Removing Suspension Top Nut With Stripped Hex Key Hole

[TigerThomas]

I've just had to remove the nut from the top of a shock absorber to change the spring.

Snag was the hex recess was rusted and stripped straight out under pressure.

Is there any way to lock the damper stem whilst you hit it with an impact wrench.

The only way I can think of currently is to grind a couple of spanner flats on the very top of the stem where the bump stop normally sits so it won't wreck the seals.

In this case I ended up standing on a pair of pump pliers on the stem and using the impact gun.

Looking for a better solution for next time.

Thanks, Thomas

[HustleRussell]

Have you tried refitting the wheel, lowering the car onto its tyres and then impact gunning it? I find that with the tyre on the ground there is no need to prevent the damper stem turning.

[TooMany2cvs]

TigerThomas said:

Is there any way to lock the damper stem whilst you hit it with an impact wrench.

Just give it a crack with the rattlegun - it'll probably come apart even without the stem held.

[Higgs boson]

TooMany2cvs said:

Just give it a crack with the rattlegun - it'll probably come apart even without the stem held.

This ^^^.
Or the rounded-jawed vise grips work, too.

[SlimJim16v]

HustleRussell said:

Have you tried refitting the wheel, lowering the car onto its tyres and then impact gunning it? I find that with the tyre on the ground there is no need to prevent the damper stem turning.

Yes, I always loosen mine this way before taking the strut off.
Another lesson learnt the hard way.

[TigerThomas]

Higgs boson said:

This ^^^.
Or the rounded-jawed vise grips work, too.

This one was really stuck on, still spinning with my full weight on the pump pliers.

I do need to get a larger pair of locking grips. I've only got a 6" long nose set in the tool box at the moment.

[TigerThomas]

SlimJim16v said:

HustleRussell said:

Have you tried refitting the wheel, lowering the car onto its tyres and then impact gunning it? I find that with the tyre on the ground there is no need to prevent the damper stem turning.

Yes, I always loosen mine this way before taking the strut off.
Another lesson learnt the hard way.

I did this when refitting the strut and the damn thing was still trying to spin. Even having had half a can of WD40 on it earlier trying to loose it.

Looks like the way forward is a sturdy pair of big locking grips.

Thanks everyone.

[HustleRussell]

How powerful is your impact gun? a 12v one for spinning wheel bolts in and out probably isn't going to do it, for instance.

[InitialDave]

We had this on a mate's Honda last week, it was very stuck on there.

We used a grinder and a dremel with a cutting disc (tight access as it's recessed) and just cut through the nut, nothing else was working.

Welding the hex into the top of the shaft can work too, but we were at his place and he doesn't have one.

[geeks]

Stud extractors have helped in the past with this but it's a one time thing, you should really send the damper off (or replace depending on cost) to have the tube replaced so that next time that doesn't happen, a dab of grease into the hex or a suitable cover the first time you fit it should keep it from rusting up in the future

[TigerThomas]

HustleRussell said:

How powerful is your impact gun? a 12v one for spinning wheel bolts in and out probably isn't going to do it, for instance.

Its a Dewalt XR 18V, 900ish NM of torque. Plenty powerful. :-)

[TigerThomas]

InitialDave said:

We had this on a mate's Honda last week, it was very stuck on there.

We used a grinder and a dremel with a cutting disc (tight access as it's recessed) and just cut through the nut, nothing else was working.

Welding the hex into the top of the shaft can work too, but we were at his place and he doesn't have one.

Yh if this hadn't worked the dremel and a chisel would have been the last resort.

[TigerThomas]

geeks said:

Stud extractors have helped in the past with this but it's a one time thing, you should really send the damper off (or replace depending on cost) to have the tube replaced so that next time that doesn't happen, a dab of grease into the hex or a suitable cover the first time you fit it should keep it from rusting up in the future

This was my mother in laws ford fusion, had been on there for 8 years. Totally agree with these and drop links filling the hex with grease is a must.

[Krikkit]

For those saying put the car back on the floor I've never had this work! Maybe it's just bad luck, but the damper rod has always spun anyway.

[mistergrumpy]

I've just been doing this job myself. I put them back on the car and out the weight on them and then soaked with WD40 and started trying to unscrew and screw the nuts with a large breaker bar. This seemed to eventually crack them a bit and then I used a hex key and ring spanner.
Have you tried hammering in a slightly oversized torx bit into the hex opening? This has always helped me in the past.