Snapped Stud Help
Discussion
Hi all, I was hoping someone would have a clever suggestion/know of a tool to help in this situation...
I am stripping down a Jaguar 3.0 V6, and one of the exhaust manifold studs was snapped (some time ago by the rust). There is a reasonable amount of stud sticking out, but a little shelf in the engine block stops the two types of stud extractor I have getting in there. As all the others came out without drama with my impact gun, I think if I could get a tool on there it would spin out.
A picture of the issue:
IMG_20180627_091406 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Does anyone have an idea what could be used on this please?
Any help appreciated.
I am stripping down a Jaguar 3.0 V6, and one of the exhaust manifold studs was snapped (some time ago by the rust). There is a reasonable amount of stud sticking out, but a little shelf in the engine block stops the two types of stud extractor I have getting in there. As all the others came out without drama with my impact gun, I think if I could get a tool on there it would spin out.
A picture of the issue:
IMG_20180627_091406 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrDoes anyone have an idea what could be used on this please?
Any help appreciated.
If it were me I would be using impact on the end via application of 'ammer at the same time as heat with care.
After that, which should "break" the hold of any rust on the internal threads.
Then my tool of choice would be water pump (or slip joint pliers) with nice sharp teeth as they "tighten up" (stilsons style) when torque is applied.
When it moves "rock" it in & out until it frees up properly.
As soon as it is moving get some proper penetrating fluid on it (not WD40 as it is sh!t) try either diesel or 3 in 1 in the absence of anything more suitable like ATF/Acetone mix.
Don't forget when you have them all out get a tap into the threads for all holes & make sure it doesn't happen again, just remember "it could be you undoing it again next time" as an old mechie once told me.
After that, which should "break" the hold of any rust on the internal threads.
Then my tool of choice would be water pump (or slip joint pliers) with nice sharp teeth as they "tighten up" (stilsons style) when torque is applied.
When it moves "rock" it in & out until it frees up properly.
As soon as it is moving get some proper penetrating fluid on it (not WD40 as it is sh!t) try either diesel or 3 in 1 in the absence of anything more suitable like ATF/Acetone mix.
Don't forget when you have them all out get a tap into the threads for all holes & make sure it doesn't happen again, just remember "it could be you undoing it again next time" as an old mechie once told me.
I would weld a nut to the end of that, the resulting heat from the welding and judicious use of WD40 (or your penetrant of choice) before and after usually shocks it in to letting go. If the welding a nut to it didn't work I'd get some water pump grips on it. Worst case is it snaps off level with the head, I have had some success drilling them out and tapping to the same thread, so long as you trust your drilling ability. 
Engine is out so you have plenty of access with a welding set. Have fun! I'd relish the challenge myself. Have saved worse!
Engine is out so you have plenty of access with a welding set. Have fun! I'd relish the challenge myself. Have saved worse!
I would heat the stub to bright red heat ,taking care not to melt it, allow to cool, hit with hammer to jar threads,repeat a couple of times. Vice grips used next, water pump pliers are next to useless for this type of job IME .
The theory, which often works in practice , is that the heat expands the stud and hence the alloy.
The "nut welded on the end "method can be used if the vice grips fails.
HTH.
The theory, which often works in practice , is that the heat expands the stud and hence the alloy.
The "nut welded on the end "method can be used if the vice grips fails.
HTH.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
I do have a welder (a Clarke 130EN), but absolutely no experience with it. I bought it to practice over the summer, then ended up doing up an MX5!
What would be the best technique? I was thinking get an M8 nut, grind the end of the stud clean and try and wind the nut on until it sits slightly proud. Then pool some weld in there.
Does that sound reasonable? And does anyone have a similar welder to give me some rough settings to try?
Thanks
I do have a welder (a Clarke 130EN), but absolutely no experience with it. I bought it to practice over the summer, then ended up doing up an MX5!
What would be the best technique? I was thinking get an M8 nut, grind the end of the stud clean and try and wind the nut on until it sits slightly proud. Then pool some weld in there.
Does that sound reasonable? And does anyone have a similar welder to give me some rough settings to try?
Thanks
Lewis's Friend said:
Thanks for the feedback guys.
I do have a welder (a Clarke 130EN), but absolutely no experience with it. I bought it to practice over the summer, then ended up doing up an MX5!
What would be the best technique? I was thinking get an M8 nut, grind the end of the stud clean and try and wind the nut on until it sits slightly proud. Then pool some weld in there.
Does that sound reasonable? And does anyone have a similar welder to give me some rough settings to try?
Thanks
If you're not confident with welding, but you can get a nut onto the thread, could you put two on, and then get a spanner on the lower one, using the top nut as a lock?I do have a welder (a Clarke 130EN), but absolutely no experience with it. I bought it to practice over the summer, then ended up doing up an MX5!
What would be the best technique? I was thinking get an M8 nut, grind the end of the stud clean and try and wind the nut on until it sits slightly proud. Then pool some weld in there.
Does that sound reasonable? And does anyone have a similar welder to give me some rough settings to try?
Thanks
Doofus said:
I'm well aware of that, but if the OP can't weld, then it won't work, will it?
A welder isn't the only tool for applying heat.
He could use an induction heater but I doubt he has one of them. The average blow lamp is a bit feeble when you have a stud screwed into a huge lump of aluminium.A welder isn't the only tool for applying heat.
It's hardly rocket science to weld a nut on the end anyhow. Clean up the end, use maximum current on the welder and blast away. It doesn't need to be neat, you just want to dump in as much heat as possible.
The big problem you have with welding a nut onto that stud is that to get any meaningful penetration (OOOERRR MISSUS!) you need to get back to good bright clean metal & by the time you have done that on that stud you will have ground it all off!
But people seem to like the method so I kept the feck quiet!
I have told you how I would attack it at the top, in my experience looking at that stud if there is any other way that will work it is grinding the stud flat, drilling it out & re-tapping the thread.
But people seem to like the method so I kept the feck quiet!
I have told you how I would attack it at the top, in my experience looking at that stud if there is any other way that will work it is grinding the stud flat, drilling it out & re-tapping the thread.
Some heat via one of these...
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bolt-Buster-Heat-Induct...
Coupled with one of these, or some mole/vise grips...
https://m.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-Pack-Bolt...
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bolt-Buster-Heat-Induct...
Coupled with one of these, or some mole/vise grips...
https://m.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-Pack-Bolt...
Map gas blowlamp and one of these... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BGS-Tools-Stud-Extracto...
Both of these will see a lot of action, so a VERY worthwhile investment
Take one of your old socket sets and select the socket which doesn't quite slide over the stud.
Hammer the socket down onto the stud.
Attach impact driver to socket with variety of reducers/adaptors if required.
Impact away!
If socket starts to slip, select next smallest socket and hammer that the f
k over the stud and repeat above.
Hammer the socket down onto the stud.
Attach impact driver to socket with variety of reducers/adaptors if required.
Impact away!
If socket starts to slip, select next smallest socket and hammer that the f
k over the stud and repeat above. freddytin said:
Map gas blowlamp and one of these... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BGS-Tools-Stud-Extracto...
Both of these will see a lot of action, so a VERY worthwhile investment
Maybe I've just been fortunate....
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