Hvar would suit you perfectly. Great nightlife, stunning island to tour round...DONT believe the instructions about the biking trails/trips though. "Moderate" and "average" in their lingo means their PR was done by Lance Armstrong. We couldnt believe the views we were marvelling from the top of the mountain range on Hvar, that had we had just driven up, 30+ degree heat and it was saying it was only a moderate climb for a bike! Kill you dead more like.
There are 1100 island, so you wont run out of them!
The national parks are amazing.
Food is great.
I fully recommend it.
DJC said:
Well the holiday was also for our birthdays. Sarah was indeed the big 30, I was 34.
Hvar would suit you perfectly. Great nightlife, stunning island to tour round...DONT believe the instructions about the biking trails/trips though. "Moderate" and "average" in their lingo means their PR was done by Lance Armstrong. We couldnt believe the views we were marvelling from the top of the mountain range on Hvar, that had we had just driven up, 30+ degree heat and it was saying it was only a moderate climb for a bike! Kill you dead more like.
There are 1100 island, so you wont run out of them!
The national parks are amazing.
Food is great.
I fully recommend it.
Hvar would suit you perfectly. Great nightlife, stunning island to tour round...DONT believe the instructions about the biking trails/trips though. "Moderate" and "average" in their lingo means their PR was done by Lance Armstrong. We couldnt believe the views we were marvelling from the top of the mountain range on Hvar, that had we had just driven up, 30+ degree heat and it was saying it was only a moderate climb for a bike! Kill you dead more like.
There are 1100 island, so you wont run out of them!
The national parks are amazing.
Food is great.
I fully recommend it.
David, a quick post to say thank-you for your Croatia mini blog which led to us just returning from a fantastic week in a superb country.
Spent most of the week in Hvar, which was nothing short of epic. Spent a little time in Split and a night in Trogir, which is one of the more beautiful towns i have seen
All in all, Croatia is a wonderful country to visit and will definitely be going again
Spent most of the week in Hvar, which was nothing short of epic. Spent a little time in Split and a night in Trogir, which is one of the more beautiful towns i have seen
All in all, Croatia is a wonderful country to visit and will definitely be going again
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