What are the chances of welding this ?
Discussion
Welding the holes in CV joint caps like this ? This is not the actual part, but for my application, the covers are not available for outer CV joints as they would be machine crimped on. I contacted various manufacturers and re-manufacturers to supply these , but with no luck. The only thing you can get is one that comes with bolt holes.
Thanks

Thanks
Edited by Mr_B on Saturday 27th February 16:55
It's for a nut and bolt rebuild on what will hopefully be a near concours car, so I want it to look absolutely original, if possible.
The CV joints are perfect, but no one sells the correct metal covers, the closest being of the design in the picture , but with a center hole.
The covers are 94mm and very thin, maybe 1mm or less. Some place in China probably stamps out thousands of the correct parts, but no joy in finding who.
Here is the correct part that you can't buy for an outer CV . This one I have removed and you can see the crimp edge has been pulled up and started to split away. The other one had a dent on the lip where the rubber boot mounts and wasn't sealing correctly and is junk.
These are available to buy easily, but for the hole problem. I wanted them filled and would then chuck them in with a batch of stuff going for zinc plating. http://race.parts/Catalogue/Drivetrain/CV-Joints/B...
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The CV joints are perfect, but no one sells the correct metal covers, the closest being of the design in the picture , but with a center hole.
The covers are 94mm and very thin, maybe 1mm or less. Some place in China probably stamps out thousands of the correct parts, but no joy in finding who.
Here is the correct part that you can't buy for an outer CV . This one I have removed and you can see the crimp edge has been pulled up and started to split away. The other one had a dent on the lip where the rubber boot mounts and wasn't sealing correctly and is junk.
These are available to buy easily, but for the hole problem. I wanted them filled and would then chuck them in with a batch of stuff going for zinc plating. http://race.parts/Catalogue/Drivetrain/CV-Joints/B...
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[/URL]Edited by Mr_B on Saturday 27th February 17:56
I'd be a little concerned about the risk of distortion if you were to try welding the holes due to how thin they are.
In the absence of anything else - I assume you've tried some of the smaller fabricator/engineering companies & it may well be worth you getting a couple of the holey ones & seeing what they say - the shim method may well be the best way to go.
Is the thickness critical for fit or could you get some machined from solid to appear exernally identical to the originals - again try a fabrication company/engineering works.
In the absence of anything else - I assume you've tried some of the smaller fabricator/engineering companies & it may well be worth you getting a couple of the holey ones & seeing what they say - the shim method may well be the best way to go.
Is the thickness critical for fit or could you get some machined from solid to appear exernally identical to the originals - again try a fabrication company/engineering works.
Edited by paintman on Saturday 27th February 19:57
Mroad said:
I wouldn't fill them but make up a metal ring to cover them and sandwich that in or weld on top (weld it on from behind via the holes).
Have you tried the cover on?
I'd do that, would only need a couple of tacks per hole. PU will work but I wouldn't want to bet how long in that application. Have you tried the cover on?
Thanks for the replies. Welding sounds a non starter and I don't really want washers. I have found something ( actually a Cayenne / Touareg Propshaft CV Joint Boot )that looks like it may be adaptable. These are the correct 94mm size and look like they have enough lip on them to crimp down in place on the CV joint. There'a possibility the boot already fixed inside may direct fit onto the driveshaft , or failing that trimming a little of and adding a lip and possible putting on a rubber boot and making it look original.
The metal spinning mentioned looks a great idea. Shame I don't have a lathe or would actually love to just try doing that.

The metal spinning mentioned looks a great idea. Shame I don't have a lathe or would actually love to just try doing that.
Edited by Mr_B on Monday 29th February 00:23
Mr.B,
Look for a local 'metal spinner'.
They'll make you new covers from a disc of whatever metal you want, and be very accurate about it.
OR, if you have a lathe, DiY!
The shape of the mandrel you would need could also be turned on the lathe, and is pretty simple:
See:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOBxmGZR3j0&eb...
This guy makes intake trumpets on a wood lathe!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7QB0-AlwtI&eb...
JOhn
Look for a local 'metal spinner'.
They'll make you new covers from a disc of whatever metal you want, and be very accurate about it.
OR, if you have a lathe, DiY!
The shape of the mandrel you would need could also be turned on the lathe, and is pretty simple:
See:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOBxmGZR3j0&eb...
This guy makes intake trumpets on a wood lathe!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7QB0-AlwtI&eb...
JOhn
I've bought one of the Porsche prop covers as I pictured. It's the correct 94mm size and the lip at the CV joint is exactly the same size, but doesn't had a very fine stepped lip which acts as the crimp lip.
The section where the CV boot would sit is too long and 10mm oversize next to the original part. It's obviously not problem to cut it a little, but will have to find someone with a bead rolled which should reduce it enough to get the original boots to fit and then flare a lip on the end to stop them coming off.
If I had a lathe I would give metal spinning a go. This guy make almost exactly what I'm after in seconds on a larger scale.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43N44ICyuEU
The section where the CV boot would sit is too long and 10mm oversize next to the original part. It's obviously not problem to cut it a little, but will have to find someone with a bead rolled which should reduce it enough to get the original boots to fit and then flare a lip on the end to stop them coming off.
If I had a lathe I would give metal spinning a go. This guy make almost exactly what I'm after in seconds on a larger scale.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43N44ICyuEU
Give it a go - metal spinning looks easy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCtc5X0xaDE
But that's not REAL metal spinning! THIS is metal spinning! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFzxgSD4DRE
John
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCtc5X0xaDE
But that's not REAL metal spinning! THIS is metal spinning! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFzxgSD4DRE
John
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