Help Please with Mondeo Tdci 2l
Discussion
Hi,
I have a Mondeo TDCI 06 plate with 64k miles.
I have recently had a whole new Dual Mass Fly Wheel installed and new starter motor. The vehicle was working fine but then started throwing out thick black smoke and loss of power, also a loud rushing of noise air on acceleration.
I was advised to check the INTERCOOLER Pipe and found a tear in it and oil had sprayed around the front engine bay, so, with much effort I have today changed this. I disconnected the Metal Unit above it to gain easier access. I believe this unit is the EGR Valve?? This EGR inside was full of very thick crystallised oil so I cleaned the inside of the whole.
Anyway I noticed that one of the Two screws that connected the EGR Valve was snapped and therefore could only tighten one of the upper horizontal screws but I think it has left a very small gap between the EGR and what it connects to.
I took the car for a test run and it felt fine initially, power returned, however, a large amount of black crystallised oil was spat out of the exhaust and the car struggled to get above 50. I noticed that the wooshing noise was even more apparent when I hit 40 plus MPH then a coil shaped light started to flash on the dashboard and power decreases. I turned the engine off and back on and the light was off again???
Can anyone advise me please, would a sheered screw in the EGR which prevents it from fitting totally flush be causing this loss of power, whooshing noise and the light to activate??
Need my car in 3 days time for a holiday with kids and I can't get it in to local garage!
Any help, videos or pictures that are relative and for a non mechanic would be greatly appreciated!
I have a Mondeo TDCI 06 plate with 64k miles.
I have recently had a whole new Dual Mass Fly Wheel installed and new starter motor. The vehicle was working fine but then started throwing out thick black smoke and loss of power, also a loud rushing of noise air on acceleration.
I was advised to check the INTERCOOLER Pipe and found a tear in it and oil had sprayed around the front engine bay, so, with much effort I have today changed this. I disconnected the Metal Unit above it to gain easier access. I believe this unit is the EGR Valve?? This EGR inside was full of very thick crystallised oil so I cleaned the inside of the whole.
Anyway I noticed that one of the Two screws that connected the EGR Valve was snapped and therefore could only tighten one of the upper horizontal screws but I think it has left a very small gap between the EGR and what it connects to.
I took the car for a test run and it felt fine initially, power returned, however, a large amount of black crystallised oil was spat out of the exhaust and the car struggled to get above 50. I noticed that the wooshing noise was even more apparent when I hit 40 plus MPH then a coil shaped light started to flash on the dashboard and power decreases. I turned the engine off and back on and the light was off again???
Can anyone advise me please, would a sheered screw in the EGR which prevents it from fitting totally flush be causing this loss of power, whooshing noise and the light to activate??
Need my car in 3 days time for a holiday with kids and I can't get it in to local garage!
Any help, videos or pictures that are relative and for a non mechanic would be greatly appreciated!
Induction path on the mk.3 TD Mondeo is: fresh air sucked in just behind nearside headlight, into air cleaner (nearside, mid engine bay), and into the cold (induction) side of the turbo (rear of engine bay, centre). Between the air cleaner and the turbo, the crankcase breather pipe is connected.
Hot, pressurised air (with some oil mist in it, especially if it's been idling/driven slowly for a while) travels through a long hose to the offside end of the intercooler, through the intercooler an out into another hose, and (slightly) cooler air (mixed with some exhaust gas via the EGR valve) is forced into the inlet manifold. Everything downstream of the turbo (including the intercooler) is prone to oil buld up, and everything downstream of the point where that oily air meats the soot in the EGR valve (including the valve body itself,and the inlet manifold) is prone to black, sticky oil deposits.
Given the age of your car I would expect it to be EURO 4 emissions spec - the practical upshot of which is that not only does it have to have an EGR valve, the sensor on the EGR has to sense that the valve is being opened, and the expected change in pressure (or maybe flow, I don't know) is seen - if not, a fault code is recorded and the "Coil" lamp (aka EML - Engine management light , or check engine light) flags the fault.
So yes - what's already been posted (just with more preamble) - you are losing pressure/boost (and therefore performance) through the gap between the EGR valve and its pipework, and yes, the EML is coming on due to not sensing expected change(s) due to the EGR valve opening.
I don't know if you'll actually _damage_ the car by driving as is, but the performance will be dire, it'll be overfuelling badly, and there will be hot, sometimes oily air (and sometimes including exhaust gas) air in an unexpected place in the engine bay - so there's some potential risk of damage to the environment, and you/your passengers from CO poisoning, or failing to overtake a truck (for example) that would normally be no issue. TBH now I've thought of it, _don't_ drive it as is.
Looking at replacement, there are non-OE, new replacements for 30 quid, posted, supposedly arriving Wednesday - i'd fancy my chances with that more than trying to extract the remains of the screw from the existing unit. I don't think an OE one from a scrappy would be much cheaper, and would probably have the same issues you've found already.
Hot, pressurised air (with some oil mist in it, especially if it's been idling/driven slowly for a while) travels through a long hose to the offside end of the intercooler, through the intercooler an out into another hose, and (slightly) cooler air (mixed with some exhaust gas via the EGR valve) is forced into the inlet manifold. Everything downstream of the turbo (including the intercooler) is prone to oil buld up, and everything downstream of the point where that oily air meats the soot in the EGR valve (including the valve body itself,and the inlet manifold) is prone to black, sticky oil deposits.
Given the age of your car I would expect it to be EURO 4 emissions spec - the practical upshot of which is that not only does it have to have an EGR valve, the sensor on the EGR has to sense that the valve is being opened, and the expected change in pressure (or maybe flow, I don't know) is seen - if not, a fault code is recorded and the "Coil" lamp (aka EML - Engine management light , or check engine light) flags the fault.
So yes - what's already been posted (just with more preamble) - you are losing pressure/boost (and therefore performance) through the gap between the EGR valve and its pipework, and yes, the EML is coming on due to not sensing expected change(s) due to the EGR valve opening.
I don't know if you'll actually _damage_ the car by driving as is, but the performance will be dire, it'll be overfuelling badly, and there will be hot, sometimes oily air (and sometimes including exhaust gas) air in an unexpected place in the engine bay - so there's some potential risk of damage to the environment, and you/your passengers from CO poisoning, or failing to overtake a truck (for example) that would normally be no issue. TBH now I've thought of it, _don't_ drive it as is.
Looking at replacement, there are non-OE, new replacements for 30 quid, posted, supposedly arriving Wednesday - i'd fancy my chances with that more than trying to extract the remains of the screw from the existing unit. I don't think an OE one from a scrappy would be much cheaper, and would probably have the same issues you've found already.
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