Circuit board help - How to identify a toroidal inductor?

[Some Gump]

Hi forum,

My hob died on me, and needs a new board - one that isn't made anymore. Sounds easy, right? Just buy a new hob!

..Except that no-one seems to make them in silver anymore, at least in 72cm width - they're all black. Don't really want to re-do the kitchen, so had a poke inside the hob and find a bulgey capacitor on the board that causes e9 fault. Bingo! I think, I'll just change that cap!

Except like many people, I'm a ham fisted tt. I managed to snap the coil on the edge of the board getting the board out of the plastic mounting.



My google-fu tells me it's a torroidal inductor, but it doesn't have any markings on, and I don't have a circuit diagram. Is there any way to identify what this component is? I have a multimeter if it helps..



Spiritual mars bar to any samaritan that can help!
Gump

Edited by Some Gump on Monday 3rd January 20:41

[nyt]

I'd be tempted to unwind one loop and solder that into the board. That won't alter the inductance too much.

Failing that, something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Capacitance-Inductance-Re... will let you measure the inductance of that component so that you can order a replacement from somewhere like RS Components

The meter above can measure inductance - your multimeter probably can't.

Edited by nyt on Monday 3rd January 20:57

[anonymous-user]

That copper wire is varnish coated so if you do as nyt says then scrape the end of the wire before soldering.

Personally I'd try and tack a bit of solder between the broken ends to get a connection again. Check it's not touching anything then apply say glue from a hot glue gun or epoxy etc to hold it in place.

Ok so both of the above are technically bodges but I was brought up to repair stuff. Otherwise get an inductance meter as nyt said.

[Some Gump]

Thanks Nyt!

Now it sounds like you know what you're on about (and I'm just having a stab at this, I have no more electronics engineering background than making a radio from a kit when I was 14!!)..
Desoldering - should I buy wicks or one of those poppy gun jobs? I'll need to remove all 6 legs simultaneously to do your "re-wind it" trick...

[gazza285]

Some Gump said:

Thanks Nyt!

Now it sounds like you know what you're on about (and I'm just having a stab at this, I have no more electronics engineering background than making a radio from a kit when I was 14!!)..
Desoldering - should I buy wicks or one of those poppy gun jobs? I'll need to remove all 6 legs simultaneously to do your "re-wind it" trick...

Poppy gun job every time, solder wick is rubbish. It's called a solder sucker by the way.

[nyt]

MikeStrouds plan isn't a bad place to start. I'd scrape off the varnish and use a piece of wire to join the two ends. Joining with solder would be a bit of a challenge.

Can you not just finesse the broken wire out from around the ferrite without removing the whole component?

Edited by nyt on Monday 3rd January 22:36

[shtu]

nyt said:

I'd be tempted to unwind one loop and solder that into the board. That won't alter the inductance too much.

That's what I'd be tempted to do as well. Trying to patch-in with solder is likely to be more difficult.

nyt said:

finesse the broken wire out from around the ferrite without removing the whole component

And that. But the hamfist level required is low.

Edited by shtu on Monday 3rd January 22:25

[elanfan]

Can I suggest you Google your local domestic appliance repair centre and have it repaired professionally perhaps even with some guarantee on the work? I have a 26 year old white double oven that still looks like new after cleaning. The heater element was dodgy and the fan bearings were shot. My local company Budd electrical came out replaced both in my home for £80 plus parts. Brilliant service. It’s now like new again.

You must have the equivalent near you.

Edited by elanfan on Tuesday 4th January 05:23