Engine Stand with a Straight 6
Discussion
Applying force*distance I think you are taking a big chance there. I know just how crap the threads (and castings)are on these TVR engines having had to helicoil just about every hole on an AJP. I would not be inclined to add any more weight. Maybe a couple of planks and a jack across the legs of the stand to add a bit of support?
I run a straight six, but a cast iron Triumph block.
Like you, despite the added strength of iron, it still weigh a lot, so I use an spare rear engine plate/gearbox adaptor.
Seven bolts attach that to the back of the block, so making the load on each nearly half that if I used the four stand bolts.
Which go into holes on the plate, which is only for this purpose, and made of steel, so no worries.
See the pic, of the block and plate on a winch - the four stand holes on the plate are obvious.
If a TVR engine doesn't have such a plate, then you could make up an adaptor from a sheet, drilling holes as required.
The Triumph block has a separate rear crank oil sea housing, so I enlarged the originally circular hole so that I could install the seal while the engine was still on the stand.
John
Edited by tapkaJohnD on Monday 23 January 22:59
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