Basic tools for spannering
Discussion
Start out with a decent socket set. I would check out the Halfords professional range, nice quality and the lifetime warranty means that if anything breaks take it to your nearest halfords and they should swap it for a new one no questions asked. Something like this would do almost everything you need:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socke...
You can get smaller or cheaper sets, but soon you will be picking up more sockets for weird jobs, or need a size you didn't have, and then you have a mess of random sockets do deal with. As well as this, grab a 600mm breaker bar for persuading difficult nuts and a torque wrench or two for making sure everything is to spec when you reassemble. Invest in the best jack you can afford, and four quality axle stands.
I have done a bunch of jobs on my car recently, including a lot of gaskets, replacing almost all the supension, and replacing some random engine parts. As well as the sockets and other things you will get in that kit, I used:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socke...
You can get smaller or cheaper sets, but soon you will be picking up more sockets for weird jobs, or need a size you didn't have, and then you have a mess of random sockets do deal with. As well as this, grab a 600mm breaker bar for persuading difficult nuts and a torque wrench or two for making sure everything is to spec when you reassemble. Invest in the best jack you can afford, and four quality axle stands.
I have done a bunch of jobs on my car recently, including a lot of gaskets, replacing almost all the supension, and replacing some random engine parts. As well as the sockets and other things you will get in that kit, I used:
- a big hammer
- a "deadblow" rubber hammer
- a "pickle fork" type bearing separator
- a huge adjustable wrench, 75mm opening I think
- a good set of screwdrivers
- brake cleaner, pb blaster, wd 40, silicon, and electrical contact cleaner sprays
- a tub of copperslip, and a tub of grease
- lots of gloves, lots of paper towels
To a certain extent it depends on your car.
For example Torx? E-Sockets (inverse torx)? Spline?
In general one of the big 1/2 drive Halfords sets, a 1/4" drive set (for when the big stuff is too big to fit), some ring spanners in sizes from 8mm through to 19mm
As above 2 hammers - 1 x 8oz and 1 x 12oz, rubber hammer, adjustable spanners (6", 8" and 12" will cover most things), ball joint separator (pickle fork or wind down one - I prefer the wind down type), set of torx sockets, allen keys, torx keys.
Add in a multimeter for electrical work and a make up a test lamp (a pair of leads with a bulb attached - useful for finding bad connection type issues).
Axle stands are a must as are wheel chocks and a trolley jack.
If you want to get more serious add in a torque wrench or two as well as an angle gauge (used for torquing some things).
This would be a good basic starter kit:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socke...
For example Torx? E-Sockets (inverse torx)? Spline?
In general one of the big 1/2 drive Halfords sets, a 1/4" drive set (for when the big stuff is too big to fit), some ring spanners in sizes from 8mm through to 19mm
As above 2 hammers - 1 x 8oz and 1 x 12oz, rubber hammer, adjustable spanners (6", 8" and 12" will cover most things), ball joint separator (pickle fork or wind down one - I prefer the wind down type), set of torx sockets, allen keys, torx keys.
Add in a multimeter for electrical work and a make up a test lamp (a pair of leads with a bulb attached - useful for finding bad connection type issues).
Axle stands are a must as are wheel chocks and a trolley jack.
If you want to get more serious add in a torque wrench or two as well as an angle gauge (used for torquing some things).
This would be a good basic starter kit:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socke...
whatever you buy make sure its not filled with old imperial sizes you will never use on a modern car, you only need metric unless you are working on ye olde /american cars
make sure sockets are 6 sided ones to lessen the chances of rounding off fixings
invest in some irwin bolt grippers
you could start off with a 3/8 drive set 8-19mm that will cover alot of jobs , then once youre into and have some more funds expand to having 1/2 and 1/4 drive too
make sure sockets are 6 sided ones to lessen the chances of rounding off fixings
invest in some irwin bolt grippers
you could start off with a 3/8 drive set 8-19mm that will cover alot of jobs , then once youre into and have some more funds expand to having 1/2 and 1/4 drive too
anonymous said:
[redacted]
I don't use 1/4" much but I've a few 1/4" sockets with a screwdriver set. These are good enough for bits of trim etc so don't need to double up
I bought one of these 7 years ago, the case has taken some abuse, and my hammer went rusty after I let it sit in water, but it's been brilliant. It's not the "professional" range, which I understand is the badger's tadger, but it's been very good and had a hard life. The fact it's in one carry case makes it ideal for me as my projects (bike, car, boat) have all been in different places, so I just grab the "main/travelling" kit and any extras I think I might need, chuck them in the boot and go. I lost the big adjustable spanner so I've replaced it with mole grips as they're more useful and it doesn't come with one as standard. I've also added a decent 6" steel ruler.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/tool-...
Can't recommend it enough. I can imagine the professional range being all you'd ever need for a DIYer.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/tool-...
Can't recommend it enough. I can imagine the professional range being all you'd ever need for a DIYer.
ethomas said:
Start out with a decent socket set. I would check out the Halfords professional range, nice quality and the lifetime warranty means that if anything breaks take it to your nearest halfords and they should swap it for a new one no questions asked. Something like this would do almost everything you need:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socke...
You can get smaller or cheaper sets, but soon you will be picking up more sockets for weird jobs, or need a size you didn't have, and then you have a mess of random sockets do deal with. As well as this, grab a 600mm breaker bar for persuading difficult nuts and a torque wrench or two for making sure everything is to spec when you reassemble. Invest in the best jack you can afford, and four quality axle stands.
I have done a bunch of jobs on my car recently, including a lot of gaskets, replacing almost all the supension, and replacing some random engine parts. As well as the sockets and other things you will get in that kit, I used:
It's a Lotus Elise. I don't plan on doing a huge number of jobs but quite like playing and the Elise seems simple enough to play with. That Halfords kit looks like just the job - plus I get an extra 10% off http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socke...
You can get smaller or cheaper sets, but soon you will be picking up more sockets for weird jobs, or need a size you didn't have, and then you have a mess of random sockets do deal with. As well as this, grab a 600mm breaker bar for persuading difficult nuts and a torque wrench or two for making sure everything is to spec when you reassemble. Invest in the best jack you can afford, and four quality axle stands.
I have done a bunch of jobs on my car recently, including a lot of gaskets, replacing almost all the supension, and replacing some random engine parts. As well as the sockets and other things you will get in that kit, I used:
- a big hammer
- a "deadblow" rubber hammer
- a "pickle fork" type bearing separator
- a huge adjustable wrench, 75mm opening I think
- a good set of screwdrivers
- brake cleaner, pb blaster, wd 40, silicon, and electrical contact cleaner sprays
- a tub of copperslip, and a tub of grease
- lots of gloves, lots of paper towels
What's the difference between all the kits (150 vs 170 vs 200) - is it just more odd sizes that I'm unlikely to need?AyBee said:
It's a Lotus Elise. I don't plan on doing a huge number of jobs but quite like playing and the Elise seems simple enough to play with. That Halfords kit looks like just the job - plus I get an extra 10% off What's the difference between all the kits (150 vs 170 vs 200) - is it just more odd sizes that I'm unlikely to need?
The 150 comes with ratchet spanners (which I find I rarely use) but a poor selection of deep sockets (which I find very useful), the 170 comes with no ratchet spanners (as doesn't the 200) but a better selection of deep sockets. The 200 has an excellent selection of deep sockets. What's the difference between all the kits (150 vs 170 vs 200) - is it just more odd sizes that I'm unlikely to need?If money is tight then I'd go with the 170, otherwise I'd get the 200.
The 200 piece Halfords kit will be a good starting point (got one myself). The only problem is you'll find there's a fair few imperial sockets in there which probably won't be much good for your car.
An alternative would be to go for a good socket set that is purely metric (I've got a Sealey one in a metal case which has taken some SERIOUS use and abuse over the years and is still going strong. Add a decent set of screwdrivers, some spanners (fixed, ratchet and flexi head ratchet jobs are all useful), a decent pair of mole grips and a BFH (hammer) and you should be good to go.
In your shoes I'd go for a low entry trolley jack as you might find a regular height model won't fit under your car (machine mart do a good selection) and a good pair of axle stands.
Don't go mad buying loads of stuff you will never use - IMO the secret of a good toolkit is to build it up as you go along…I've been doing just that for the last 20 years.
Oh, and learn lots and lots of new swear words… you'll soon see why when a simple "it'll only take 5 minutes and then I'll head down the local for a few pints" job expands to fill your entire weekend.
An alternative would be to go for a good socket set that is purely metric (I've got a Sealey one in a metal case which has taken some SERIOUS use and abuse over the years and is still going strong. Add a decent set of screwdrivers, some spanners (fixed, ratchet and flexi head ratchet jobs are all useful), a decent pair of mole grips and a BFH (hammer) and you should be good to go.
In your shoes I'd go for a low entry trolley jack as you might find a regular height model won't fit under your car (machine mart do a good selection) and a good pair of axle stands.
Don't go mad buying loads of stuff you will never use - IMO the secret of a good toolkit is to build it up as you go along…I've been doing just that for the last 20 years.
Oh, and learn lots and lots of new swear words… you'll soon see why when a simple "it'll only take 5 minutes and then I'll head down the local for a few pints" job expands to fill your entire weekend.
Faust66 said:
The 200 piece Halfords kit will be a good starting point (got one myself). The only problem is you'll find there's a fair few imperial sockets in there which probably won't be much good for your car.
An alternative would be to go for a good socket set that is purely metric (I've got a Sealey one in a metal case which has taken some SERIOUS use and abuse over the years and is still going strong. Add a decent set of screwdrivers, some spanners (fixed, ratchet and flexi head ratchet jobs are all useful), a decent pair of mole grips and a BFH (hammer) and you should be good to go.
In your shoes I'd go for a low entry trolley jack as you might find a regular height model won't fit under your car (machine mart do a good selection) and a good pair of axle stands.
Don't go mad buying loads of stuff you will never use - IMO the secret of a good toolkit is to build it up as you go along…I've been doing just that for the last 20 years.
Oh, and learn lots and lots of new swear words… you'll soon see why when a simple "it'll only take 5 minutes and then I'll head down the local for a few pints" job expands to fill your entire weekend.
An alternative would be to go for a good socket set that is purely metric (I've got a Sealey one in a metal case which has taken some SERIOUS use and abuse over the years and is still going strong. Add a decent set of screwdrivers, some spanners (fixed, ratchet and flexi head ratchet jobs are all useful), a decent pair of mole grips and a BFH (hammer) and you should be good to go.
In your shoes I'd go for a low entry trolley jack as you might find a regular height model won't fit under your car (machine mart do a good selection) and a good pair of axle stands.
Don't go mad buying loads of stuff you will never use - IMO the secret of a good toolkit is to build it up as you go along…I've been doing just that for the last 20 years.
Oh, and learn lots and lots of new swear words… you'll soon see why when a simple "it'll only take 5 minutes and then I'll head down the local for a few pints" job expands to fill your entire weekend.
Think I'll take a drive to the local Halfords and see if they'll show me the set, then I can see what's metric and what's imperial in it and make a decision from there. I was only planning on getting the tools right now, but thanks for the tips on other things I'll need in due course. Low entry jack is a must since it's also slightly lower than standard 
First job is fitting a replacement throttle body so I'll start off easy 
AyBee said:
Think I'll take a drive to the local Halfords and see if they'll show me the set, then I can see what's metric and what's imperial in it and make a decision from there. I was only planning on getting the tools right now, but thanks for the tips on other things I'll need in due course. Low entry jack is a must since it's also slightly lower than standard First job is fitting a replacement throttle body so I'll start off easy Can be a good thing if you're planning on working on a variety of cars though.
I started with a trolley Jack and a pair of axle stands
On an Elise you want a low entry high lift
Then a fairly standard set of spammers open and ring plus standard socket set
I then bought what I needed as I went along especially when you come across 14,16,18mm nuts, splined nuts and bolts
Allen key etc.
There is no standard entry kit and even to this day when I have at least 2 complete huge sets of tools in 2 locations I still buy ratchet ring spanners, short spanners torx and anything I need to do a job
Trust me you will use it again
On an Elise you want a low entry high lift
Then a fairly standard set of spammers open and ring plus standard socket set
I then bought what I needed as I went along especially when you come across 14,16,18mm nuts, splined nuts and bolts
Allen key etc.
There is no standard entry kit and even to this day when I have at least 2 complete huge sets of tools in 2 locations I still buy ratchet ring spanners, short spanners torx and anything I need to do a job
Trust me you will use it again
PaulKemp said:
I started with a trolley Jack and a pair of axle stands
On an Elise you want a low entry high lift
Then a fairly standard set of spammers open and ring plus standard socket set
I then bought what I needed as I went along especially when you come across 14,16,18mm nuts, splined nuts and bolts
Allen key etc.
There is no standard entry kit and even to this day when I have at least 2 complete huge sets of tools in 2 locations I still buy ratchet ring spanners, short spanners torx and anything I need to do a job
Trust me you will use it again
To be fare this is how most people do it, certainly I did. If I was starting, hadn't any tools and could afford it I'd buy a Halfords kit.On an Elise you want a low entry high lift
Then a fairly standard set of spammers open and ring plus standard socket set
I then bought what I needed as I went along especially when you come across 14,16,18mm nuts, splined nuts and bolts
Allen key etc.
There is no standard entry kit and even to this day when I have at least 2 complete huge sets of tools in 2 locations I still buy ratchet ring spanners, short spanners torx and anything I need to do a job
Trust me you will use it again
It's frustrating being 1/2 way through a job. Not having the right tool and either breaking off to get one, (usually more expensive because you want it in a rush) or making do, bodging or damaging something (hand or car)
Keep an eye on Amazon and Ebay, sometimes bargains pop up (9 Sealy 1/2" sockets for a tenner anyone)
Places like Cromwell tools are helpful, they've got me out of trouble more than once. Even splitting a socket set because a particular item was out of stock. You won't get that @ Halfords or Machine Mart.
Some useful info for the would be mechanic
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in bumpers just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VICE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouc...."
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.
TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.
BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
INSPECTION LAMP: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty suspension bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, and rounds them off.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in bumpers just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VICE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouc...."
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.
TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.
BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
INSPECTION LAMP: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty suspension bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, and rounds them off.
Edited by sparkythecat on Thursday 29th October 22:16
I diy my elise. I would suggest the following
Halfords 200pc set. Wait until it is half price. It is a great kit in a good case. I use it for my track day kit but normally end up using it for my main tasks at home anyway.
Dremel/rotary cutting tool. Corded. You will need lots of the kevlar discs for cutting the heads off seized bolts in your clams.
Cheap electric screwdriver. Good for speeding up undertray removal and refitting.
Cheap obd reader. The sort <£10 on ebay. If you are messing with the throttle body there is a fair chance of upsetting the ecu
Blowtorch
Halfords 200pc set. Wait until it is half price. It is a great kit in a good case. I use it for my track day kit but normally end up using it for my main tasks at home anyway.
Dremel/rotary cutting tool. Corded. You will need lots of the kevlar discs for cutting the heads off seized bolts in your clams.
Cheap electric screwdriver. Good for speeding up undertray removal and refitting.
Cheap obd reader. The sort <£10 on ebay. If you are messing with the throttle body there is a fair chance of upsetting the ecu
Blowtorch
A few hex sockets are useful for the Elise (to get the seats out, front caliper bolts, undertray perhaps). An Eezibleed will make changing the brake fluid easier. And some gloves make a big difference to your hands. Oh and get used to taking the undertray off just to support the back of the car...
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