Torque Wrenches, talk to me...?
Discussion
I have two Teng ones, one 3/8" and one 1/2". Both are solid bits of kit, would recommend without hesitation. I got the 3/8" one first and originally bought a Silverline 1/2" one which disintegrated messily after a few uses, so ditched and replaced it with the bigger Teng.
ETA
ETA
carinaman said:
When you've finished with it wind it back to zero before putting it away.
^This.Halfrauds Pro gear is pretty good. Guaranteed and they will still be around if it fails after a few years. Photocopy and keep the receipt.
If you are serious you will want 2, one a smaller 3/8 drive one that only covers low torques to greater accuracy. I only have 1, a half inch drive job that covers 20ft.lb to 150 ft.lb. I forget the brand but it was inexpensive and it's great. The better ones back off the torque once they have clicked, but if you are working carefully then this is at best a nice-to-have. Amateur mechanics can afford to take their time and use their arm to back off after the click.
Avoid the ones that just have a spring and a scale, unless you are prepared to work VERY slowly and cerefully.
YOu don't need to go beyond 150 lb.ft unless you are a pro and working on trucks. On the (thankfully rare) occasions when I've had to do up a hub nut to 300ft.lb or similar I've weighed myself, calculated the amount of breaker bar required to get there and stepped on the bar at the right point. No bouncing.
If you are serious you will want 2, one a smaller 3/8 drive one that only covers low torques to greater accuracy. I only have 1, a half inch drive job that covers 20ft.lb to 150 ft.lb. I forget the brand but it was inexpensive and it's great. The better ones back off the torque once they have clicked, but if you are working carefully then this is at best a nice-to-have. Amateur mechanics can afford to take their time and use their arm to back off after the click.
Avoid the ones that just have a spring and a scale, unless you are prepared to work VERY slowly and cerefully.
YOu don't need to go beyond 150 lb.ft unless you are a pro and working on trucks. On the (thankfully rare) occasions when I've had to do up a hub nut to 300ft.lb or similar I've weighed myself, calculated the amount of breaker bar required to get there and stepped on the bar at the right point. No bouncing.
I have 2 of the Halford ones and they are a very nice piece of it.
There are prettier torque wrenches and there are shinier torque wrenches but most importantly, as said above, they are accurate.
I've had mine quite a few years now and I bought them on the back of a bench test in one of the Car Mechanic magazines where they came out on top.
There are prettier torque wrenches and there are shinier torque wrenches but most importantly, as said above, they are accurate.
I've had mine quite a few years now and I bought them on the back of a bench test in one of the Car Mechanic magazines where they came out on top.
You can get a Silverline one for less than £20 which gets good reviews.
The real problem is that you really need two - the ones above mentioned will generally have a minimum of 25nm.
For automotive use, I would think that below 25nm you can generally just use feel without any issue.
However, if your working on a motorcycle or bicycle, then you will want to tighten something to a torque less than 25nm. And thats a problem as those kind of torque wrenches (typically 3/8") are actually quite expensive (£50+).
The real problem is that you really need two - the ones above mentioned will generally have a minimum of 25nm.
For automotive use, I would think that below 25nm you can generally just use feel without any issue.
However, if your working on a motorcycle or bicycle, then you will want to tighten something to a torque less than 25nm. And thats a problem as those kind of torque wrenches (typically 3/8") are actually quite expensive (£50+).
For low torques, a "beam" type torque wrench is a very cheap and reliable alternative.
Not so easy to find, but here's one at only £15: http://www.agriemach.com/p641-beam-type-torque-wre...
Here's how it works:

John
Not so easy to find, but here's one at only £15: http://www.agriemach.com/p641-beam-type-torque-wre...
Here's how it works:
John
Hi
A good quality used torque wrench off Fleabay may be worth a look.
Sykes Pickavant and I think Norbar which are the same under a different brand are pretty good.
I still use old britool torque wrenches that were old 30 years ago when I started and they still get a calibration pass every year.
Mick
A good quality used torque wrench off Fleabay may be worth a look.
Sykes Pickavant and I think Norbar which are the same under a different brand are pretty good.
I still use old britool torque wrenches that were old 30 years ago when I started and they still get a calibration pass every year.
Mick
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