Alloy Wheels for my Peugeot 308 - any German Mechanics?
Discussion
This is my first post here, so apologies if it is long winded.
I am a confused about alloys, and have spent a few weeks trying to understand what I can buy, and what will fit. Basically i'd like my winter tyres to be mounted, and I can do the swap myself when required.
Please can somebody give me a few pointers - and even better if they understand german aswell as tyres!!
- My current wheels are 18inch OEM (9806253277) ET48, 8Jx18, 5x108 PCD
- And the car is a 2016 250BHP 308 GTi (L)
- I've been looking at Speedline SL2 Marmora - also 8x18 5x108, 76CH ( got sprigots ) but ET45 [ actually pretty much hovering over buy ]
What's confusing me is the TUV certificate
- Is TUV Certification required - if I fit alloys without do I lose my insurance?
- https://cdn.tiresleader.com/static/img/auto/certif...
- What do the notes mean "A01) bis A10) BF2) EB1) EF0) K16) K18)" - my wife, who is german, can not even make heads of tails of them. Does K16 and 18 mean I need to do some bodywork for the 3mm difference in ET?
K16) An Achse 2 sind die Radhausausschnittkanten von Stoßfängeroberkante bis zum Schweller
komplett umzulegen.
K18) An Achse 2 ist die ins Radhaus ragende Kante des Stoßfängers entsprechend der
umgelegten Radhauskante zu kürzen.
I am a confused about alloys, and have spent a few weeks trying to understand what I can buy, and what will fit. Basically i'd like my winter tyres to be mounted, and I can do the swap myself when required.
Please can somebody give me a few pointers - and even better if they understand german aswell as tyres!!
- My current wheels are 18inch OEM (9806253277) ET48, 8Jx18, 5x108 PCD
- And the car is a 2016 250BHP 308 GTi (L)
- I've been looking at Speedline SL2 Marmora - also 8x18 5x108, 76CH ( got sprigots ) but ET45 [ actually pretty much hovering over buy ]
What's confusing me is the TUV certificate
- Is TUV Certification required - if I fit alloys without do I lose my insurance?
- https://cdn.tiresleader.com/static/img/auto/certif...
- What do the notes mean "A01) bis A10) BF2) EB1) EF0) K16) K18)" - my wife, who is german, can not even make heads of tails of them. Does K16 and 18 mean I need to do some bodywork for the 3mm difference in ET?
K16) An Achse 2 sind die Radhausausschnittkanten von Stoßfängeroberkante bis zum Schweller
komplett umzulegen.
K18) An Achse 2 ist die ins Radhaus ragende Kante des Stoßfängers entsprechend der
umgelegten Radhauskante zu kürzen.
AndrewEH1 said:
My first suggestion would be contact your local Peugeot dealer and my another set of original alloys, or perhaps on eBay.
These presumably would be covered under local laws and insurance as they are the exact same wheels?
I've looked at Peugeot OEM parts - best i've found is around £400 a wheel, so £1.6k a set - was hoping to add originality to my car and to in the long term save a little money. Do you understand the TUV recommendations? or if ET48 to ET45 can really cause any problems?These presumably would be covered under local laws and insurance as they are the exact same wheels?
aar5 said:
if ET48 to ET45 can really cause any problems?
That's just a 3mm difference which is extremely unlikely to cause any issues. Does the wheel or tyre come within 3mm of the bodywork or suspension when you move it through the full range of suspension and steering positions? I wouldn't expect it to, for a production car.The notes mean that:
A0/A2: You should fit tyres appropriate to the model as specified in the handbook
BF2: You should use M12x1.25x28mm 60° tapered bolts to a torque of 110Nm
EB1: Not compatible with the 380mm brake option
K16/K18: The resulting wheels shouldn't protrude beyond the bodywork.
It worries me that you and your other half couldn't work that out!
A0/A2: You should fit tyres appropriate to the model as specified in the handbook
BF2: You should use M12x1.25x28mm 60° tapered bolts to a torque of 110Nm
EB1: Not compatible with the 380mm brake option
K16/K18: The resulting wheels shouldn't protrude beyond the bodywork.
It worries me that you and your other half couldn't work that out!

GreenV8S said:
That's just a 3mm difference which is extremely unlikely to cause any issues. Does the wheel or tyre come within 3mm of the bodywork or suspension when you move it through the full range of suspension and steering positions? I wouldn't expect it to, for a production car.
Yes - more than, it actually comes standard with 19inch wheels (the last [ first owner ] went for a 18inch "additional" option as opposed to 19inch)Krikkit said:
The notes mean that:
A0/A2: You should fit tyres appropriate to the model as specified in the handbook
BF2: You should use M12x1.25x28mm 60° tapered bolts to a torque of 110Nm
EB1: Not compatible with the 380mm brake option
K16/K18: The resulting wheels shouldn't protrude beyond the bodywork.
It worries me that you and your other half couldn't work that out!
You are my hero. Thank you! A0/A2: You should fit tyres appropriate to the model as specified in the handbook
BF2: You should use M12x1.25x28mm 60° tapered bolts to a torque of 110Nm
EB1: Not compatible with the 380mm brake option
K16/K18: The resulting wheels shouldn't protrude beyond the bodywork.
It worries me that you and your other half couldn't work that out!

[ The 380mm brakes appear to be the Alcons (not on my lowely 250BHP), and my torque wench certainly has 110Nm ]
And yes, i'll be referring her to take a mechanics course in Germany next time she's over.
- proceeds to click the swap money for fun button*
If you look at online fitments for your car the wheels with 225 tyres use ET48 and with 235 tyres use ET45, presumably to obtain a slightly better match of tyre edge to wheelarch. I can't imagine anyone in here is going to be able to give you legal advice on what I assume is German motoring law so I suggest you ask your insurance company in advance. It looks like the TUV certificate is doing a lot of arse covering for worst case scenarios but provided the tyres are completely covered by the wheel arches I see no reason to do any bodywork mods. In the UK we generally fit narrower snow tyres than summer ones, often on narrower or even smaller diameter rims but maybe in Germany you are required to always use OE sizes.
Mignon said:
If you look at online fitments for your car the wheels with 225 tyres use ET48 and with 235 tyres use ET45, presumably to obtain a slightly better match of tyre edge to wheelarch. I can't imagine anyone in here is going to be able to give you legal advice on what I assume is German motoring law so I suggest you ask your insurance company in advance. It looks like the TUV certificate is doing a lot of arse covering for worst case scenarios but provided the tyres are completely covered by the wheel arches I see no reason to do any bodywork mods. In the UK we generally fit narrower snow tyres than summer ones, often on narrower or even smaller diameter rims but maybe in Germany you are required to always use OE sizes.
Mostly wanted to make sure there wasnt a obvious required body mod hidden in that TUV document / known (standard) issue that increasing offset by 3mm can cause a world of pain. Interesting point on the tyre's - went for 225/40's winters, maybe 235 would offset that 3mm somewhat in looks. Although as mentioned before, the car normally comes with 19inch as stock, so it already looks a bit different (doesnt align with top of arches)
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