Discussion
Is anyone aware of a company in the UK that will anodize ally bits for you. Google was next to useless and seemed to list only large companies that produce mass produced bits.
If you are is it expensive to get done - size wise it would be cycle components - crank arms / brakes etc.
Ta.
If you are is it expensive to get done - size wise it would be cycle components - crank arms / brakes etc.
Ta.
Used to use several different companies but these guys were probably the best quality:
http://www.lca.uk.com/
Or you could work your way through this lot:
http://www.uk-finishing.org.uk/sus_list.htm
if you fancy finding someone more local.
What colour you after?
http://www.lca.uk.com/
Or you could work your way through this lot:
http://www.uk-finishing.org.uk/sus_list.htm
if you fancy finding someone more local.
What colour you after?
I'd recommend Elite Surface Finishing nr Oxford.
Not cheap, but the best we've found (we do LOTS).
Do you know what material you have? (which alloy).
HE30 (or modern variant) any colour you want
HE15 (or modern variant) darker colours better as the material comes out gunmetal grey so you can only go darker.
Also go for Hard anodise (proper 0degC sulphuric acid Type III, not pikey tyep 2.5 thick 'normal-pseudo hard' that lots of people do..... and get it sealed properly so it doesn't pick up grease from your fingers.)
Not cheap, but the best we've found (we do LOTS).
Do you know what material you have? (which alloy).
HE30 (or modern variant) any colour you want
HE15 (or modern variant) darker colours better as the material comes out gunmetal grey so you can only go darker.
Also go for Hard anodise (proper 0degC sulphuric acid Type III, not pikey tyep 2.5 thick 'normal-pseudo hard' that lots of people do..... and get it sealed properly so it doesn't pick up grease from your fingers.)
Thanks chaps 
Vidal is the process you offer hard anodised? I want to do a set off road bike brakes in gold (if I can get them to bits) and possibly a set of crank arms - because the crank arms will see a lot of abrasion they will need to be as tough as possible. Oh and colour - Gold - I'm creating a modern interpretation of the old Raleigh Record sprint. My dream bike as a kid. When I work out what specifically I need I'll call you.
Vidal is the process you offer hard anodised? I want to do a set off road bike brakes in gold (if I can get them to bits) and possibly a set of crank arms - because the crank arms will see a lot of abrasion they will need to be as tough as possible. Oh and colour - Gold - I'm creating a modern interpretation of the old Raleigh Record sprint. My dream bike as a kid. When I work out what specifically I need I'll call you.
I'd be very interested in some of this however can someone explain what is available etc. on the different finishes and so on?
Basically, I want to get all the exposed framework and ARB's. suspension arms anodised to make the car look better for sponsors but don't know how to go about it.
Thanks
Basically, I want to get all the exposed framework and ARB's. suspension arms anodised to make the car look better for sponsors but don't know how to go about it.
Thanks
rhinochopig said:
Thanks chaps
Vidal is the process you offer hard anodised? I want to do a set off road bike brakes in gold (if I can get them to bits) and possibly a set of crank arms - because the crank arms will see a lot of abrasion they will need to be as tough as possible. Oh and colour - Gold - I'm creating a modern interpretation of the old Raleigh Record sprint. My dream bike as a kid. When I work out what specifically I need I'll call you.
The cranks will eventually wear through from your shoe rubbing no matter how hard the anodizing is.Vidal is the process you offer hard anodised? I want to do a set off road bike brakes in gold (if I can get them to bits) and possibly a set of crank arms - because the crank arms will see a lot of abrasion they will need to be as tough as possible. Oh and colour - Gold - I'm creating a modern interpretation of the old Raleigh Record sprint. My dream bike as a kid. When I work out what specifically I need I'll call you.
A friend of mine wanted some bike bits anodized in gold, I ended up plating them for him in alochrom 1200. Not as hardy a finish but then it cost nothing and took 3 minutes.
Hard to find now due to RoHS hysteria; it contains hexavalent chromium though contrary to popular belief if force dried (air line) it is compliant.
rhinochopig said:
Thanks chaps
Vidal is the process you offer hard anodised? I want to do a set off road bike brakes in gold (if I can get them to bits) and possibly a set of crank arms - because the crank arms will see a lot of abrasion they will need to be as tough as possible. Oh and colour - Gold - I'm creating a modern interpretation of the old Raleigh Record sprint. My dream bike as a kid. When I work out what specifically I need I'll call you.
It's not hard annodising, no- I don't do the annodising, so i'm no expert in the field.Vidal is the process you offer hard anodised? I want to do a set off road bike brakes in gold (if I can get them to bits) and possibly a set of crank arms - because the crank arms will see a lot of abrasion they will need to be as tough as possible. Oh and colour - Gold - I'm creating a modern interpretation of the old Raleigh Record sprint. My dream bike as a kid. When I work out what specifically I need I'll call you.
Yes it probably will come off eventually on the crank arms as you will constantly be rubbing them, unless your feet are clipped in?
Brake parts would be OK, as not much abrasion happens there.
But I've been told by the guys it's a pretty durable finish- they've done bits like Motorcycle pegs before.
They gave me a phone number of a local company that does (South West Metal Finishers Ltd)- but I've checked for you already- Company Policy, they don't do Car or Bike parts (I tried arguing it's for a bicycle, not motorbike- but the woman on the desk was not on 'recieve'!)
Vidal Baboon said:
rhinochopig said:
Thanks chaps
Vidal is the process you offer hard anodised? I want to do a set off road bike brakes in gold (if I can get them to bits) and possibly a set of crank arms - because the crank arms will see a lot of abrasion they will need to be as tough as possible. Oh and colour - Gold - I'm creating a modern interpretation of the old Raleigh Record sprint. My dream bike as a kid. When I work out what specifically I need I'll call you.
It's not hard annodising, no- I don't do the annodising, so i'm no expert in the field.Vidal is the process you offer hard anodised? I want to do a set off road bike brakes in gold (if I can get them to bits) and possibly a set of crank arms - because the crank arms will see a lot of abrasion they will need to be as tough as possible. Oh and colour - Gold - I'm creating a modern interpretation of the old Raleigh Record sprint. My dream bike as a kid. When I work out what specifically I need I'll call you.
Yes it probably will come off eventually on the crank arms as you will constantly be rubbing them, unless your feet are clipped in?
Brake parts would be OK, as not much abrasion happens there.
But I've been told by the guys it's a pretty durable finish- they've done bits like Motorcycle pegs before.
They gave me a phone number of a local company that does (South West Metal Finishers Ltd)- but I've checked for you already- Company Policy, they don't do Car or Bike parts (I tried arguing it's for a bicycle, not motorbike- but the woman on the desk was not on 'recieve'!)
Think I'll give Elite a call.
Robbie L - what material is the stuff you want coating? If it's steel, then you would be better getting it done by the same company that Chris Allansen (At Z-Cars) uses for all his chassis. They're not the cheapest of places, but they are superb in quality. The coatings they use come out looking like they been anodized.
Unfortunately I don't know who he uses, but call him and ask - he's a friendly helpful chap.
Robbie L - what material is the stuff you want coating? If it's steel, then you would be better getting it done by the same company that Chris Allansen (At Z-Cars) uses for all his chassis. They're not the cheapest of places, but they are superb in quality. The coatings they use come out looking like they been anodized.
Unfortunately I don't know who he uses, but call him and ask - he's a friendly helpful chap.
http://www.applegate.co.uk/company/00/29/328.htm
these are the Guys. Alan runs the place and is who I'd talk to (I'm stuart from 360Precision).
There will be a minimum charge on the anodise, you'd have to ask him what it would be for you. As I say, you'll not get a light colour (like gold) if you have He15, as the ally just won't anodise 'light' enough - but Alan will be able to tell what you have by how it behaves during the process.
If you are worried about the cranks wearing (tbh, with a proper hard anodise I'd be very surprised if anything on your shoe could damage it (maybe if you cracked a stone between your foot?), then just get some of the armourfend type stuff and stick it over the region that you are worried about - then you'll be right as rain.
The difference between a proper hard anodise and a normal anodise is hard to overstate. The anodise on our stuff will look fine with a little rub after scratching screwdrivers over the surface
these are the Guys. Alan runs the place and is who I'd talk to (I'm stuart from 360Precision).
There will be a minimum charge on the anodise, you'd have to ask him what it would be for you. As I say, you'll not get a light colour (like gold) if you have He15, as the ally just won't anodise 'light' enough - but Alan will be able to tell what you have by how it behaves during the process.
If you are worried about the cranks wearing (tbh, with a proper hard anodise I'd be very surprised if anything on your shoe could damage it (maybe if you cracked a stone between your foot?), then just get some of the armourfend type stuff and stick it over the region that you are worried about - then you'll be right as rain.
The difference between a proper hard anodise and a normal anodise is hard to overstate. The anodise on our stuff will look fine with a little rub after scratching screwdrivers over the surface
Edited by stuthemong on Friday 12th June 14:46
stuthemong said:
http://www.applegate.co.uk/company/00/29/328.htm
these are the Guys. Alan runs the place and is who I'd talk to (I'm stuart from 360Precision).
There will be a minimum charge on the anodise, you'd have to ask him what it would be for you. As I say, you'll not get a light colour (like gold) if you have He15, as the ally just won't anodise 'light' enough - but Alan will be able to tell what you have by how it behaves during the process.
If you are worried about the cranks wearing (tbh, with a proper hard anodise I'd be very surprised if anything on your shoe could damage it (maybe if you cracked a stone between your foot?), then just get some of the armourfend type stuff and stick it over the region that you are worried about - then you'll be right as rain.
The difference between a proper hard anodise and a normal anodise is hard to overstate. The anodise on our stuff will look fine with a little rub after scratching screwdrivers over the surface
Any idea on how much it would cost for a pair of crank arms?these are the Guys. Alan runs the place and is who I'd talk to (I'm stuart from 360Precision).
There will be a minimum charge on the anodise, you'd have to ask him what it would be for you. As I say, you'll not get a light colour (like gold) if you have He15, as the ally just won't anodise 'light' enough - but Alan will be able to tell what you have by how it behaves during the process.
If you are worried about the cranks wearing (tbh, with a proper hard anodise I'd be very surprised if anything on your shoe could damage it (maybe if you cracked a stone between your foot?), then just get some of the armourfend type stuff and stick it over the region that you are worried about - then you'll be right as rain.
The difference between a proper hard anodise and a normal anodise is hard to overstate. The anodise on our stuff will look fine with a little rub after scratching screwdrivers over the surface
Edited by stuthemong on Friday 12th June 14:46
Minimum charge.
Acutal cost: something like £5-10
Real cost: The min charge. Around the £80+VAT mark.
Ideally you'd have 10 sets to anodise to get unit cost down.
There are some people, C-Tec or something in Milton Keyenes who may have a lower min charge. I'd just call elite and beg for him to give you his best min charge price though, as they are awesome. He may be able to lower it a bit for a small order, but you have to appreciate that it's just not worth their time invoicing& jigging& shipping for £10 - same with all anodisers.
Acutal cost: something like £5-10
Real cost: The min charge. Around the £80+VAT mark.
Ideally you'd have 10 sets to anodise to get unit cost down.
There are some people, C-Tec or something in Milton Keyenes who may have a lower min charge. I'd just call elite and beg for him to give you his best min charge price though, as they are awesome. He may be able to lower it a bit for a small order, but you have to appreciate that it's just not worth their time invoicing& jigging& shipping for £10 - same with all anodisers.
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