Transmission Jack
Discussion
Managed so far in life without one and have done a few gearbox out ins, but now have to do my P38 Range Rover so don't fancy that with chocks and jacks and grunt....
I have a 4 post lift so that is fine but now looking at tranny jacks.
It seems most just have 4 unadjustable jaws. This looks like it would be about as useful as chocolate fireguard for anything heavy.
Any suggestion for a *cost effective* transmission jack that allows some adjustment to secure the gbox in the correct position.
Cheers,
Matt
I have a 4 post lift so that is fine but now looking at tranny jacks.
It seems most just have 4 unadjustable jaws. This looks like it would be about as useful as chocolate fireguard for anything heavy.
Any suggestion for a *cost effective* transmission jack that allows some adjustment to secure the gbox in the correct position.
Cheers,
Matt
If you want precise then it'll cost you in time and money:
Weigh the box and check it's in range of the jack.
Make up a frame from flat steel bar that bolts to the box, the dealers have them so there maybe a pic in a genuine wkshop manual or design your own.
Once you're done it will work like a dream, but you'll wonder wtf you spent two days making something you use once every 10yrs.
Or do what most general repair shops do: Two big blokes yank box off and drop it into the usual 4 pronged bunch of banana type, one holds it steady whilst other lowers it.
Most commercial 4 posters have tranny jacks included or as optional extra, they run backwards and forwards on rails, can you get one of those?
Weigh the box and check it's in range of the jack.
Make up a frame from flat steel bar that bolts to the box, the dealers have them so there maybe a pic in a genuine wkshop manual or design your own.
Once you're done it will work like a dream, but you'll wonder wtf you spent two days making something you use once every 10yrs.
Or do what most general repair shops do: Two big blokes yank box off and drop it into the usual 4 pronged bunch of banana type, one holds it steady whilst other lowers it.
Most commercial 4 posters have tranny jacks included or as optional extra, they run backwards and forwards on rails, can you get one of those?
Be an idea to have a look through the gearbox section of a genuine LR workshop manual - I think in your case that will be the RAVE CD which can either be bought or you MIGHT be able to find it for free on the internet.
I know that the one for mine - 1986 RRC - contains dimensions for making a gearbox cradle that bolts to the bottom of the box. Dimensions are given for both manual & autoboxes (mine's a ZF auto) so you can make up the appropriate one. A simple welding job.
Can then be attached to a suitable jack - mine was onto a Bradbury Jackette trolley jack - & means the assembly comes off safely.
I know that the one for mine - 1986 RRC - contains dimensions for making a gearbox cradle that bolts to the bottom of the box. Dimensions are given for both manual & autoboxes (mine's a ZF auto) so you can make up the appropriate one. A simple welding job.
Can then be attached to a suitable jack - mine was onto a Bradbury Jackette trolley jack - & means the assembly comes off safely.
I removed the same on my L322 Range Rover but with no 4 post lift. Dropped the box and transfer case together with just a couple of normal jacks by myself. Unlike with just a gearbox by itself, the transfer box at an angle to the gearbox makes it a right pain as the centre of gravity wants to twist it over to one side when freed off the mounts. With it about a foot from the ground it decided it didn't like being where it was and rolled off one of the jacks, luckily it had a soft landing, unluckily the soft landing was my body! No damage to the box or my body but not something I would want to repeat.
Save some grief and separate the transfer box off first, that's the component that makes the whole lot unstable. I separated them for putting it back in along with buying a basic transmission scissor jack. Man handling the last inch to align is not so much of an issue when have the jack taking 50% of the load.
As Adam32 says above, another option if you have a lift is to just stick it top of a tool box or platform that can take the weight and lower the vehicle on to it.
Save some grief and separate the transfer box off first, that's the component that makes the whole lot unstable. I separated them for putting it back in along with buying a basic transmission scissor jack. Man handling the last inch to align is not so much of an issue when have the jack taking 50% of the load.
As Adam32 says above, another option if you have a lift is to just stick it top of a tool box or platform that can take the weight and lower the vehicle on to it.
The transfer box being offset is common to Land Rovers.
When refitting it's well worth having a couple of lengths of threaded rod to hand which you can screw into the back of the engine. You can then raise the box, align the appropriate holes onto the bits of rod & use them as guides. Makes it much easier & reduces the risk of a slip.
Once the box is fully seated & you've got a couple of bolts in just remove them & fit the bolts.
Bear in mind with the autobox that the torque converter is free to move & can fall off the front of the box. It's VERY heavy and contains a LOT of fluid. Guess how I know.
When refitting the torque converter MUST be seated to the correct depth on the gearbox, do not bolt to the back of the engine - measured from a straightedge across the bellhousing to one of the threaded lugs.
If not the lugs on the gearbox side of the TC won't have engaged with the gearbox pump & whilst it may well all bolt up it will break the pump. No pump = no pressure = no drive & it all has to come off again.
When refitting it's well worth having a couple of lengths of threaded rod to hand which you can screw into the back of the engine. You can then raise the box, align the appropriate holes onto the bits of rod & use them as guides. Makes it much easier & reduces the risk of a slip.
Once the box is fully seated & you've got a couple of bolts in just remove them & fit the bolts.
Bear in mind with the autobox that the torque converter is free to move & can fall off the front of the box. It's VERY heavy and contains a LOT of fluid. Guess how I know.
When refitting the torque converter MUST be seated to the correct depth on the gearbox, do not bolt to the back of the engine - measured from a straightedge across the bellhousing to one of the threaded lugs.
If not the lugs on the gearbox side of the TC won't have engaged with the gearbox pump & whilst it may well all bolt up it will break the pump. No pump = no pressure = no drive & it all has to come off again.
I have the older version of this one I dont have the luxury of a ramp just an old skol pit
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ctj30-300kg...
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ctj30-300kg...
jeremyh1 said:
I have the older version of this one I dont have the luxury of a ramp just an old skol pit
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ctj30-300kg...
Have the castors come loose and fallen apart or the black knob you twist to let it down broken off yet?https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ctj30-300kg...
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